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Old 09-23-2015, 08:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
I believe that the 23kWh battery in my EV weighs in at <800lbs for comparison.
That's good to know, and confirms such a generator-less system would be limited more by cost than weight.

A 4 kW generator and two lead-acid batteries (base case for comparison) will weigh just above 300 pounds. That same weight in lithium batteries would provide 8 to 10 kW-hours of capacity -- plenty for us.

Other than lithium battery cost, the only major hurdle to work out is being able to charge so much battery capacity off engine during the day. A second dedicated alternator would be great, but Ford doesn't offer that option as far as I know on the 6.8L V10.

Those who have built such a system did it on Sprinter chassis which have a second alternator option.

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Old 10-28-2015, 11:02 PM   #22
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is there a certain way to hook up two batteries so as not to overload the system
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:00 AM   #23
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is there a certain way to hook up two batteries so as not to overload the system
Two 12 Volt batteries must be hooked up in parallel (+ to + and - to -) so the output voltage is 12 VDC. Two six volt batteries must be hooked up in series (+ to - and - to +) so the output voltage is 12 VDC.

The Harris Battery Care and Maintenance Guide has a few diagrams on page 13. You can locate the guide at this link

Literature and Downloads | Harris Battery | Commercial - Industrial Battery Supplier
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:30 AM   #24
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Thanks dstankov, have copied diagram for correct wiring.
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:57 PM   #25
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We have the added draw of a residential fridge. I love the residential over the RV type fridge but it does require more electric. We currently have 2 group 27 batteries and I will see how they hold out. If necessary, I will put 2 6volt golf cart batteries where they 27's are located under the step. I will then put 2 or 4 more 6volt in the closest compartment, making sure there is adequate ventilation. We will probably okay with the 27's as we are not boondocking like we used to.

Fred
I just read your post and wonder how much current the residential type refrigerator draws? Until we were poking around an RV dealer yesterday I didn't realized that they put that type refrigerator in RVs.

I had an RV with four 6-volt golf cart batteries for the coach. I didn't find them to last very long before failing. And on a trip I hand difficulty finding replacements. So I replaced the four 6-volt batteries with three 12-volt deep cycle batteries and I think they worked better and lasted longer.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:46 PM   #26
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Metalman,

My Challenger has the Whirlpool residential refrigerator and according to the Thor Electrical diagram it draws 7.2 amps. The diagrams say the convection microwave draws 12.5 amps. Although the fridge is connected to the inverter the conv/micro is not.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:54 PM   #27
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Metalman,

My Challenger has the Whirlpool residential refrigerator and according to the Thor Electrical diagram it draws 7.2 amps. The diagrams say the convection microwave draws 12.5 amps. Although the fridge is connected to the inverter the conv/micro is not.
That's interesting. The power necessary to run the refrigerator works out to just less than 900 watts. I assume that's only when the compressor is running, which will vary according to the inside temperature, what's inside, and how many times the doors are opened.

If you can plug in a Kill-a-Watt meter between the receptacle and your refrigerator, you can determine the electrical use over a long period of time.

http://www.amazon.com/P3-Internation...+usage+monitor

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