More jack problems with Challenger.

[Sanford]

After experiencing jack problems last week and having to manually retract the jacks, and replace the chassis battery, we experienced no more issues until today.

We made it to Bar Harbor, Maine today only to find that our jacks will not operate. Tried auto and manual methods, nothing. The pump is not working. Called Thor CS and they walked me though several checks, but to no avail. We tried to bypass the solenoid but only got a spark. Tech said the pump is shot and needs replacing.

He told me I could use the drill to manually level. I'm familiar with that process, but spent an hour trying to lower the jacks to no avail. Pump turns but jacks don't move.

At this point I'm lost. Any help appreciated!

[javelin]

I am not a jack expert at all and at the risk of being insulting (especially because you said you know the manual override process):


- set your parking brake for safety (if you do get the jacks down)
- visually check all jacks and ground to see if there are any obvious hydraulic leaks anywhere
- jack fluid near full in the pump reservoir?
- adjust the appropriate valve body screw fully clockwise for the jack you want to bring down
- run drill clockwise to extend; counter clockwise to retract the specific jack


If nothing is happening then I defer to someone who has actually been into the pump body and knows how the motor and pump are coupled, or if there is some other internal pressure valve that may not be allowing pump pressure to build up as the motor turns. Another call to Thor might help clarify?

[javelin]

I forgot to mention as a last point on the list, to turn the valve body valve completely counter clockwise after the jack is adjusted down or up as required to close the valve. Refer to your jack manual for all the gory details. I hope you get level and setup OK.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Sanford

After experiencing jack problems last week and having to manually retract the jacks, and replace the chassis battery, we experienced no more issues until today.

We made it to Bar Harbor, Maine today only to find that our jacks will not operate. Tried auto and manual methods, nothing. The pump is not working. Called Thor CS and they walked me though several checks, but to no avail. We tried to bypass the solenoid but only got a spark. Tech said the pump is shot and needs replacing.

He told me I could use the drill to manually level. I'm familiar with that process, but spent an hour trying to lower the jacks to no avail. Pump turns but jacks don't move.

At this point I'm lost. Any help appreciated!

Had the same issue with my ACE almost two years ago. There's a place in California that will rebuild these cheap Chinese motors Lippert uses in their hydraulic levelers for half the price of a new one. Got ours rebuilt and haven't had any issues with it since.

https://eurtonelectric.com/

[Sanford]

Not insulted at all. I did exactly what you described with no luck. The pump doesn't seem to be functioning at all. Checked for leaks, and reservoir is full.

[Sanford]

We're on the road and don't really have the time for a rebuild. I'm calling Thor Monday again and if no luck will have a pump overnighted to CG. Thanks for the input.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Sanford

Not insulted at all. I did exactly what you described with no luck. The pump doesn't seem to be functioning at all. Checked for leaks, and reservoir is full.

if the pump is not working you have bigger problems than the motor.

[Sanford]

16ACE27
I think you're right. Lippert tech is working with me on solving this. He wants the model number for the control switch. I haven't been able to locate it. Any suggestions?

[javelin]

Ask the tech where the number is located......failing that take a picture of the panel and email it to him/her. At least they should be able to recognize certain devices in their product lines.

[Sanford]

I did, he thought it was in the forward bin. No luck. I have sent pics of the pump and the control switch. Hopefully that will be enough.

[Sanford]

Well, ordered the hydraulic pump assembly $$$. We will limp home, and do the replacement locally. Thanks for all the help.

[javelin]

Sorry to hear your jacks problem will be an expensive repair instead of a simple fix. If you are going to do repairs yourself take some pictures and post your progress. Hope you will be back in business soon.....although with lighter pocket book.

[DWS50]

Originally Posted by Sanford

After experiencing jack problems last week and having to manually retract the jacks, and replace the chassis battery, we experienced no more issues until today.

We made it to Bar Harbor, Maine today only to find that our jacks will not operate. Tried auto and manual methods, nothing. The pump is not working. Called Thor CS and they walked me though several checks, but to no avail. We tried to bypass the solenoid but only got a spark. Tech said the pump is shot and needs replacing.

He told me I could use the drill to manually level. I'm familiar with that process, but spent an hour trying to lower the jacks to no avail. Pump turns but jacks don't move.

At this point I'm lost. Any help appreciated!

