Hot Water Woes!

[paul905]

Hi All,

So today I put a fresh water hose to my 2015 Axis for the first time. The coach was winterized when we did the demo so I never got to see the plumbing pressurized in the system. Here is what I did and what happened:

1) I put the Hot water heater valves in normal use position.

2) Store/Use rocker switch in Use position.

3) Plugged into Shore power.

4) I checked the pressure relief valve to ensure the hot water tank was full of water.

This is what happened:

1) No red light at the monitor panel for the Hot Water Heater either in 110 Volt or propane.

2) The Kitchen Sink drain runs the water out onto the ground. I cant really see any drain lines below the coach. So I tried to remove the bottom Kitchen drawer and I have yet to figure that out.

My main concern is the two hot water rocker switches appearing as though they are not getting any power. Rocker switches like that must be 12 volt. The 110 Volt rocker must be connected to a solenoid somewhere. Does anyone Know where they are fused?

There Is a 50 Amp Marine Fuse below the Kitchen Sink. What is that controlling?

I checked all the fuses inside the coach and they were all good. I did however notice the terminals for the tank heater pads were not energized with 12 volt power regardless of the heating pad rocker switch position.

My biggest concern is with the Hot Water or lack of.

Thanks
Paul

[JamieGeek]

The 50A fuse below the sink is the main house fuse from the battery under the step. If its blown you'll get no 12V from that battery (when unplugged on "use").

The kitchen drain should go below the floor and across the coach to the grey tank. If you go to Thor's website on the contact us page you can request drawings for all of the systems on the coach; at least you can see how it should be hooked up.
Here: https://thormotorcoach.com/contact/ click on the "Customer Care" link at the left.

[EA37TS]

Not sure about the Axis but in my coach I don't want to see a red light when I turn on the water heater because that would indicate a failure with the igniter when running on LP. Did the water get hot either on LP or electric? When on LP did you listen for the burner igniting and running?

I'm not positive, but I believe some folks have reported a problem where a wire on the back of the water heater was not connected.

[paul905]

I should see a red light while its trying to ignite on gas. It goes out after it ignites. On AC the light should stay on continuous. Either way no ignition sound from the igniter or burner sounds on gas. No hot water either. There is no sign of activity from the monitor panel red light as if the rocker switches are doing nothing at all.

[EA37TS]

Not sure if this will help but it comes from the Atwood owner's manual:

ELECTRONIC IGNITION MAINTENANCE
• The water heater comes factory-equipped with a fused circuit board,
which will protect the circuit board from wiring shorts. If the fuse
should activate, the water heater will not operate. Before replacing
the fuse, check for a short external to the board. Once the short is
corrected, replace the 2 amp fuse with a mini ATO style fuse. Do not
install a fuse larger than 3 amps.
• If the fuse is good and the unit is inoperative, check for excessively
high voltage to the unit (more than 14 volts).
• If the previous two steps did not solve the problem, check the
thermal cut-off (FIG 3-I). The thermal cutoff is a device installed in the
power supply line. This device will shut off electrical power and stop
heater operation when activated. For example, if an obstruction
within the flue tube should occur, as described in the Preventative
Maintenance section, the burner flame/heat may contact the cutoff,
resulting in a melting of the fuse element incorporated in the
thermal cutoff. In order to restore power and proper operation of the
water heater, the obstruction must be removed and the thermal
cutoff must be replaced.

If the formatting is screwed up it is due to the cut and paste from the manual to the forum.

[paul905]

Just an update: yesterday I checked the 2amp fuse at the hot water heater and found it to be good. I reseated the 2 connections at the circuit board. The hot water heater fired and ran fine on gas but still nothing on 110 volt. I did notice a high pitched sound coming from the circuit board.

I removed a couple of drawers below the kitchen sink to better view the drain leak. The drawers come out pretty easily once you know how. The leak appears to be between the main floor and the enclosed underbelly of the coach. The only thing I can see is the water running out of the underbelly.

It's on its way back to the dealer Fri for them to figure out. It's still under warranty. I was planning the first trip this wkend. Oh well!

Thanks for all the support!
Paul

[scottj]

I'm trying to find out the correct procedure for filling up the fresh water tank on my 2015 Thor Axis 24.1. There are four valves. Appreciate any help on this. Scott

[JamieGeek]

Close the two low-point drain, and the tank drain valves and open the one going to the water pump.

[jrben]

When we first got our coach, the hot water heater wouldn't fire up either, using gas or electric. It turns out the problem was the diode plugged into the front of the hot water heater was bad. Once this was replaced everything worked fine.

[brucev]

Originally Posted by jrben

When we first got our coach, the hot water heater wouldn't fire up either, using gas or electric. It turns out the problem was the diode plugged into the front of the hot water heater was bad. Once this was replaced everything worked fine.

I've had two diodes go bad on ours.