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Old 01-09-2020, 01:56 PM   #21
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Model: Windsport 32R
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THOR #17209
Leaks

My neighbor has a 2016 Freedom Elite 28H, which is a class C. I have spent a lot of time finding the leaks in the roof. What I found is that the gaskets for the marker lights on the roof had shriveled and shrunk so that they were useless. Camping World was worse than useless for parts or help. I ended up making new seals and the leaks were gone.

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Old 01-10-2020, 12:27 AM   #22
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THOR #9033
Quote:
Originally Posted by bglanning85 View Post
So was getting oil change and State inspection and went ahead and asked for a SealTech leak test - as we have seen a couple of times water leaking in a light fixture and then a vent over the cab over.....

Boy - was this a suprise! This is what the tech wrote!

CORRECTION: COMPLETED: MULTIPLE LEAKS FOUND ON THE UNIT ON THE FRONT CAP AROUND THE CLEARANCE LIGHTS. THEN ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IN FRONT OF THE AWNING AT THE TOP, AND ABOVE THE DOOR IN FRONT OF THE AWNING. ALSO AROUND THE MIDDLE OF THE OUTDOOR ENTERTAINMENT DOOR THEN THE SEAL FOR THE MAIN ENTRY DOOR AND AROUND
THE DOOR FRAME AT THE TOP OF THE MAIN ENTRY DOOR. THEN ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE P/S REAR COMPARTMENT DOOR AND THE FRESH WATER FILL OUTLET. THE REAR CAP HAD LEAKS AT ALL OF THE TOP CLEARANCE LIGHTS. ON THE DRIVER SIDE THERE WAS LEAKS AT THE
TOP REAR OF THE GUTTER RAIL AND AT THE SLIDE SEAL TO THE REAR. ALSO AROUND THE GLASS ON THE SLIDE OUT AND AROUND THE CITY WATER CONNECTION AND THE FURNACE DOOR. THERE WAS A LEAK ON THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT CAP AT THE TOP OF THE UNIT AND FRONT CAP CORNER WHERE IT MEETS ABOVE THE DOOR. I THEN WENT ON TOP OF THE UNIT
AND LOOKED AT THE DIE CORE THE FRONT CAP CORNERS ARE NOT COMPLETELY SEALED TO THE EDGE OF THE ROOF AND WHERE THE FIBER GLASS AND THE ROOF MEETS NEEDS TO BE RESEAL. THERE IS ALSO SHOWING VOIDS AROUND THE DIE CORE ON THE ROOF VENTS AND
THE REAR CAP AND BY THE LADDER RAILS WHERE IT GOES INTO THE ROOF. IT IS MY RECOMMENDATION TO CLEAN THE ROOF AND OVERLAY THE ROOF. AND ALSO TO RESEAL THE EXTERIOR REFER TO PICTURES AND ADDITONAL CHECK IN SHEET WHERE I FOUND ON LEAKS.as that an ordeal.

Attaching a few pictures of the many "bubbles" they found. The roof seems the least of the worries...should this be like this after a little less than 2 years? Or did i miss some maintenance I was suppose to do???

$1600 in labor to seal.....phew...

Attachment 22033

Attachment 22034

Attachment 22035

Attachment 22036
I think you might find the same "pressure test" results if you would do this on any car, truck, or house for that matter.
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Old 05-09-2020, 06:53 PM   #23
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THOR #15896
So recently I noticed floor on rear of RV beside bed on my 2015 wind sport is soft. Looks like I have a leak from room seam. Shop quoted me $750 to strip all roof/vent and other caulk, prime it and re-caulk. Doesn’t seam to bad? Your thoughts? At some point there has to be a class action suit recovery for this shoddy build. I worked around semi trucks and trailers for 50 years and never saw quick deterioration anything like this. (Venting!) thanks in advance for input. Oh, and roughly $400 to replace bad flooring...
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Old 05-09-2020, 08:17 PM   #24
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Leaky

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor2015 View Post
So recently I noticed floor on rear of RV beside bed on my 2015 wind sport is soft. Looks like I have a leak from room seam. Shop quoted me $750 to strip all roof/vent and other caulk, prime it and re-caulk. Doesn’t seam to bad? Your thoughts? At some point there has to be a class action suit recovery for this shoddy build. I worked around semi trucks and trailers for 50 years and never saw quick deterioration anything like this. (Venting!) thanks in advance for input. Oh, and roughly $400 to replace bad flooring...
Just in the hope that it makes you feel better.... We paid almost $2000 to have our driver/passenger windows removed on our 2016 Axis to determine how water was getting into the sidewalls.
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Old 05-09-2020, 08:53 PM   #25
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THOR #6826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor2015 View Post
So recently I noticed floor on rear of RV beside bed on my 2015 wind sport is soft. Looks like I have a leak from room seam. Shop quoted me $750 to strip all roof/vent and other caulk, prime it and re-caulk. Doesn’t seam to bad? Your thoughts? At some point there has to be a class action suit recovery for this shoddy build. I worked around semi trucks and trailers for 50 years and never saw quick deterioration anything like this. (Venting!) thanks in advance for input. Oh, and roughly $400 to replace bad flooring...


