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Old 10-14-2018, 10:08 PM   #1
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Fuel consumption mpg

Has anyone else experienced this? I was traveling anywhere from 60 to 65 miles an hour. The miles to E were moving fast!!!! I went from 167 to 156 in one minute and 48 seconds.

2018 Hurricane Thor 35M - I was not towing - traveled 15 miles one way / tailgated for football game and traveled 15 miles back. I did fill my rig half way up 45 gallons the previous night before the tailgating. Ran the generator only for tailgating.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:23 PM   #2
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And what is your question or am I missing something?
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:24 PM   #3
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My miles to E went from 167 miles to E to 156 miles to E in one minute and 48 seconds traveling at 60 miles an hour.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:36 PM   #4
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Running at about 60: I average about 9.5 mpg.
(E-450 based Class C... 31 feet long.)
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:01 PM   #5
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My guess is that your fuel level sensor dropped at that point. Perhaps it is a little sticky and at some tank levels it stays there a little longer.

Be happy you have a distance to E gauge...if I want one I'd have to hook up a scangauge.
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Old 10-15-2018, 01:23 AM   #6
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I really whish mine had a mikes to E I would feel better about running near a quarter of a tank. Have you ever checked to see how accurate it seems to be? Like stated earlier could be sticking but also with the placement of the sensor. When these are built and if it’s a Ford item I imagine that may be based on their thought of where it would need to which may be wrong based on what the chassis is ultimately used for.
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:56 AM   #7
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I run the Torque app on a tablet via BT to an OBD reader when I travel, and display fuel level as a percentage. Also have a Distance to Empty calculation as well as many other displays. The Fuel Level fluctuates depending on the tilt of the vehicle, and the time of the sampling.

Further to what Jamie pointed out earlier and what Elite was mentioning. Fluctuations are accounted for in calculations and they need to be so that a problem code is not put out. For those that are interested I have cut and pasted some excerpts for the Fuel Level Sensor from the, "Ford 2017 MY OBD System Operation" manual.

start of paste---->
P0461 or P2066 (Fuel Level Input Noisy): > 40% change between samples, > 100 occurrences, sampled every 0.100 seconds

The FLI signal is also checked to determine if it is stuck. "Fuel consumed" is continuously calculated based on PCM fuel pulse width summation as a percent of fuel tank capacity. (Fuel consumed and fuel gauge reading range are both stored in KAM and reset after a refueling event or DTC storage.) If there is an insufficient corresponding change in fuel tank level, a P0460 DTC is set. Different malfunction criteria are applied based on the
range in which the fuel level sensor is stuck.
In the range between 15% and 85%, a 30% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on the fuel economy of the vehicle and fuel tank capacity.
In the range below 15%, a 40% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on reserve fuel in the fuel tank and the fuel economy of the vehicle.
In the range above 85%, a 60% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on the overfill capacity of the fuel tank and the fuel economy of the vehicle. Note that some vehicles can be overfilled by over 6 gallons.
<---end of paste.
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Old 10-15-2018, 01:05 PM   #8
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I have notice in cars that I have owned in the past the slightest grade will either boot or cut the MPG instantly (you might not even notice the grade). I dont worry about it. Its the overall average that im concerned with.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandtiger75 View Post
Has anyone else experienced this? I was traveling anywhere from 60 to 65 miles an hour. The miles to E were moving fast!!!! I went from 167 to 156 in one minute and 48 seconds.

2018 Hurricane Thor 35M - I was not towing - traveled 15 miles one way / tailgated for football game and traveled 15 miles back. I did fill my rig half way up 45 gallons the previous night before the tailgating. Ran the generator only for tailgating.
Just make sure that Guage doesn't get under a 100. Like find a station you can get the RV into before that happens. Once had a relative that had a car that showed a 1/4 tank and it would run out of gas. The dealer never fixed it cause they were lazy even though it was under warranty, so she traded it in on a new car. Her opinion of that brand? Stand back!
, so she sold it
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterrrr View Post
I run the Torque app on a tablet via BT to an OBD reader when I travel, and display fuel level as a percentage. Also have a Distance to Empty calculation as well as many other displays. The Fuel Level fluctuates depending on the tilt of the vehicle, and the time of the sampling.

Further to what Jamie pointed out earlier and what Elite was mentioning. Fluctuations are accounted for in calculations and they need to be so that a problem code is not put out. For those that are interested I have cut and pasted some excerpts for the Fuel Level Sensor from the, "Ford 2017 MY OBD System Operation" manual.

start of paste---->
P0461 or P2066 (Fuel Level Input Noisy): > 40% change between samples, > 100 occurrences, sampled every 0.100 seconds

