Dominic Refridgerator

[Jefvm]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Absorption units will "rock up" if abused by running it out of level for an extended period. Probably not your case if you are getting good cooling in the freezer.

I am curious on how an ammonia based absorption unit will or can rock up.
I work with 650 ton absorption units that are lithium bromide based and due to the salt base are known to rock up if the system loses power or are not shut down properly and other reasons.
But in a refrigerator that is ammonia based what is there to rock up.
I'm just curious where you come up with your assessment on the process for rocking up without the bromide base.
Now the manufacturer states on most RB type units not to run your refrigerator more than approximately 3 degrees out of level or it may not perform per design and or may not cool at all in some cases.
However there are reasons for that as well.

To the person with the problem
Good luck with your issue and refer. The wife and I had one catch on fire and cost 25k to fix our RV (no fun).
The new refer take about 3 or 4 days in the high desert at 110 plus degrees to cool down to proper levels however you can start putting food inside on day two.

Good luck and safe travels

[cavie]

Originally Posted by javelin

Somehow I missed this entry where you said the freezer was very cold.....so you can ignore my video entry about bypassing fridge controls (might be useful for those with no cooling at all). I wonder if you have a thermistor issue (usually the little temp sensing device clipped onto the fins in the fridge portion) as they do fail, but are relatively cheap to replace on Amazon. Also make sure your “test” thermometer is reading correctly by checking its readings in your house fridge.

I have recently learned that if the thermister goes bad the fridge section would go to MAX cold.

[javelin]

Originally Posted by Jefvm

I am curious on how an ammonia based absorption unit will or can rock up.
I work with 650 ton absorption units that are lithium bromide based and due to the salt base are known to rock up if the system loses power or are not shut down properly and other reasons.
But in a refrigerator that is ammonia based what is there to rock up.
I'm just curious where you come up with your assessment on the process for rocking up without the bromide base.
Now the manufacturer states on most RB type units not to run your refrigerator more than approximately 3 degrees out of level or it may not perform per design and or may not cool at all in some cases.
However there are reasons for that as well.

To the person with the problem
Good luck with your issue and refer. The wife and I had one catch on fire and cost 25k to fix our RV (no fun).
The new refer take about 3 or 4 days in the high desert at 110 plus degrees to cool down to proper levels however you can start putting food inside on day two.

Good luck and safe travels

Hi I am not sure what multi-chemical "mix" is used in the RV absorption fridge, but the attached link says when running "off level" the chemical mix can stop moving in the pipes and become overheated in the boiler section, which causes crystals to start forming. Not sure if this info is accurate, but being level (or within fridge manufacturer's spec for level) seems to still be important in the RV world.



RV Fridge Troubleshooting

[javelin]

Originally Posted by cavie

I have recently learned that if the thermister goes bad the fridge section would go to MAX cold.

Hi. I wonder if the “failure mode” of the thermistor makes a difference as to how the “otherwise working” fridge actually responds? Since the sensing thermistor resistance indicates to the control board if more or less cooling is required, related to the control panel set point, it could be possible that if the thermistor resistance age drifted out of “normal operating” range or even failed open perhaps, that the control board would not turn on either propane or the electric element at all. So if resistance went out of spec in a direction to call for more cooling, you would see full on cooling; and if the resistance went out of spec the opposite way, you would probably see no call for cooling at all.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Jefvm

I am curious on how an ammonia based absorption unit will or can rock up.

But in a refrigerator that is ammonia based what is there to rock up.
I'm just curious where you come up with your assessment on the process for rocking up without the bromide base.
Good luck and safe travels

The sodium chromate rust prevented is what causes the "rock-up".

[Mo_Mike]

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

Is the sun shining on the refrigerator wall.
Where the sun is shining will make a big differance in how your frig performs.

I just put new thermometers in my NORCOLD unit (wireless so I don't have to open to check) And SUN on the refer side DEFINITELY raises the temperature..

Dealing with 95 degrees ambient outside temp and 70 per cent humidity.

Before sun: FREEZER -1 F, REFER 34 F
Full sun on side: FREEZER 21 F, REFER 48 F
After Sun moves to back of coach: FREEZER 7 F, REFER 38 F

I had never actually taken the temperatures in coordination with direct sun..

(These were all on 120 electric)