Thor Super C Full Wall Slide issues

[The Gritz Carlton]

..."I was told that the slide among several other things noted would be repaired during the PDI after I buy?"...

Basically he's saying..."our service sucks and it's more important for me to get paid my commission ASAP. That's way more important to me than you or this MH working properly."


If you can't get decent service before the sale, what makes one think service would even be existent after the sale? I think I would have done him a favor by telling him just how stupid he is and walked off the lot.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Cwray

Just had our 1st trip of the new year with our 34J 2019 Hurricane that we bought mid-July last year and our full slide stuck out and froze in the extended position in out home drive way. Luckily, I had the foresight to pull our cars out of the garage beforehand. So, now we’re stuck with this 36’ beast in our subdivision, parked in front of our house until next Monday (6 days) before we can pay someone to tow it to our dealer.

We had someone come out via Coach-Net to manually get the slide in and locked before driving it back to the dealer. I wasn’t around, but the tech said it was jammed (only can move an inch before throwing a 2-green, 8-red error) and it couldn’t be done. It would need to be towed with the full slide extended. This sounds like a disaster in the making with further damage being done to alignment or frame due to it being towed 45 minutes down country roads to the dealer.

Am I wrong?

The guide posted above makes me think that there is indeed a way to disengage the motors that the tech didn’t know about. I’m wondering if I should take matters into my own hands and see if I can find those things and do that part myself.

Any thoughts? Much more knowledge and experience here than what I think I’ve been getting over phone calls, unfortunately.

There are two ways to get a in-wall slide back in. Easiest is to disconnect the motor wiring harness from the controller. If the slide is in an intermediate position and the motors have not stalled-out the slide can be pushed in by two pr three people. It is difficult because you are still turning the electric motors and their gear reduction systems. Use a manual slide lock or replace the wiring on the controller to keep the slide in during travel. Second is to remove the locking screw on each motor and lift the motor up to disengage the motor's gear reduction splines from the drive shaft. This will allow the slide to float on the rollers and can be moved by one person. If the slide was jammed due to a non-op motor this is the only way to free a slide. You MUST use the manual slide lock if you are going to move the coach. These operations are explained on Lippert's Youtube videos.

Lippert Components ships 150,000 in wall slide systems world wide each year. The failure rate requiring new parts is 0.08% for years 2016/7.

[dkoldman]

[RIGHT]

Originally Posted by Beau388

Lippert Components ships 150,000 in wall slide systems world wide each year. The failure rate requiring new parts is 0.08% for years 2016/7.

If your numbers are right and my math is correct that says 6,000 units failed per unit. If I assume each is one customer and average repair cost is $1,500; then it says it cost $9,000,000 per year to fix this problem.

If RV Mfgs charged $120 more for every unit sold. They could pay for every one of the repairs and make every customer feel happy and make this nightmare go away. At least from consumer perspective. RV Mfg still need to work sith Lippert to improve their quality as the failure rate is grossly unacceptable.

That my take based on the ROM numbers I have to play with.

[bevedfelker]

I spoke to a Schwintek-Lippert tech rep at the Hershey RV show last year about their slide systems (also used in Thor's electric bunk over the driver/passenger). He said probably 80% of the problems encountered with their systems are from "owner induced" errors. He stated that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER partially open a slide or partially lower an electric bunk. This will eventually lead to motors getting out of sync and then that will result in asymetrical loading on the drive gears -- and could eventually lead to burning out a motor.

He said when operating the slide or bunk (putting it out, retracting it, lowering or raising the bunk), hold the switch until the slide or bunk goes full travel and the motors stop -- but continue to hold the switch for about 5 seconds after the motors stop. This keeps the motors in sync.

[Miramar Owner]

150,000 times 0.08% is 120 units

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by bevedfelker

I spoke to a Schwintek-Lippert tech rep at the Hershey RV show last year about their slide systems (also used in Thor's electric bunk over the driver/passenger). He said probably 80% of the problems encountered with their systems are from "owner induced" errors. He stated that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER partially open a slide or partially lower an electric bunk. This will eventually lead to motors getting out of sync and then that will result in asymetrical loading on the drive gears -- and could eventually lead to burning out a motor.

