Miramar Generator prob

fredsbook · 05-09-2015, 03:53 AM

I've been trying to figure why my Miramar auxiliary generator won't start. It does when I'm connected to shore power. I unplug shore power and the gen will start once. I try using the dash toggle to start the gen and no go. I use the remote and again no go. I even try the start switch on the gen and again no go. If I plug into shore power the gen will start. Unplug and again it may start once. I shut it down and try again and again no go no matter how I attempt to start the gen. I figure my aux batteries are not getting charged. But when I use the system test buttons to show the power levels of the batteries they show full load.
So what am I doing wrong? Or is it a problem I need to get fixed? I'm a newbie as you probably figure out. So be kind if this is a stupid issue because of my lack of knowledge.

FW28z · 05-09-2015, 10:42 AM

When you say the generator won't start, do you mean it won't crank?

The generator uses the house batteries to start, and I would say that the batteries are kaput as the fact that being on shorepower allows you to start the generator means you are starting it via the converter/battery charger.

The LED battery indicators are all but worthless. They are not precision enough, and they are also not accurate.

Do you notice any low-voltage issues with the house batteries when you turn on a lot of stuff; lights, water pump, etc?

The only way to truly get an accurate battery test is to do a voltage check after it has been disconnected and at rest for at least 1 hours, or to use a hygrometer/refractometer to check the electrolyte. Quite often it's easier to use a hygrometer than disconnecting the batteries.

Since you are new to this stuff, how long do you leave the coach on shorepower? Even with everything off, the house batteries can drain, so just sitting in your driveway can discharge the batteries over time - which is why many RV'ers keep their rigs on shorepower.

**EA37TS** · 05-09-2015, 12:22 PM

Have you tried starting the coach, allow it to run for a few minutes and then start the generator?

Also, the Miramar has an inverter. On the inverter control panel what does it give for a battery voltage reading?

First things I would check

Check the water level in the house batteries
Check the cables on the house batteries and make sure they are tight
Start the engine and let it run, then try starting the generator if this works run the generator or stay connected to shore power for at least 30 minutes.
Disconnect and see if the batteries maintain the charge. If not have the batteries load tested.

fredsbook · 05-14-2015, 02:08 AM

FYI. I've tried different ways to solve this problem. It turns out that the house batteries are not getting power. So they are dead/not charged. This is a new Miramar. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with the RV dealer that sold me the RV. I'll post the results.

sdconner · 05-14-2015, 10:08 PM

My 2014 Miramar batteries (2) are junk in 18 months. One kept sulfating/venting and destroyed the (cheap) strap that holds the batteries down.

I modified the battery compartment and installed (4) new 6 volt batteries. And a (2) new style straps.

Two batteries were never enough to keep (just) the 110 VAC refrigerator running through the night without the generator coming on (automatically). They would last about 3 hours before the generator kicked on.

fredsbook · 05-14-2015, 11:39 PM

Well, I went to my RV dealer and my electrical system is just fine. Seems that by leaving my RV connected to shore power for this past month, the house batteries boiled (?) up the water. So I added water to both 6v batteries. I'll check in the am to see if the batteries hold a charge or not. Thanks sdconner for your input. Looks like I'll do the same. Tell me more about the batteries you bought to replace the original ones. I was told that 6v batteries last longer then 12v. Is that true? As you can see I'm not very savy on batteries/power systems.

Jonny Boy · 05-15-2015, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdconner

My 2014 Miramar batteries (2) are junk in 18 months. One kept sulfating/venting and destroyed the (cheap) strap that holds the batteries down.

I modified the battery compartment and installed (4) new 6 volt batteries. And a (2) new style straps.

Two batteries were never enough to keep (just) the 110 VAC refrigerator running through the night without the generator coming on (automatically). They would last about 3 hours before the generator kicked on.

Do you have any pictures of the modification you did? Also do you know the brand of batteries you used? Any and all information you have on this would be greatly appreciated. This sounds like one of those must do mods that should have been done from the factory!

**EA37TS** · 05-15-2015, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonny Boy

Do you have any pictures of the modification you did? Also do you know the brand of batteries you used? Any and all information you have on this would be greatly appreciated. This sounds like one of those must do mods that should have been done from the factory!

The battery straps in my coach and I believe they are the same in the Miramar are the same ones that are used by numerous RV manufactures and work just fine if the owner performs maintenance on the batteries as required. That maintenance as stated in my owners manual, which covers class B, class c and class A coaches, specifically mentions the use of a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize any battery acid that may seep out of the batteries and into the battery compartment. This solution will also neutralize battery acid that has soaked into the hold down straps and extend their life.

sdconner · 05-15-2015, 11:26 PM

I will try to send pictures of my installation.

Jonny Boy · 05-16-2015, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dstankov

The battery straps in my coach and I believe they are the same in the Miramar are the same ones that are used by numerous RV manufactures and work just fine if the owner performs maintenance on the batteries as required. That maintenance as stated in my owners manual, which covers class B, class c and class A coaches, specifically mentions the use of a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize any battery acid that may seep out of the batteries and into the battery compartment. This solution will also neutralize battery acid that has soaked into the hold down straps and extend their life.

Yeah, I recall reading that. I wasnt so concerned about the straps. My questions was more about the 4 battery set up that was done. I know when running the inverter only, the batteries do not hold voltage very well.

Just curious, but does anyone know of a different type of battery that could be used instead of the acid batteries? Pros/Cons

**EA37TS** · 05-16-2015, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonny Boy

Yeah, I recall reading that. I wasnt so concerned about the straps. My questions was more about the 4 battery set up that was done. I know when running the inverter only, the batteries do not hold voltage very well.

Just curious, but does anyone know of a different type of battery that could be used instead of the acid batteries? Pros/Cons

There are different types of batteries but you may pay dearly for them. There are also larger 6 volt batteries that could be installed, again at a cost. The question becomes what type of load are you placing on the batteries when you are not connected to shore power. When running on battery power are you using the fridge, AC, etc... All of these place a load on the battery in terms of amps and the more things running the shorter the time between charges.

At the following link there is a marine/rv battery load calculator that can help in determining what your actual power load is.

Marine & RV Battery Load Calculator from Boundless Outfitters

My last trip out someone was complaining about their power consumption and when asked they mentioned they had two daughters using hair dryers and curling irons and he was using an electric leaf blower to blow off his patio mat twice a day.

The other thing to keep in mind, if you go from a two battery to four battery configuration or to a larger and heavier two battery configuration your weight distribution in the coach changes. If you are running at or near max weight you must decide what to leave behind. I believe, and I haven't done the comparison, a lot of beer (or water) has to stay behind to make up for the weight of one battery.

Bottom line is you must first determine what your typical power consumption is and then determine the battery configuration that is best for you and your rv'ing lifestyle.

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