Have you been doing your quarterly inspections of seals, seams and penetrations? Dealers don’t really stress it but it’s certainly in your owner’s manual. It is a vital part of RV ownership. I do it 4 or 5 to times a year on my hands and knees on the roof and on a ladder for the sides. It’s somewhat unusual for me not to find something needing attention. Good luck with your repairs.
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Old 05-09-2020, 09:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Have you been doing your quarterly inspections of seals, seams and penetrations? Dealers don’t really stress it but it’s certainly in your owner’s manual. It is a vital part of RV ownership. I do it 4 or 5 to times a year on my hands and knees on the roof and on a ladder for the sides. It’s somewhat unusual for me not to find something needing attention. Good luck with your repairs.
If you're a GOod Sam member, you get a free inspection, including roof, every year at Camping World. Had mine in Jan and they were surprisingly thorough. They found a few issues that I was able to fix on my own even though they gave me an estimate to do the work.
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:21 PM   #27
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THOR #17765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligan2 View Post
My cabover windows leaked. I used a leaf blower and soapy water to find the leaks. It was important to keep the blower at least 3=4 feet from the windows or you just overpowered the seals. Very apparent with slideout seals. the Air just went right past a non-leaking seal as the blower got close. Don't know what kind of overpressure the sealtech uses but that might be a factor in the number of areas targeted.
. Some of the fittings like the water inlet may have to be removed new caulk applied.
The dicor sealant usually does not have to be dug out and redone. Simply clean, fill any cracks and then I apply a fresh layer of dicor over the old as long as it is not lifting.
So did you use the blower inside? Sprayed soapy water on outside then blower from inside?
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Old 07-18-2020, 09:16 PM   #28
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THOR #9033
Quote:
Originally Posted by bglanning85 View Post
So was getting oil change and State inspection and went ahead and asked for a SealTech leak test - as we have seen a couple of times water leaking in a light fixture and then a vent over the cab over.....

Boy - was this a suprise! This is what the tech wrote!

CORRECTION: COMPLETED: MULTIPLE LEAKS FOUND ON THE UNIT ON THE FRONT CAP AROUND THE CLEARANCE LIGHTS. THEN ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IN FRONT OF THE AWNING AT THE TOP, AND ABOVE THE DOOR IN FRONT OF THE AWNING. ALSO AROUND THE MIDDLE OF THE OUTDOOR ENTERTAINMENT DOOR THEN THE SEAL FOR THE MAIN ENTRY DOOR AND AROUND
THE DOOR FRAME AT THE TOP OF THE MAIN ENTRY DOOR. THEN ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE P/S REAR COMPARTMENT DOOR AND THE FRESH WATER FILL OUTLET. THE REAR CAP HAD LEAKS AT ALL OF THE TOP CLEARANCE LIGHTS. ON THE DRIVER SIDE THERE WAS LEAKS AT THE
TOP REAR OF THE GUTTER RAIL AND AT THE SLIDE SEAL TO THE REAR. ALSO AROUND THE GLASS ON THE SLIDE OUT AND AROUND THE CITY WATER CONNECTION AND THE FURNACE DOOR. THERE WAS A LEAK ON THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT CAP AT THE TOP OF THE UNIT AND FRONT CAP CORNER WHERE IT MEETS ABOVE THE DOOR. I THEN WENT ON TOP OF THE UNIT
AND LOOKED AT THE DIE CORE THE FRONT CAP CORNERS ARE NOT COMPLETELY SEALED TO THE EDGE OF THE ROOF AND WHERE THE FIBER GLASS AND THE ROOF MEETS NEEDS TO BE RESEAL. THERE IS ALSO SHOWING VOIDS AROUND THE DIE CORE ON THE ROOF VENTS AND
THE REAR CAP AND BY THE LADDER RAILS WHERE IT GOES INTO THE ROOF. IT IS MY RECOMMENDATION TO CLEAN THE ROOF AND OVERLAY THE ROOF. AND ALSO TO RESEAL THE EXTERIOR REFER TO PICTURES AND ADDITONAL CHECK IN SHEET WHERE I FOUND ON LEAKS.as that an ordeal.

Attaching a few pictures of the many "bubbles" they found. The roof seems the least of the worries...should this be like this after a little less than 2 years? Or did i miss some maintenance I was suppose to do???

$1600 in labor to seal.....phew...

Attachment 22033

Attachment 22034

Attachment 22035

Attachment 22036
I had an inspection that found some "caulking problems" They wanted about 500 to fix. I took care of it...and believe me, it was just laying on some self leveling caulk on the roof for the price of 2 tubes of goo. Be careful.
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:58 AM   #29
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THOR #17765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfbum18 View Post
I had an inspection that found some "caulking problems" They wanted about 500 to fix. I took care of it...and believe me, it was just laying on some self leveling caulk on the roof for the price of 2 tubes of goo. Be careful.
In the first 2 months I found so many leaks I can’t post them all hear. Chances are those have been leaking since day 1. Be careful what product sealant you use. Dicor self leveling is fine on and around the roof. Geocell aproseal RV for trim windows and painted surfaces. Clean everything up good with alcohol first. And never ever use silicone.
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Old 07-19-2020, 06:32 PM   #30
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THOR #6433
It’s funny that the pressure test found so many leaks. When our coach was new we had leaks so bad that there was water draining from the seam in the front cap and mold growing in the bunk. They could never find the leak took 4 times and on the 4th time they finally got it. They just re sealed everything all over. So it’s definitely a pain to do but you just have to get in the habit or resealing everything every year:
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