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Old 04-07-2019, 03:51 AM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 31s
State: British Columbia
Posts: 28
THOR #13341
You should probly check this relay that I am dealing with... mine is in the battery compartment..

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Old 04-07-2019, 11:37 AM   #22
dfh
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
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THOR #10746
Same Here with a twist

I too replaced the 2 12v for 6 6v Trojans in my 2018 Windsport 34J. My twist is that the house power will not engage. Without that, the leveling jacks will not extend, indicate low voltage even though the engine is running and the batteries will not charge. Can't seem to isolate a cause. Of course the warranty ran out 2 months ago.
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Old 04-07-2019, 01:46 PM   #23
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Model: Windsport 31s
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THOR #13341
Again, sounds like the same relay...
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Old 04-07-2019, 01:58 PM   #24
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
Posts: 1,410
THOR #2631
Well, I think this one is different because the description is no jack power and sounds like no house power from coach batteries either....if I understand that right. Assuming the coach batteries are charged it could be a variety of things such as : bad coach latching relay; tripped 50 amp DC breaker between the converter (DC battery charger) and the coach batteries; loose power cabling connectors etc.



I assume when on shore power the house power works (Lights etc), but no jacks and probably no charging of the coach batteries.....plus I would wager the generator won't crank either? The jacks and generator DC power from coach batteries not chassis batteries typically.



So depending on how your coach is wired there may be a 100 amp DC breaker mounted near the coach batteries that has tripped (my ACE has this). In my case the coach battery power goes through this 100 amp breaker first before powering anything else in the coach. Sometimes this breaker is configured slightly differently....but it is worth finding this 100 Amp breaker first and make sure its not tripped. Attaching a text/picture of what is used in my coach for reference.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Main Battery Breaker.doc (285.0 KB, 93 views)
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Old 04-12-2019, 04:06 PM   #25
Ron
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31D
State: California
Posts: 112
THOR #1675
This is a topic that has caused me much thought and work.

When we purchased our Thor Hurricane 31H, I went to pick it up and it had a dead battery. The dealer (Camping World in Sacramento) replaced the battery and sent me on my way. Only 5 miles down the Interstate, the instrument lights started to flicker followed by the engine shutting off. When the instrument lights started to flicker, luckily, I got into the right-hand lane as a precaution and when the engine quit, I was able to coast off the Interstate without much of an incident except the Highway Patrol stopped and informed me that I can’t camp on the side of the road.

I called Camping world, and to their credit, a technician quickly came out and was knowledgeable enough to realize what was going on.

The end result was the Chassis disconnect relay had failed (probably a long time ago) and the chassis battery was not charging. The weird thing is that in this system, the engine electronics are connected to the battery side of the disconnect so the alternator will not run the engine electronics. They probably do this to protect the electronics from voltage spikes since the battery acts as a buffer. The problem is that once the battery voltage gets too low, the engine quits and leaves you with no power steering and rapidly deaccelerating.

On this coach, all the disconnects are located in a centralized Battery Control Center (BCC) and the fix was to move the Top right wire from the alternator (see photo below) over to the Top left lug (to the Chassis battery) effectively bypassing the Chassis disconnect relay. Later, after reading other posts about this, I put the wires back to where they should be and installed a jumper wire. Of course I insulated it after the photo was taken.

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After replacing the defective solenoid, I later installed a manual switch on that same jumper wire effectively making a manual bypass for that disconnect relay (peace of mind for me).



Since then, I have modified this system numerous times. Here are the solenoids in question. The top left is the interconnect (emergency start) relay (see photo below). It is a typical RV type relay designed for continuous use. Unlike a Ford start relay, it has two small terminals for the controlling switch. The Ford start relay has only one small terminal and is grounded through the car frame. The Ford relay is also NOT rated for continuous use. The RV specific ones are rated for continuous use. It requires power to hold this relay closed.

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The other two relays are the “Latching” type which means they require power to change from open to closed and vice versa but don’t require power to hold them in either state. This requires a double throw momentary switch to control them rather than a single throw momentary switch like the interconnect relay. The latching solenoid types are better for continuous use since the latching coil doesn’t heat up with time like the simpler interconnect relay will.


Anyway, I decided that relying on a relay for my safety while driving down the highway is not a good feeling, I decided to change things a little. To make a long story endless…I installed manual bypass switches on both disconnect relays and another manual switch on the coach battery for storage purposes (*but still left a provision for charging the coach battery while in storage*).

