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Old 11-25-2018, 04:09 PM   #1
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Thor Axis improvements

We have made improvements to our Thor Axis with the help of this forum. Put a battery tender on, insulated inside engine hood, table for steering wheel, changed out couch with recliners and installed arc shower rod.

Thanks and keep posting ideas to help improve our "home on wheels"!

Dave & Gail
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:31 PM   #2
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Looks great!

I been thinking of installing a steering wheel table as well some day. I like the idea of having a lamp (like you have) with soft light at nightime when your relaxing or watching TV.

I love the recliners too. Might do that down the road but rigth now we are enjoying the dinette.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:08 PM   #3
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The table works great for that.
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:52 PM   #4
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Tell me about your half window curtains in your cockpit. Looks like the are insulated? Do you have the other curtains for privacy?

Not a bad Idea to help with heat/Sun when driving or limit the sun while sitting.
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:04 PM   #5
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No they are not insulated, it is a quilted material and yes it's great when driving to keep the sun out. We have a full front shade that comes down to have the privacy on the front window. I used a light weight guilted material that hangs heavier than regular material and sewed it to the existing curtain. I got the clips, the role type from Camping World and attached a loop to the curtain extension.The extra material I made a dash cover to protect it from the sun damage.
Hope this helps
Gail
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:08 PM   #6
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Thanks, I like that Idea. I also like the dash cover. Can you take more pictures of your dash?

Doe that help with the reflections from the dash up to the windows.
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Old 11-26-2018, 04:03 PM   #7
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Dash cover

We don't use the Dash cover when driving, only when we are camping or when the RVs is in storage, to protect the dash. Some of the pictures show how we have our front setup, steering wheel table, Center of window table and what we called the dining room table. As you can see there's a TV on the center table, the person in the seat with their back to the door cannot see the TV over the door so that's why we put it there.
Hope this helps
Dave & Gail
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Old 11-26-2018, 04:15 PM   #8
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Looks great.

I installed a Moreride TV bracket last spring. It alows us to pull the TV out from the OEM position (over the door) about 18 inches and then left or right as far as we can go before hitting something (as well as up and down some).

So we can see the TV from the captains chairs or dinning room area just fine then push back and it locks in place for driving. I dont understand why it was not like this from factory.

I love your tables. You have lots of them. Do you have a Tables for for your Tables? LOL. Did you put any tables in the bedroom or outside.

I been thinking about making an outside table that hooks to the rear tires for support Someone posted a pic of this before. Dont take up any room and you can use it for a prep table when cooking outside.

I love seeing new Ideas .... esp home made.

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2018, 12:43 PM   #9
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Looks very good!

Can I ask what model of shower rod?
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Old 11-27-2018, 12:53 PM   #10
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http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1543326779
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggs View Post
Looks very good!

Can I ask what model of shower rod?
That is an "ARC Shower rod".
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:40 PM   #12
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THOR #2981
shower arc rod for Thor Axis 24.1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggs View Post
Looks very good!

Can I ask what model of shower rod?
Here is part on Amazon: Arcs & Angles HBA00KIT036 The Arc Curved Shower Bar, Stainless Steel, 60"

I'm also including installation instructions that we followed and it worked out great.

SHOWER ROD MODIFICATION
One of the constant complaints from 2014-2015 Axis/Vegas 24.1 owners is the size of the shower area. The biggest annoyance about the size is how the shower curtain liner tends to stick to the wet body whenever you turn around in the shower. Thor recognized these owner complaints, and beginning in 2016 replaced the roof mounted shower curtain track with and cantilevered ARC track. The arc track allows the shower curtain to stand out from the shower pan about 6-8.” This keeps the shower curtain away from your wet body while still maintaining the small footprint of the shower pan.