He said when operating the slide or bunk (putting it out, retracting it, lowering or raising the bunk), hold the switch until the slide or bunk goes full travel and the motors stop -- but continue to hold the switch for about 5 seconds after the motors stop. This keeps the motors in sync.

If true and I have no reason to believe it is not, then it is 80% fault of mfg as system should NOT allow you to stop once the button has been pressed to extend or retract. This is basic foolproofing engineering. The Japanese call it pokeyoke.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Miramar Owner

150,000 times 0.08% is 120 units

Then that math makes the fix even easier.

Ok lets go with 120 units failed per 2 years. That means only 60 units fail per year out of 150,000 sold. If we assume each is customer average repair cost is $1,500; then it says it cost $90,000 per year to fix this problem.

If RV Mfgs charged $ .60 cents more for every unit sold. They could pay for every one of the repairs and make every customer feel happy and make this nightmare go away. At least from consumer perspective. I doubt very seriously that $90,000 in defects / year is causing that much havoc in the industry? That is equivalent to just 15 ESP plans paid out at average of $6k.

As we say say in Texas, "Houston we got a problem". Something is wrong, and the person(s) making the money is not anxious to fix it.

[The Gritz Carlton]

..."He stated that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER partially open a slide or partially lower an electric bunk. This will eventually lead to motors getting out of sync and then that will result in asymmetrical loading on the drive gears -- and could eventually lead to burning out a motor"...

This is very true...however...in order to winterize my unit...you have to slide the passenger side, bed slide out half way to access the water valve and antifreeze port. There's no other option. Many issues people have are how the body is built around the components. I also have to blindly reach the water heater, repositioning furnace duct work to reach the 3 valves for bypass. It's a 5 band-aid function. As these issues surface, hopefully Thor will read them, take them to heart and incorporate solutions into future designs.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

[RIGHT]

If your numbers are right and my math is correct that says 6,000 units failed per unit. If I assume each is one customer and average repair cost is $1,500; then it says it cost $9,000,000 per year to fix this problem.

If RV Mfgs charged $120 more for every unit sold. They could pay for every one of the repairs and make every customer feel happy and make this nightmare go away. At least from consumer perspective. RV Mfg still need to work sith Lippert to improve their quality as the failure rate is grossly unacceptable.

That my take based on the ROM numbers I have to play with.

0.08% = 0.0008x 150,000= 120

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

0.08% = 0.0008x 150,000= 120

I assume you didn't see / read my response earlier?

0.0008 makes the math for the fix even easier. If defect rate is that low, it would be very CHEAP to eradicate one of the biggest reason most ordinary folks are scared to buy RV's. But the alternative I guess is make at least half the so called 99.9992 that will not have failures be scared enough to pay $6k or so for ESP.

Regardless, from my post earlier with the corrected failure rate.

Ok lets go with 120 units failed per 2 years. That means only 60 units fail per year out of 150,000 sold. If we assume each is customer average repair cost is $1,500; then it says it cost $90,000 per year to fix this problem.

If RV Mfgs charged $ .60 cents more for every unit sold. They could pay for every one of the repairs and make every customer feel happy and make this nightmare go away. At least from consumer perspective. I doubt very seriously that $90,000 in defects / year is causing that much havoc in the industry? That is equivalent to just 15 ESP plans paid out at average of $6k.

As we say say in Texas, "Houston we got a problem". Something is wrong, and the person(s) making the money is not anxious to fix it.

[pstandiford]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

..."He stated that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER partially open a slide or partially lower an electric bunk. This will eventually lead to motors getting out of sync and then that will result in asymmetrical loading on the drive gears -- and could eventually lead to burning out a motor"...