Here’s my schematic of the new system.

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I would suggest for everyone to install bypass switches for both disconnect switches. If everything works correctly, you will never use them. But if a disconnect fails, a bypass will at least save your trip and possibly save your life if one fails, like mine, while on an Interstate highway during commute traffic.

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This switch or one like it and a couple short battery cables from the auto store doesn't cost much. If you can find a red cable, it is better.

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Part of my pre-trip checklist is to close the manual bypass switch to ensure my alternator is charging the chassis battery. After the trip (or if we are parked for a while) I open the switch and let the solenoid do it's job. It may be overkill but having my coach quit while driving on an Interstate is a scary thing! I also made a battery control panel for the cockpit where I can monitor and control my batteries and the disconnect relays. No sense in waiting until you stop to check the batteries. I monitor them while I'm driving and the engine is on.
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Old 04-12-2019, 06:18 PM   #26
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
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THOR #2631
Hi Ron, there was a recall by Thor in 2013 that corrected the possible failure of the chassis battery disconnect relay on certain coaches that used the RV Custom Products BCC (battery Control Center). I think this affected many coaches including Hurricanes from 2007 to 2013. You should check the NHTCA website for your coach to make sure you have all recalls checked out but I think the BCC mod is one that probably fixes your situation just by moving a power cable externally on the BCC if I remember correctly. Attaching a link from another forum on the subject FYI:


Thor Battery Control Center Failure Recall - iRV2 Forums
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:08 PM   #27
Ron
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31D
State: California
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THOR #1675
Quote:
Originally Posted by javelin View Post
Hi Ron, there was a recall by Thor in 2013 that corrected the possible failure of the chassis battery disconnect relay on certain coaches that used the RV Custom Products BCC (battery Control Center). I think this affected many coaches including Hurricanes from 2007 to 2013:

Thor Battery Control Center Failure Recall - iRV2 Forums
Thanks javelin! I should have mentioned that the original technician that came out from Camping World performed the recall by switching the alternator wire to the Chassis battery lug but this “fix” permanently bypasses the Chassis disconnect relay. I didn’t think that was a satisfactory solution.

My solution retains the functionality of the disconnect and at the same time provides the same safety of the recall. I also desired a little more control of battery charging and monitoring process.

I think it behoves the owners to really understand their DC generation system (as well as the AC side too) so that when something goes wrong they know what to do. The simplified schematic I drew of my system (see post above) is great for troubleshooting.
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:17 PM   #28
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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THOR #2631
It is good to understand your coach electrical systems for sure and being able to quickly bypass a failed latching relay easily and safely until a formal repair can be done, is a good alternative. Certainly less stressful than doing a campground repair in this BCC. I just carry a spare BCC cct board and latching relay…..and hope I never need to use either of them, since the BCC is a bear to access in my coach. In fact, I rarely turn the RV Custom latching relays off once the camping season starts…..but then I rarely boondock. The Thor recall direct connects the chassis battery to the Ford ignition/other systems, but still retains the chassis battery latching relay control of specific BCC loads, fused and powered off the chassis battery. Thanks for posting your alternative solution. It is always interesting to see what other RVers come up with.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:00 PM   #29
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State: Arizona
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THOR #13074
Anybody help with the correct 12 volt coach battery size for 2017 axis?
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:11 PM   #30
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Model: Travato
State: Florida
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THOR #1765
There’s no correct 12v battery size for the Axis. It is whatever you can get to fit in the battery box. I have two “29”s in mine. The next size “31’”s don’t fit.
Mine are Walmart “29”s. No guarantee that any 29 will fit. And you have to carefully “shoehorn” in the 29s.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:19 PM   #31
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Thank you for the quick reply[emoji106]
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:57 PM   #32
Ron
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31D
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THOR #1675
Quote:
Originally Posted by javelin View Post
I just carry a spare BCC cct board and latching relay…..and hope I never need to use either of them, since the BCC is a bear to access in my coach. In fact, I rarely turn the RV Custom latching relays off once the camping season starts…..
javelin...Did you do the recall?
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:52 PM   #33
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THOR #2631
Hi Ron, yes I did the recall myself. If I remember correctly it was basically disconnecting the Ford ignition cable from the BCC chassis switched terminal and moving it to the chassis battery terminal on the BCC. Attaching the BCC schematic for reference in case you (or others with this BCC) have not seen it.
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