After seeing the new Thor 2016 design, several owners of 2014 – 2015 Axis/Vegas 24.1s explored replacing their existing shower curtain tracks with the new 2016-17 Arc track. What follows is a compilation of this modification based on the collective inputs of several Axis/Vegas owners from the Thor Forum based on this forum thread: Shower Rod 2016 Axis 24.1. (Thanks to Vkb (Ron & Kay), DocMike, Squid, JamieGeek)

1. Drilling – this modification involves a procedure that puts fear into the heart of Axis/Vegas owners; namely, drilling into the interior wall surface. The procedure will involve drilling either 2 or 3 holes for each mounting bracket of the cantilevered Arc track. The exterior wall of an Axis/Vegas is comprised of an outer fiberglass surface covering a thin luan plywood sheathing. There is an approximate 1” space filled with block Styrofoam insulation and finally the interior wall surface made up of thin aluminum sheeting covered with an interior “wallpaper” covering. When drilling the interior surface start with an approximate 1/16” pilot hole to penetrate the interior sheeting ONLY. Do not exert too much pressure – you do not want to lose control of the drill and penetrate completely through the entire wall putting a hole in the exterior fiberglass surface. More on this later.

2. Thor Parts – the cantilevered Arc rod can be obtained from Thor through your dealer. It is Thor part number 0340281. The cost is approximately $70 plus shipping and handling. This part number does not include the hardware or mounting brackets. Vkb ordered the brackets from Focus (1-866-290-1851) item number HBA00NCID91, "ARC Mounting brackets - brushed finish/pa. He does not remember the price. In addition, you will still have to obtain screws and or molly bolts. In all the cost would be around $100.

3. Alternate Parts Source -- Squid found a more practical Arc rod on Amazon (Amazon Arc Curtain Rod) for $55. The package contained the rod, two brackets and assorted mounting hardware, to include Molly bolts. The description that follows uses the Amazon Arc rod.

4. Measuring to Mount Rod – Vkb provided pictures of his installation with measurements. The distance from the bottom of the mounting bracket (both sides) to top edge of the fiberglass shower enclosure is 2 1/2”. Left hand bracket to the edge of the medicine cabinet is 2 3/8”. Distance from edge of bracket to edge of cabinet above toilet is 3”. After marking where both brackets go, also mark the location of the mounting holes. Before drilling the holes for the mounting brackets the rod has to be cut to length. The rod in the Amazon kit is 60” long. Cut its length to 52”, insert the ends in the mounting brackets, and check the locations where the mounting brackets are marked.

5. Drilling Holes and Mounting Hardware – Drill pilot holes at the location of each mount hole. Use a 1/16” drill bit as noted above to determine thickness of interior sheathing and also to determine if there is an aluminum wall “stud” behind the sheathing where any of the holes are drilled. DocMike provides the following guidance. He checked with Thor Customer Service asking where the power or water lines are located in the wall:

“The power lines are run lower in the walls and behind the drawers and cabinets. I used the toggle bolts, shortened to 1 1/2 inches (as recommended by Thor's tech). Where I hit the aluminum stud there on the outside wall I used two self-tapping 1 1/4 inch metal screws. Getting the Teflon plugs (used to seal the holes cut in the wall with the back of the mounting bracket) was easy for 5 out of 6, one required a bit of twitching and cursing to get it to line up - but it did. Oh yeah, if you hit the stud and choose to mount to the metal stud you will need to shave the length of the two Teflon plugs that fill in the hole drilled for the toggle bolt or else the bracket will not fit flush against the wall...when you first try putting it together. Get the 72 inch length curtain and if you mount it as Ron showed his (bottom of the bracket 2 1/8" above the top of the plastic shower wall) all will be well. It has been noted that some mounts have 3 holes and some 2 holes. During my install the mounts on the wall between the bathroom and bedroom were not too much of a problem after shortening the toggle bolts as much as I could. I also backed some paper towel into the hole and below it than squirted in a blob of clear silicone caulk before the final assembly...wanted to be sure to make it water tight. The outside wall just has little Styrofoam particles that exist behind the thin wall board surface. I used the one toggle bolt and two self-tapping metal screws (since I did manage to hit one of the wall studs) also used caulk blobbed in to help secure a sealed fit with the Teflon plugs. It passed the inspection by the DW this weekend but she want a prettier curtain - plain white did not work for her. The caulking was a little messy and probably not really needed.”