This is very true...however...in order to winterize my unit...you have to slide the passenger side, bed slide out half way to access the water valve and antifreeze port. There's no other option. Many issues people have are how the body is built around the components. I also have to blindly reach the water heater, repositioning furnace duct work to reach the 3 valves for bypass. It's a 5 band-aid function. As these issues surface, hopefully Thor will read them, take them to heart and incorporate solutions into future designs.

Hey Gritz, I had an issue with the furnace ducts coming off the furnace. When I took it to the dealer they discovered that the ducts were also crushed in several spots. They rerouted them and now the ducts are no longer in front of the water heater. Piece of cake to turn the valves now. I can reach them by removing the two drawers in the peninsula. Also, I made a modification on the bed. I cut part of the paneling on the right side of the bed so that it can be removed. Now I can reach the valve anytime I need to. That was the only way I could find to get to the water valve and antifreeze port. I didn’t even think about just opening the bed slide part way.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Paul...net chance you get, stick your phone back in there and get some pictures of how they re-routed the duct work. that area really sucks for space. i may have pulled some loose by routing my hands down and under all that spaghetti. I thought about cutting the side board also for the winterizing but moving the bed out works OK. It's a small slide so it probably doesn't hurt it so much as stopping the FWS halfway. I've been really fortunate with the slides..."knocks on desk"...to have zero issues. BUT...I don;t load her up like some folks do.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I assume you didn't see / read my response earlier?

0.0008 makes the math for the fix even easier. If defect rate is that low, it would be very CHEAP to eradicate one of the biggest reason most ordinary folks are scared to buy RV's. But the alternative I guess is make at least half the so called 99.9992 that will not have failures be scared enough to pay $6k or so for ESP.

Regardless, from my post earlier with the corrected failure rate.

Ok lets go with 120 units failed per 2 years. That means only 60 units fail per year out of 150,000 sold. If we assume each is customer average repair cost is $1,500; then it says it cost $90,000 per year to fix this problem.

If RV Mfgs charged $ .60 cents more for every unit sold. They could pay for every one of the repairs and make every customer feel happy and make this nightmare go away. At least from consumer perspective. I doubt very seriously that $90,000 in defects / year is causing that much havoc in the industry? That is equivalent to just 15 ESP plans paid out at average of $6k.

As we say say in Texas, "Houston we got a problem". Something is wrong, and the person(s) making the money is not anxious to fix it.

I just toured the Entergra factory in Middlebury, IN. They sell all coaches with a two year full warranty with Spartan independent front suspension. Beautiful full paint coach with all the amenities. I suggest you buy one if you want a coach with few if any slide problems. They use a hydraulic powered rack, flush floor slide. After it is made by Thor Inc. They turn out 10 coaches a week and the 2020 coaches are better than ever and more reliable.

[Glensouth]

I had trouble with the full wall slide not wanting to go out. Dealer installed new motors and still wouldn’t go out. They finally replaced the year old batteries and it has worked right since. I guess they didn’t check for low voltage before replacing the motors. Mine is four winds 35sf.

[Glensouth]

Grits, I have a super C that is just like yours. When I hit a bump I hear a very loud pop in the overhead. There isn’t anything loose in the overhead entertainment center or storage compartments. The only thing I can think of is the fiberglass cap flexing. I have talked with factory and they never heard of this. Do you have this problem?

[rudyhehn]

In order to push in the slides manually, you have to disconnect the motors. To do this, use a ladder and access the motor from the outside. The cylindrical motor on my RV is at the top of the slide, behind the rubber gasket next to the slide wall. Use a screw driver, and unscrew the Retaining screws. Then pry the motor upwards from the connecting rod. The slide will now be free to push in. You need to fabricate a brace to keep it in place while traveling to the shop.

[CLBeerbower]

Originally Posted by Glensouth

I had trouble with the full wall slide not wanting to go out. Dealer installed new motors and still wouldn’t go out. They finally replaced the year old batteries and it has worked right since. I guess they didn’t check for low voltage before replacing the motors. Mine is four winds 35sf.

