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Old 03-13-2019, 02:55 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Challenger 37GT
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THOR #14675
14 Challenger headlights and radio cut off

I recently bought a 2014 Thor Challenger 37Gt and love it but have some issues to solve. When I come to a stop sign or red light, the radio cuts off as well as the headlights and the hi-beam indicator illuminates. The engine continues to run fine and shortly after accelerating away from the stop, the problems disappear until the next stop. I believe it may be a ground or something but hope someone here can give me other ideas. Thanks

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Old 03-13-2019, 12:42 PM   #2
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THOR #7074
I would look at the condition of the 7 pin Hitch Plug wiring harness and see if the brake light wire is shorting out?
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:02 PM   #3
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yes, or it sounds like a possible loose connection in the wiring harness, as the front of the coach is 'moving away' from the engine, ever so slightly, as the gravity of the stop comes into play... an attached wiring harness that is being pulled during the stop could be the culprit...
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:32 PM   #4
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Very interesting problem. You step on the brake and you say your headlights and the dash high beam indicator illuminate. Do you mean a dash headlight indicator lamp comes on or the actual headlights come on? If actual headlights come on, is it just the high beams or both beams? It would be helpful to have the actual schematics of course and some members on the forum do have that info. It is important to note all the things affected by stepping on the brake pedal. Radio stops.....do you mean no power or just audio stops?
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:54 PM   #5
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THOR #14675
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Yeah guys the only things that seem affected are the radio (Jensen) goes off and converts into rear camera mode, the headlights and ALL yellow marker lights go off, the high beam “blue” dash indicator illuminates (high beams are not on) but the brake lights do work as my wife verified. Also fog lights do not work either as I tried during the glitch. Replaced the chassis battery very recently but it is securely fastened down. I will try to do a voltage check during the glitch. Could low voltage cause this by the alternator not doing its job at low engine rpm’s? I do rev the engine at a stop and it did not help restore the lights/radio.
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:01 PM   #6
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I think you found out why it was for sale.

I think you have a loose/intermittent wiring junction problem that will require a lot of dedicated troubleshooting to resolve,
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:28 PM   #7
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Hi Julius.....2014 Challenger. You just replaced the chassis battery......was all brake, signal, 4 way, park and dash lighting operating normally prior to the battery change over (other than a weak/bad old battery)?


Make double sure all your ground connections are clean and tight starting with new battery and any other engine bay grounds. I don’t know your coach, but many have a common ground cable bolted on the right side of the radiator in engine bay......if you do, make sure it is clean and tight.


It is very interesting that when you step on the brake the dash high beam lamp comes on, but not the high beam headlights (try checking this at night too for any glow from headlight or park light bulb filaments showing) since they typically are spliced and get their 12vdc together when appropriate switches are operated (like the vehicle multiuse switch on steering column). So, where would +12vdc battery come from to light the dash high beam indicator but not the actual high beam headlamps? Maybe a resistive +12vdc shorting to the high beam circuit......so just enough current to light a small dash lamp but not enough to light the actual high beams or blow any fuses. By resistive +12vdc I mean power somehow being backfed through lamp filaments to wrong circuits because of a bad ground somewhere else. The real head scratcher is determining a common failure mechanism that results in all the various issues you see.


Attaching an old generic Ford headlight schematic for reference.....shows high beam dash lamp in top right. It also seems that your radio is still powered but just triggered to switch into backup mode for rear camera to come on. Start with recent changes to see if something else was affected. If not, then pick one trouble to start with as it may result in clearing them all. This a good head scratcher.
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File Type: doc Typical F53 Headlight Circuit.doc (263.5 KB, 37 views)
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:53 PM   #8
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WOW...this is a different elephant in the room for sure!! Look all around your brake pedal travel area. There could be some wires that have come loose there and the brake pedal is pushing on them when applied and causing a short across a few circuits. Also, if you can find the "brake light switch" that engages the brake lights when the brake pedal travels across it/from it/to it. This may be loose or cross wired with something else. Not familiar with this model cab, but are the headlights controlled by a separate dash switch or are they on a multi-function knob on the steering column (turn signal lever)? Does this happen on any stop or a just when stopping and using turn signals?
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:05 PM   #9
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Cool

I've got a hunch - and it's ONLY a hunch - you're going to find it's a ground problem. I've seen all sorts of weird things happen from a loose or corroded ground. And this definitely qualifies as weird.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:21 PM   #10
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I am chasing the same thing on my 2015 Challenger. Haven't had time to chase the issue with a multimeter. I am fairly certain it will be a ground wire issue
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:35 PM   #11
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I'll try reposting my old F53 headlight circuit diagram as a jpg not doc even though Libreoffice handles it as a document; Word does not. It may still provide some value regarding the generic wiring for the high beam dash lamp and high beam headlights.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:12 PM   #12
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That's from 2004...I think the headlamps burned kerosene back then and the brake lights were nothing but a hand out the window in the up position.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:22 PM   #13
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
...and the brake lights were nothing but a hand out the window in the up position.
No, that was for a right turn. Stopping was hand down.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:25 PM   #14
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THOR #14675
Thanks a bunch guys. Y’all have really been a source of great areas to look into. I think I will look into the brake pedal area, battery connections, grounds in cab and engine bay and take a close look at the lighting schematic by a Javelin. I am very capable of reading and understanding them and was presently trying to find one on line. BTW the headlight switch is a stand alone old style rotary knob on the dash. The brights are typical operated from pulling or pushing on the multi-stick switch off the steering column.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:40 PM   #15
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Yikes Julius....sounds eerily like that old F53 schematic.


Sometimes old things are hard to improve on especially when it costs manufacturers money and profit......where would we be without the lowly wheel?
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Popfla View Post
No, that was for a right turn. Stopping was hand down.

You passed the "how old are you?" test!! I even remember when cars only had one taillight!!
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:03 AM   #17
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What happened?

I am having the same problem, I assume it’s a bad ground somewhere. What did you end up figuring out?
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Old 08-12-2019, 03:30 AM   #18
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FIXED. IT WAS a bad ground on the drivers side inside the front swing hood engine compartment. It was just a loose grounding bolt.
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:03 AM   #19
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Glad you found that strange problem......and posted the solution. Sounds like there were a few other folks in the same boat.
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