JamieGeek cut off 8” from the rod and provided the following mounting guidance:

“I hacked off 8" off one side to get a more satisfactory arc. I ended up having to use the toggle bolts on either side (there was no stud in that spot). I did pick up some 1 1/2" 6-32 screws for the toggle bolts but they turned out to be too short: They didn't go far enough through the wall to allow the bolts to open up (really needed at least 2" screws). So I got out my dremel and trimmed down the 4" screws that came with the mounts to a length that would fit all the way through the wall but no further (measured using the mount and seeing how big of a gap was there between the mount & the wall when I hit the other side of the wall with the bolts). There is aluminum framing on the outside walls but that framing simply consists of aluminum studs spaced throughout the walls. If you don't happen to hit one (like I didn't) then you're left dealing with the wall board, insulation, outer wall sandwich. The insulation is Styrofoam. When I drilled into the wall I pulled out a bunch of insulation. I believe the toggle bolts on the outside wall opened up as I could feel the screws tighten down (my suspicion is that they opened up and compressed a bunch of the foam down against the inside wallboard). The wallboard is very thin, probably about 3/16" or so. I wouldn't try supporting anything very heavy. The ARC is solid aluminum and not very heavy -- the shower curtain we put on it is much heavier than the ARC itself. Normally when I attach things to the camper wall I use wood screws dipped in wood glue with a small pilot hole drilled in the wall. So far nothing that I have put up in this manner has fallen off the wall but nothing has been as heavy or substantial as a shower rod. I did use this method to hold up some day/night shades and the chord tie downs at the bottom which stayed up for as long as we had that camper (our old 5th wheel). For the shower rod Doc mentioned that Thor had recommended the toggle bolts which is why I went with that method.”

The finished product provides about 6 to 8” of additional space inside the shower. The shower curtain is still inside the shower pan at the bottom so that water does not get on the floor. You do have to be careful you don’t step on the bottom of the curtain or that small children pull down on the curtain. Remember it is cantilevered and not supported in the middle like the OEM installation.
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:14 PM   #13
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Steering wheel table?

Could someone step me thru this concept. I am lost!
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Old 12-01-2018, 11:26 PM   #14
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Tomorrow

Just notice your question, I will take a picture of the bottom of the table tomorrow and you will see how easy it is to do.
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:49 PM   #15
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Steering wheel table

Here are some pictures of the steering wheel table. The hook is a wall hook that places over the steering wheel.and the long piece of wood stabilizes it on the dash. The round table is available at Lowes and Home Depot, they come in 12" and 24" inch round.

We find it nice to have a lamp on instead of the RV lights -- more homey.

Dave Nye
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:24 AM   #16
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I've just had led's fitted behind the pelmets above the sink and sofa and also along the front blind and below the dash. Each one is switched independently so you can choose the ambience somewhat, much nicer than the bright, harsh overhead lighting.
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulH View Post
I've just had led's fitted behind the pelmets above the sink and sofa and also along the front blind and below the dash. Each one is switched independently so you can choose the ambience somewhat, much nicer than the bright, harsh overhead lighting.
Are they wired in to coach or run off of like Double A size battery? I would like to do something like this as well. More info please.
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulH View Post
I've just had led's fitted behind the pelmets above the sink and sofa and also along the front blind and below the dash. Each one is switched independently so you can choose the ambience somewhat, much nicer than the bright, harsh overhead lighting.
Sounds good. Any photos?
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Old 12-03-2018, 03:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Are they wired in to coach or run off of like Double A size battery? I would like to do something like this as well. More info please.
I did a test first with the cheap, battery ones just to see the result, it was great, so then I fitted a switch behind the square switches for the pelmets led's. For the led's below the dash and above the windscreen I put switches on the dash board to the right of the steering column. Power for the pelmet ones I took from the under cupboard lights, just gently lift the panel inside the cupboard to access. Power for the dash lights was easy, plenty of wire under there to take from, the hardest part was routing the wire up thru the left front pillar, it was full of foam at the base. I'll see if I can get some pics as I'm very pleased with the result.
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