Thanks. I made the dealership replace my batteries when I bought the coach and they are reading 13.2 now that I tightened everything up in the battery compartment so I don’t think that is my issue. However thanks for the comment and I am glad you got your issue resolved.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Glensouth

I had trouble with the full wall slide not wanting to go out. Dealer installed new motors and still wouldn’t go out. They finally replaced the year old batteries and it has worked right since. I guess they didn’t check for low voltage before replacing the motors. Mine is four winds 35sf.

I wouldn't rule out you had two problems and issues with both? Although electronics can do odd things when not powered properly. i.e. I had purchased two brand new OEM remote keys for Camaro from dealer and they both appeared to work; so I left thinking all was fine. Then I noticed one of the remotes when you lock doors twice did not toot the horn. It was annoying because one did and the other didn't. I like to know for sure my doors are locked as I walk away.

Voltage for both batteries showed 3.2v. Finally I said what the heck, I put in new Sony 3.2v battery and presto problem solved. Somewhere in there is a lesson that voltage and current are two different things. Improper current (amperage) can damage equipment or at least may it behave improperly.

[Cwray]

For my issue, where the slide was stuck 3” from fully extended and the service tech came, said that something was jammed and I should tow it that way back to the dealer—I resolved that issue myself and didn’t tow it like I was told to.

Like was posted here earlier , I had to physically disengage both motors. For the Hurricane, the outside rubber sealing gasket is glued pretty substantially in place and all I could easily access from the outside is the retaining screw. I needed to remove an interior metal plate before I could see the motor and pop it loose. Well, in the front anyway. Doing the same in the back against the back wall with the slide only out a few inches was too much of a p.i.t.a. . I pulled the outside rubber seal down and popped the back motor out that way.

This let me push the 28’ slide in myself—going back and forth front-to-back 2” at a time. I wedged some wood in at the top (being sure to engage the metal lip & not the trim) and drove it back to storage. It goes to the dealer tomorrow morning. Chiropractor for my back, shortly thereafter. :-/

I have pictures of the steps above if people would like to see them. What is shown in Lippert & Thor how-to videos doesn’t line up exactly with what I saw on my Hurricane. That’s what threw me for a loop.

Thanks again for (virtual) support & logic to give me the courage to push (no pun intended) on my own. Towing this beast with the slide open would have been a disaster and I suspect the end on my RV’ing days. I seriously doubt I would have survived the finger pointing that Thor/Dealer/service company/Coach-Net would do when asked to pay for a wrecked 2019 RV on the side of the road because I did what I was told.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Cwray

This let me push the 28’ slide in myself—going back and forth front-to-back 2” at a time. I wedged some wood in at the top (being sure to engage the metal lip & not the trim) and drove it back to storage. It goes to the dealer tomorrow morning. Chiropractor for my back, shortly thereafter. :-/

I have pictures of the steps above if people would like to see them. What is shown in Lippert & Thor how-to videos doesn’t line up exactly with what I saw on my Hurricane.

Kudos to you, you wouldn't have that 34J beast unless you knew what you were doing. I just don't give Thor, Lippert or ANYONE in the industry a pass on this problem with slides. It should not be customer issue on the back of some $6k ESP. The industry should mandate reliability improvements year over year. Until then, offer free service to ANY customer that is stranded due to slide being stuck out anywhere in the US. Some defend the industry and say this is very small problem, well if true it should be easy for the industry to foot the cost to make everyone have peace of mind. I promise sales will increase. A lot of factors for why the industry is in slump, but like it only takes a few winners on the slot machines to make everyone want to play, it only take a few problems with slides to make everyone spooked to buy. The industry has got to stop blaming customer's for slide issues. Take responsibility for a poorly designed product. Quality is defined as fitness for use. Does no good for new RV to leave the factory with all specifications in order if it is NOT fit for customer to safely use. Imagine if every time you roll down a window in car; it had to be all the way or you risk getting it out of sync or damaging motor. Or you had to be sure to hold the button until the window was completely down or up and then two secs thereafter?

FWIW & IMO... Lots of folks going to Indiana. Maybe it is time to talk to Executives that run the companies versus cutting deals and being satisfied with their apparent low hourly rates to service repairs?