I have a 2020 Thor Challenger 37FH. Went to a campground set up and was there for 3 days. When check out came my jacks would not come up! I called Thor and they had me check a 100amp circuit breaker in the jack compartment and one in the engine compartment. Both were good and not tripped. Then they had me take the 4 screws out of the jack control panel and check to see if it was plugged in in the back. It was still plugged in as it is clipped into place. So I put it back together. This is my first coach so I really wanted Thor to handle this but I was getting anxious as it is check out time! I was thinking about manually bringing them up. It would have taken me forever to read up on how to manually bring up the jacks. So we waited for Thor to send help. When help arrived the first thing they did was take out the control panel like I did but they added some kind of electrical grease and BOOM I had my jacks back! It made for a 5 hour delay and I was thankful I didn’t have to pay for another night’s stay. But we hit the 5 pm traffic on I-4 in Orlando and didn’t get home until after dark.

One other issue I had to me that is related. I was doing a light check with my tow vehicle and the coach right brake light was inop. So I had to get a special bit to be able to get to the bulb in the light housing. It is only one very fat screw but without the bit for it … you are screwed! It is a star bit with a hole in the middle. I got mine at Auto Zone. I imagine Lowes or Home Depot has them too but I went with automotive stuff. I took out the one screw and the housing comes out real easy. I got the bulb out and held it up to the light and it didn’t appear to be out as all those little tiny wires were still connected inside. I plugged it back in and … nothing. So I got out that little tube of electrical grease and put it on the wired part of the bulb where it plugs in and plugged it back in and wah la … I had a brake light again! I just wonder about the electrical system connections. Those little things make for BIG problems … No jacks and a possible traffic ticket! If I knew the name of that grease I would put it in here but I am sure someone knows. That tube of stuff is in and the coach in the storage lot. I hope this helps someone down the road.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Sanford

After experiencing jack problems last week and having to manually retract the jacks, and replace the chassis battery, we experienced no more issues until today.

We made it to Bar Harbor, Maine today only to find that our jacks will not operate. Tried auto and manual methods, nothing. The pump is not working. Called Thor CS and they walked me though several checks, but to no avail. We tried to bypass the solenoid but only got a spark. Tech said the pump is shot and needs replacing.

He told me I could use the drill to manually level. I'm familiar with that process, but spent an hour trying to lower the jacks to no avail. Pump turns but jacks don't move.

At this point I'm lost. Any help appreciated!

There is a 100 amp circuit breaker on the wall of the battery compartment that supplies current to the pump motor solenoid and the generator starter solenoid. It is a long shot but you could trip (press the red button) and reset the flag. Lastly check the battery connections to the 100 amp circuit breaker.

[javelin]

The grease mentioned in post #13 is likely dielectric grease, which is sold in most automotive stores.

[justjohn57]

FWIW, by 100A breaker blew with the jacks down. Lights on control panel worked but nothing else. Found out it was because one of the jacks bottomed out because of the slope behind my rear tires. Now I always get out and place blocks so that doesn't happen again.

[chan4him]

We had a problem like that. Found out 2,000 miles later that our alternator was failing. Took it to Freightliner for service everything back to normal.

[10scDust]

Originally Posted by javelin

I am not a jack expert at all and at the risk of being insulting (especially because you said you know the manual override process):


- set your parking brake for safety (if you do get the jacks down)
- visually check all jacks and ground to see if there are any obvious hydraulic leaks anywhere
- jack fluid near full in the pump reservoir?
- adjust the appropriate valve body screw fully clockwise for the jack you want to bring down
- run drill clockwise to extend; counter clockwise to retract the specific jack


If nothing is happening then I defer to someone who has actually been into the pump body and knows how the motor and pump are coupled, or if there is some other internal pressure valve that may not be allowing pump pressure to build up as the motor turns. Another call to Thor might help clarify?

Not insulting, but I believe some of your logic is incorrect, as I believed the same at one time.
Talking about a Lippert system here.

The pump, & its motor, run in a counter-clockwise rotation when viewing it from the end facing outward of the RV.
The solenoid bypass screw, you mention, is to open flow to its designated jacking cylinder, each valve is basically an open or closed type of valve.

There is also a directional valve that comes into play.
Its default is for direction of flow to retract (raise) the jacks.

