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Old 10-01-2016, 03:19 PM   #1
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THOR #2142
REAR LIGHT LENS ASSEMBLY, Leaky Gasket or Something else?

To All,

I have read various threads this Forum about leaky gaskets on the Rear Light Lens Assembly. I decided to take care of it and so I followed a thread put out by Ed I believe "Busy Day at the RV" where he repaired his RV.

I was quite suprised to find no water damage or staining in the cut out once I removed the Lens. I used a can of Flex Seal (white) that I had left over from a home gutter repair.

When I went to put things back to gether I noticed all the screws (self tapping type) were rusted (see attachment).

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1475334822

I cleaned out the screw holes and found rust and some damaged wood. For the time being I filled the holes with silicone and reassembled the Lenses.

My first question for the more senior RV'ers is do I need to grind out each hole and fill with wood putty? A couple of the screws did not "Bite" the wood so at the very least I will need to replace a couple of them with a larger diameter screw.

My second question is...is it normal for screws to start rusting out (this is a 2016 model, manufactured in March of 2015)? There are a lot of things attached to the outside of my Vegas and I would hate to think all the holes are leaking water into the plywood that provides support for the unit.

Doc
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:10 PM   #2
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THOR #3610
Just replace the original screws with 1 size larger stainless steel screws along with packing wooden toothpicks or wooden match sticks into the holes with a dab of wood glue.
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:36 PM   #3
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THOR #2142
Thanks for the repair tip.

Still I wonder why Stainless Steel screws were not used in the first place...and where else on the RV are ths screws rusting (time will tell).

Doc
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:25 PM   #4
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THOR #1765
They did not use stainless screws anywhere that I can find on the Axis. Camping World gave me enough to replace all the screws than hold the fender skirts on.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:21 PM   #5
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Wow, no Stainless Steel screws? Just wonderning, since the base metal screws used last only about 18 months when exposed to moisture...would Brass screws be worth the cost? Just thinking if I'm going long term with this RV and the outside base metal screws are going to need to be replaced, Brass vs Stainless Steel? Any metallurgists out there?

Doc
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2016 Vegas 24.1 E350 5 speed "Ms. Enterprise", Bug-Guard Screen, Recliners, Infotainment Center, HUD, ARC Shower Rod, Safe-T-Plus, Curt SpareTire Mount,Tornado Black Tank Rinser, ext. WiFi Antenna, Roadmaster Tow Sys& Invisibrake.

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Old 10-02-2016, 12:27 AM   #6
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THOR #3195
Brass screws would be too soft, coated screws perhaps, but why pay the extra. Get stainless. I added a 1/2 pad of 2" x 2" plywood on the inside (backside of the rear cap) glued that in and let it dry, I then just used a slightly longer screw to bite the new pad I glued on the inside.
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Old 10-02-2016, 01:05 AM   #7
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I've used stainless everything on all my ocean going boats for over 50 years. Go with stainless.
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Old 10-02-2016, 02:12 AM   #8
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I flex sealed mine and I always replace screws with stainless steel which should have been used in the first place.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:52 PM   #9
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Yup my screws were rusted as well (that was my thread: Busy Day with the Axis).
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:03 PM   #10
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THOR #2142
All,

It is a small world. I was out on Lake Norman NC this past Sunday for a last boat ride and to help my Chiropractor get his boat ready for the winter. We stopped at a small lake accessible bar and grill to watch the start of the Carolina Panther's game...and to get a cold adult beverage or two (had to leave after the first half...too painful to watch).

Anyway, a friend of my Chiropractor stops by the table and we start talking about rubber gaskets (he restores old cars) and owns a company that makes the rubber gaskets for cars, boats and is starting to get into the RV sector. I discussed the problem with the rear lens gaskets and he started telling me about different materials, thicknesses ect and that he would like to see the problem that I am having as it sounds like something that the fix is right up their alley.

Before I head over there I'd like to get tap into the "School of Hard Knocks" of the more senior (and learned) members of this Forum in so far as preferred material, thickness and a reasonable price.

Please advise.

Doc
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Old 10-05-2016, 03:34 PM   #11
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I sealed mine in with butyl tape, and it seems to be a decent fix.
except for the round insert lens for the back-up light. That one doesn't have a lot of sealing surface area.

As far as a gasket, I'd say thickness isn't all thagt critical, but it needs to have long lasting elastic properties, UV resistance
and I figure you really need a gasket under the black backer plate as well as under the lens itself.
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Old 10-05-2016, 04:56 PM   #12
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Most manufacturers in an assembly envronment won't use stainless screws because they are not magnetic and will not stay on the driver bit.

Sad but true.
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Old 10-05-2016, 06:03 PM   #13
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Orion,

Wowsers, so as far as corporations are concerned... the End User dealing with rust is an acceptable option.

When I go and talk with Matt about the gaskets looks like UV resistance and long lasting elastic properties are prime concerns. Anyone else have anything on their "Wish List" for rubber gaskets>?

Doc
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2016 Vegas 24.1 E350 5 speed "Ms. Enterprise", Bug-Guard Screen, Recliners, Infotainment Center, HUD, ARC Shower Rod, Safe-T-Plus, Curt SpareTire Mount,Tornado Black Tank Rinser, ext. WiFi Antenna, Roadmaster Tow Sys& Invisibrake.

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Old 04-17-2018, 11:18 AM   #14
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THOR #6576
Another Thor Rusty Screw/Rear Light Lens Assembly Victim...

I had to change a burned out light bulb yesterday and encountered the same issue. It took about an hour to back out all the rusty screws alone. I replaced with stainless screws as suggested and will have to repair damaged wood/delamination. Anyone know of a suitable replacement assembly? Make, model, source? All Thor could do is suggest the same ones that came with the coach. Thank you.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:28 PM   #15
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THOR #3483
There is another thread on this subject with several different approaches to answering your question. I went with the same brand as the original, but the complete LED model. I changed to SS screws with rubber o-rings, used butyl tape around the back of the edges instead of their supplied sponge type gaskets and finally sealed the outside edge with Flexpro black silicone. I made a point of adding the o-rings to the already installed screws on the center back-up light. The good thing about this answer is that the openings cut for the original lights do not need to be modified and you can order the part number that uses the original plug so you don't need to cut and connect wires. So far I am pretty happy with them and the LEDs are a huge improvement.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:35 PM   #16
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THOR #6576
Source for LED tail lights

Thank you for the information. Do you happen to have the source information from where you obtained the replacement lights?
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:49 PM   #17
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http://www.commandelectronics.com/
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:13 PM   #18
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Thank You

Much appreciated!
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:34 PM   #19
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THOR #12679
Another Thor Rusty Screw/Rear Light Lens Assembly Victim...

I have a Thor 22FE Class C. What type and size screwdriver/bit fits into the screw head? Based on feedback in this thread, I do not want to strip the screws by just inserting different type screwdrivers/tools/bits.
Screws do not look like your average Phillips head. Thanks...
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:02 PM   #20
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I don't have it in front of me.... but I believe that it was the square drive on mine, typical to almost everything in the RV...I could be wrong, but #2 Robertson if memory serves.

IMHO, that's one of the few things they got right.... I find square drive to be far superior to phillips (and posidrive...and whatever that other common one that is often confused with philips too)

for what its worth, those screws are combination. can use the square bit of a phillips
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