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Old 09-30-2018, 12:36 AM   #1
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Do I Need 30A or 120v to Store RV

I'M building a shed for the RV. I don't have any power out to it but plan on running power. Will 120 v do the trick while in storage or do I need to bite the bullet and run 30A? Right now it's a cost thing.

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Old 09-30-2018, 12:45 AM   #2
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Depends on what you plan to do with the RV. If you're just storing it there then a simple 15A circuit will do. If you want to run the A/C to cool it down at some point then 30A is a necessity.

In addition: If you want to run either the refer on A/C (if you have the gas/AC RV type refer) and/or the water heater on A/C (if you have a gas/AC tank water heater) you'd be better off with a 30A circuit.

I would guess that if you put a 15A circuit in there will be some point that you'll wish you put a 30A circuit in. Thus you're better off going with a 30A circuit.

You'd even be better off going with full 50A circuit to really future proof the shed.
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:56 AM   #3
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Bite the bullet and go with 30A. Eventually you will be glad you did.
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:07 AM   #4
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You will need 120 VAC period.

Your question is doe you want to run wire for and a 15 Amp plug, a 20 Amp plug or a 30 Amp plug.

As Other have said, wire for a 30 Amp plug.
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:14 AM   #5
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I have always been happy with my unit plugged into a 20amp plug. The frig could stay on and the batteries stay charged. Then I had the chance to wire to a 30 amp plug and boy was I a happy camper. It was so nice to be able to turn the ac on and cool the unit off before a trip. Just that factor was worth it.
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:33 PM   #6
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20amp will do fine for your battery charger, and even the fridge and other 120v outlets should you need to use them...15amp also, just less amps, but the cost is probably identical.
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:20 PM   #7
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If your RV is 30 amps, it is still 120volts too.
#10 guage wire, using a 30 amp single pole breaker and 30amp single pole receptacle. Lowe's etc. stock the RV outdoor outlets. If you look online you can get one with a breaker slot next to the outlet, just like the campgrounds have. (We're suppose to shut the power off before plugging or unplugging).
The expensive part is the underground cable, assuming the shed is detached from your home.
The underground/outdoor UF cable is twice the price of indoor cable.
I found lengths of UF cable for sale on EBay for way less the the big box stores. Free shipping too. The only down side was waiting for it to arrive.
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:22 PM   #8
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I guess if I'm going to do it, I'll run 50 Amp and split it for a 20 Amp for shed outlets and lights and a 30 Amp plug for the RV. The RV is 50 Amp but reduced it to 30 Amp should work just fine for one A/C or just to keep the RV charged and ready. Your all right, run it now and do it right instead of rework later. This Forum sure cost me a lot of money...
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:17 PM   #9
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you can easily run an AC unit off a 20amp outlet, too....easy.
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Old 09-30-2018, 11:51 PM   #10
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You can "get by" with a 20 amp connection...
But for just a little extra cash...

Pop for the 30 amp setup, and you'll never have to second-guess the choice you make.
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Old 10-01-2018, 12:14 AM   #11
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Go with the 30 amp fo sho u may need to stay in it one day as we did our ac in our house went out late one evening instead of paying the ot rate we fired up rv and waited till next day for repair
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:41 PM   #12
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I would put in a regular panel, feed it with a 60 amp breaker. Yes I know a regular panel has a 100 amp main. That would still give you a disconnect for safety and if it’s a 60 amp circuit you don’t have to use such a heavy feed cable. Use aluminum in your feed as it’s much cheaper than copper, you just have to upsize the conductor. Remember a 50 amp circuit has 2 hots and a 30 just 1. I did my garage like that about 30 years ago, never regretted it that way.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:48 PM   #13
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As an "Insurance Guy": I'm a bit nervous about using aluminum wiring...
But if it's been working for you...
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Old 10-02-2018, 06:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
As an "Insurance Guy": I'm a bit nervous about using aluminum wiring...
But if it's been working for you...
I have aluminum wiring feeding my Bolt. 30 amps @ 240V. No problems at all.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:06 PM   #15
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Glad to hear it!
Back about 45 years ago: we lost some homes due to aluminum wiring...
It was enough of an issue; that some laws were passed to deal with it.
Having been through that: I just have some "opinions" about using aluminum for anything other than beer cans...
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:20 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Glad to hear it!

Back about 45 years ago: we lost some homes due to aluminum wiring...

It was enough of an issue; that some laws were passed to deal with it.

Having been through that: I just have some "opinions" about using aluminum for anything other than beer cans...


The 300,000 v high tension lines by my house are aluminum. All underground residential power here is aluminum. What is stuck in your mind is the aluminum residential in house wiring for 15 and 20 amp stuff that was “tried” decades ago. I have used a lot of aluminum for service drops to and from the meter box as have I’m sure thousands of others.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:42 PM   #17
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I never said that I was right: just that I had some reservations about it...
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:01 PM   #18
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I never said that I was right: just that I had some reservations about it...


Didn’t really say you were wrong either !
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:06 PM   #19
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WOW...you guys are too nice...just when I start placing my bets, you kiss and make up!! Bob actually told me you were wrong and didn't know squat about wiring!!
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:04 PM   #20
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Actually: I'm the one who barely knows which part of my tongue doesn't go in the light sockets... I prefer to be overly cautious!
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