To manually extend the jacks may be somewhat complicated, especially for someone not sure what to do, as the directional valve will need 12vdc power to activate its valve direction change.
The solenoid valve to the specific jack to be deployed opened.
Then the spinning of the motor with a drill in left hand direction.
I don't think Lippert tells you this, nor recommends, trying to level with their system manually.

The pump is a gear pump, directly driven, by the motor inline, using 12vdc power.
It will take a lot of trash going through the pump to ruin it.
If the reservoir fluid is clean, then no worries there.
I could not find a replaceable pump without purchasing an entire pumping unit at about $1800 or something.

With a volt meter, test the connections at the motor to determine power is present.
Hold ground probe to the frame, positive probe test connections to see power is present.
One of the 12vdc 50 or 100 amp breaker powers this motor, check for flags popped out, or physically use the volt meter to verify power passing through.
Make sure "use" switch is on & parking brake engaged.
The parking brake provides the Ground connection to allow system to work, ignition key in on position provides the positive power needed.

You should be able to jumper power on the motor to get it to spin.

Running the motor in clockwise will not do anything.
It is the valve combination that allows flow to be directed for functions directed.
The solenoid valves are aka logic valves.

This is from my experience from problems we have had.
Trying to level the RV, have someone near the hydraulics unit, to listen for the motor to run when a prompt is made for leveling, or returning the jacks up from the control panel.
That will tell you the motor/pump is working.

Our problem is they would not return when prompted to and needed to be done manually.
It ended up being a bad directional valve.

Another time was nothing worked at all.
An error message was displayed, all power/fuse/breaker tested good, but nothing could be made to work.
That was a main "brain" component needing replaced.
It was located inside the roof of an outside basement compartment.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

Not insulting, but I believe some of your logic is incorrect, as I believed the same at one time.
Talking about a Lippert system here.

The pump, & its motor, run in a counter-clockwise rotation when viewing it from the end facing outward of the RV.
The solenoid bypass screw, you mention, is to open flow to its designated jacking cylinder, each valve is basically an open or closed type of valve.

There is also a directional valve that comes into play.
Its default is for direction of flow to retract (raise) the jacks.

To manually extend the jacks may be somewhat complicated, especially for someone not sure what to do, as the directional valve will need 12vdc power to activate its valve direction change.
The solenoid valve to the specific jack to be deployed opened.
Then the spinning of the motor with a drill in left hand direction.
I don't think Lippert tells you this, nor recommends, trying to level with their system manually.

The pump is a gear pump, directly driven, by the motor inline, using 12vdc power.
It will take a lot of trash going through the pump to ruin it.
If the reservoir fluid is clean, then no worries there.
I could not find a replaceable pump without purchasing an entire pumping unit at about $1800 or something.

With a volt meter, test the connections at the motor to determine power is present.
Hold ground probe to the frame, positive probe test connections to see power is present.
One of the 12vdc 50 or 100 amp breaker powers this motor, check for flags popped out, or physically use the volt meter to verify power passing through.
Make sure "use" switch is on & parking brake engaged.
The parking brake provides the Ground connection to allow system to work, ignition key in on position provides the positive power needed.

You should be able to jumper power on the motor to get it to spin.

Running the motor in clockwise will not do anything.
It is the valve combination that allows flow to be directed for functions directed.
The solenoid valves are aka logic valves.

This is from my experience from problems we have had.
Trying to level the RV, have someone near the hydraulics unit, to listen for the motor to run when a prompt is made for leveling, or returning the jacks up from the control panel.
That will tell you the motor/pump is working.

Our problem is they would not return when prompted to and needed to be done manually.
It ended up being a bad directional valve.

Another time was nothing worked at all.
An error message was displayed, all power/fuse/breaker tested good, but nothing could be made to work.
That was a main "brain" component needing replaced.
It was located inside the roof of an outside basement compartment.

The directional valve does not come into play when following Lippert's directions to manually operate the jacks. You spin the motor in one direction to extend, the other direction to retract.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

The directional valve does not come into play when following Lippert's directions to manually operate the jacks. You spin the motor in one direction to extend, the other direction to retract.

Not on my coach, The motor solenoid has only one set of contacts. The black motor ground goes directly to the ground and not to the solenoid. The barrel valves have two positions - one for the black hoses (pressure down) and one for the red hoses (pressure up). This is for the 2013 and later system (9010000325).