The FLI signal is also checked to determine if it is stuck. "Fuel consumed" is continuously calculated based on PCM fuel pulse width summation as a percent of fuel tank capacity. (Fuel consumed and fuel gauge reading range are both stored in KAM and reset after a refueling event or DTC storage.) If there is an insufficient corresponding change in fuel tank level, a P0460 DTC is set. Different malfunction criteria are applied based on the
range in which the fuel level sensor is stuck.
In the range between 15% and 85%, a 30% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on the fuel economy of the vehicle and fuel tank capacity.
In the range below 15%, a 40% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on reserve fuel in the fuel tank and the fuel economy of the vehicle.
In the range above 85%, a 60% difference between fuel consumed and fuel used is typical. The actual value is based on the overfill capacity of the fuel tank and the fuel economy of the vehicle. Note that some vehicles can be overfilled by over 6 gallons.
<---end of paste.
Oncet had a car in the 70s when I was young and the fuel gauge broke about two weeks before I was being transferred overseas. So I filled up the tank every 300 miles on the counter. Good plan except that pulling a U haul hurt the mpg and one time I coasted into a gas station off the highway, out of gas. So I got rid of the uhaul and never found the time to fix the gauge till I sold it. And yes they knew about the gauge being broke, just watch the counter.
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Old 10-15-2018, 02:53 PM   #11
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The readout you get for remaining miles to E are calculated on current conditions...i.e, if you speed up, increasing consumption, the miles to E will drop. If you slow down a bit using less fuel per mile, the distance to E will increase. But, your drop sounds normal...


"I went from 167 to 156 in one minute and 48 seconds."

It only dropped by 11 miles over nearly two minutes at 60-65 MPH....this sounds like you were getting about 7-8 MPG. Am I missing something here?
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Old 10-15-2018, 04:26 PM   #12
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Coming from the motorcycling side of the traffic: If you didn't "ride by your odometer: you died by your odometer"...
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Old 10-15-2018, 04:42 PM   #13
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Coming from the motorcycling side of the traffic: If you didn't "ride by your odometer: you died by your odometer"...
Yup. And I remember way back during the age of the dinosaurs when the gas stations on some roads were few and far between after the big cities. So after I changed the oil in my bike, I cleaned out an oil bottle, filled it with a quart of gas and strapped it to the rack, for another ten miles if I needed it, which I never did. But I was anxious one time. Nowadays the container would be much bigger for the RV.
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Old 10-15-2018, 04:43 PM   #14
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I agree: probably two five-gallon cans!


But Rotopax makes some really nice four-gallon plastic tanks, that lay flat, and could be stored in an outside storage compartment...
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:05 PM   #15
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I agree: probably two five-gallon cans!
Not to mention where they they put the gas cap on my RV, 6 FT high. Ok, think, think, think. Buy a windshield washer pump, a length of rubber gas line hose about 7 ft long, cut off about a foot (this is the suction line) and get oh maybe 3 ft of wire, cut it in half, strip off all the ends, attach both hoses to the wiper motor and put the long end in the RV tank Then attach the electric lines to the motor and the jump starter you have handy for the power to run the motor to drain the 5 gallon can. Lots less muscle. No I didn't use this setup yet on the RV, but I did for when I was pulling an RV trailer. Horrible mileage and only a 26 gal tank. Lifting a five gallon tank and trying to fit it through the nozzle in the filler hole and not spill any? Exhausting.
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:29 PM   #16
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Sandtiger, they say once your RV is broken in you will get maybe 1 more MPG.

The Genny will used about 1/2 gal an hour with the AC on. Even more if you have 50 amp service (with the Bigger Genny) and have TWO AC running at the same time (along with other stuff your powering)

So one Gal an hour will kill your average on such a short run.

If your getting 7 to 9 MPG your doing well. I avg about 9 mpg on mine with the genny running in the summer time. But your rig is a little larger than mine.

I would not pay attention to your instant MPG if thats what you looking at. Fill your tank back up then divide by the miles you traveled on that tank only. Then take about .5 to 1 gal per an HOUR off that you burned up while running your Genny to figure your average.
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Washington View Post
I really whish mine had a mikes to E I would feel better about running near a quarter of a tank. Have you ever checked to see how accurate it seems to be? Like stated earlier could be sticking but also with the placement of the sensor. When these are built and if its a Ford item I imagine that may be based on their thought of where it would need to which may be wrong based on what the chassis is ultimately used for.

Have you looked into the scan gauge? Plugs into the obd connector and adds many, many options of data you can monitor and they are pretty accurate after you go through the adjustment procedure. You can get them on Amazon but here is a link to their website. I have used them since 2004.

https://www.scangauge.com/
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:52 PM   #18
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Sometimes too much information can give you a headache.
When the gauge sets to half-full: it's time to start looking for the pumps.
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:55 PM   #19
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Sometimes too much information can give you a headache.
When the gauge sets to half-full: it's time to start looking for the pumps.
Specially since the RV is so long, the next one may be too short... or everyone is waiting for a spot.
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:05 PM   #20
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Esp in the summer time or when you know you will need the Genny running all day long. On most motorhomes the Genny will stop working once your fuel tank reaches 1/4 mark. So if plan on running the Genny all day try and top off before you reach or destination. I try to refuel once it reaches the half mark or shorlty after (when convenient).
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