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Old 08-14-2018, 11:24 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Quantum WS31
State: Washington
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Does this sound right to any of you people?

I got a progress report from the RV repair shop today. My rear slide motor is toast! And, after messing around trying to get the motor out all day today, the owners son & tech had to call Thor. Guess what?! They have to drill two (2) 3/4" holes in the exterior off the motorhome to gain access to the screw (1) that holds the motor in place! I'll know more tomorrow. I will go visit to see where these holes will be drilled. I am thinking about having plugs installed, rather than having the holes re-fiber glassed. More Thor brilliance!! DOH!! BTW, he had already been talking with Lippert about the issue.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:43 AM   #2
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Never heard of that. They replaced mine without having to do that, just like in the video. Peal back the slide seal and un do the screw.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:46 AM   #3
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
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THOR #8860
Wow! I'd hold out for some exterior replacements...
Good luck!
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:04 PM   #4
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I do believe the RV Shop was misinformed or misunderstood Thor the instructions. Have a look at this thread. It has a video of the process as well as the reference to the manual.
Help!! - Schwintek Slide Motor Replacement
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:14 PM   #5
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Thanks for responding, guys. I'll be at the shop first thing this morning to check this out.
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:27 PM   #6
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Good luck; please let us know what happens next!
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Good luck; please let us know what happens next!
Thanks Bob, I will.
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:07 PM   #8
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do NOT let them do this, Thor certainly did not advise them to - you should be putting your ‘shop’ down , for lack of experience, NOT Thor!

CampingWorld in TN tried to play this off on me, too, but I was able to do the replacement MYSELF, and NO silly drilling of holes involved!

pure bunk!
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:19 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
do NOT let them do this, Thor certainly did not advise them to - you should be putting your Ďshopí down , for lack of experience, NOT Thor!

CampingWorld in TN tried to play this off on me, too, but I was able to do the replacement MYSELF, and NO silly drilling of holes involved!

pure bunk!
Yikes!! Thank you! I'll be checking this out for sure! Our little town only has two independent repair shops. These guys consistently out perform the other.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:13 PM   #10
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State: Alabama
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I told them they were crazy, no HOLES should ever have to be drilled thru the outside of the coach/slide trim simply to access the motor set screw, yet they 'said' that's what would have to be done since they 'could not' get the slide out otherwise... hmmmmmm(?)

well, after I quickly left and arrived at our next destination, I found that you can easily pull the power from the motor(pull the motor harness from the controller box found in the bay below), allowing the slide to move by simply pushing it out from the inside.
Now I had easy access to the motor set screw near the top corner of the slide wall, under the rubber seal. After removal, the motor can then be easily lifted from the inside, within the top of the slide wall.
After replacing the motor, which Thor was nice enough to send me after hearing this 'horror' story, the slide has worked just fine since. I simply screwed the outside set screw back in and we were in fine shape. No CampingWorld involved!

Admittedly, though, CampingWorld in Byron(Macon) Georgia did a fine job with my main slide motor replacement 6 months before then. They simply did it the right way, by removing the power from the motor, and physically pushing out the slide far enough to get to the set screw. It's really something most owners can do themselves - no 'repair shop' needed.

Some repair shops know how to do this, some don't, apparently even within the same dealership brand.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:59 PM   #11
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I haven’t had any slide motor problems but since it seems like a fairly easy job is this one of the parts that’s worth carrying with you on the road. Heard enough stoties of people having them go out on the road. Yes it’s extra weight to carry and not a lot storage already but seems like good insurance to have.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
I told them they were crazy, no HOLES should ever have to be drilled thru the outside of the coach/slide trim simply to access the motor set screw, yet they 'said' that's what would have to be done since they 'could not' get the slide out otherwise... hmmmmmm(?)

well, after I quickly left and arrived at our next destination, I found that you can easily pull the power from the motor(pull the motor harness from the controller box found in the bay below), allowing the slide to move by simply pushing it out from the inside.
Now I had easy access to the motor set screw near the top corner of the slide wall, under the rubber seal. After removal, the motor can then be easily lifted from the inside, within the top of the slide wall.
After replacing the motor, which Thor was nice enough to send me after hearing this 'horror' story, the slide has worked just fine since. I simply screwed the outside set screw back in and we were in fine shape. No CampingWorld involved!

Admittedly, though, CampingWorld in Byron(Macon) Georgia did a fine job with my main slide motor replacement 6 months before then. They simply did it the right way, by removing the power from the motor, and physically pushing out the slide far enough to get to the set screw. It's really something most owners can do themselves - no 'repair shop' needed.

Some repair shops know how to do this, some don't, apparently even within the same dealership brand.
Thanks for all the info. I'll be heading to the shop in a few minutes.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Washington View Post
I havenít had any slide motor problems but since it seems like a fairly easy job is this one of the parts thatís worth carrying with you on the road. Heard enough stoties of people having them go out on the road. Yes itís extra weight to carry and not a lot storage already but seems like good insurance to have.
It certainly wouldn't hurt to have one. They look quite small, so wouldn't take that much space. It might be worthwhile to do a run through of changing one.
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:03 PM   #14
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Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
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THOR #8860
Were you able to call your Dealer, and get them to hold off on drilling the holes?
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:58 PM   #15
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OK...Everyone can breathe easy now. LOL The owners son told me "I didn't want to drill into a coach with "Custom" paint on it"! Meaning the tan gel coat. He told the guy from Thor he was nuts and would only do that as a last ditch effort. The hole would have been in the trim fascia that runs around the slide. Another tech said, "could they break the motor where it joins the gear box?" So, that is what he was able to do. The slide would not move (out) manually because the dead motor was holding it closed. The screw is on the outside of the coach, UNDER the trim fascia. Our guy asked the Thor tech, "so you have personally drilled this piece AND haven't made sure a design engineer changes this?!" There was silence on the other end of the line.
So, new front & rear motors will be installed by tomorrow. I will get the used front motor as a spare. Whew!
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:25 PM   #16
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 11,300
THOR #8860
Glad to hear that this story will have a Happy Ending after all!
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Old 08-15-2018, 11:38 PM   #17
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Quantum WS31
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YAY! Got the rig back just now. The slide sounds nice-an-smooth now. When we started the engine we had an alarm going off...Gee, imagine that! "Leveling jacks retract timeout". Huh... went inside to have the tech show me how to reset (couldn't find in our manual) But the good tech was gone for the day. (he comes in early to beat the heat) Soooo, I used the interweb to find out. Press & hold enter/retract at the same time for 3 seconds.
So, while sitting there we decided to do a "re-zero" of the leveling system. Here is a link to the procedure.
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...heets/0317.pdf
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