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Old 06-18-2017, 12:28 PM   #21
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If your coach is still under warranty, I would take it in. If not and you feel like messing with it, drop all ac and dc power and see if you can find where the short or loose connect is located.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:20 PM   #22
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I believe that Thor should issue a recall on their water heater installations. Clearly wiring problems are causing the same issues in a significant number of Thor motor homes. Maybe a couple of coaches have to burn up to get their attention. I lost over a month of use of my coach while the dealer had it 3 times to fix this one problem.

If I have another problem with the water heater, I am going to take it out and install an outlet and plugin power cord to eliminate stress on the 110v wires.
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:55 PM   #23
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THOR #6576
2014 Vegas 24.1: FIRE HAZARD Burnt, Melted, Wire Nuts in Junction Near Generator

As spring approached last week, I decided to exercise the generator on my 2014 Thor Vegas 24.1. I parked it in my driveway, not connected to shore power.

I started the generator and let it run for about ten minutes. To put a load on it, I turned on the air conditioner (AC). It ran for about ten minutes when the AC suddenly stopped working. I also noticed that the digital display on the microwave was not on, an indication that the AC wasnít the only appliance that wasnít getting alternating current power, despite the generator running.

I checked the breaker beneath the refrigerator and on the generator, neither of which tripped. I recycled the breakers, which also didnít remedy the issue. After spending a couple of hours trying to diagnose the problem, I gave up and resigned myself to the fact that I needed professional help to diagnose the problem. I had to take it in for an oil change anyway, so I asked my mechanic to diagnose the issue.

Two hours of labor later, at the cost of $190, my mechanic identified the probable cause. There is an electrical junction box, underneath the RV; just forward of the generator. Opening it revealed burnt, melted plastic wire nuts, electrical tape, and wires.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:04 PM   #24
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Did your mechanic give an opinion as to the cause. Usually, on this forum the cause for that mess is improperly connected wire nuts as in they weren't twisted together well to begin with and the wire nuts came loose. Was that it?
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:08 PM   #25
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Glad you found it at home instead of on a trip.
Thanks for the heads up on another show stopping area to check for loose connections.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:15 PM   #26
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Wow,

If this NC Winter ever ends I will surely need to add this junction box as a need to check on the annual spring check list.

Thanks.

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Old 03-24-2018, 01:17 PM   #27
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All described issues a very good reason to also carry maybe a couple of good size dry chemical fire extinguishers rather than the little junky one that comes with the coach.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:21 PM   #28
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He didn't opine one way or another but mentioned there were Internet posts about loose connections. I haven't had it repaired yet as I investigate further.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:24 PM   #29
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This is the reason I don't like wire nuts. It takes time to make a proper mechanical connection, twist the wire together tightly, and use the proper size wire nuts. To many times the short cut of laying the bare ends together and twisting wire nuts on is taken. This results in a high resistance connection which will allow heat to build up with a possible fire the result.
With solid wire butt splices can result in wire breakage from vibration. The best method is terminal strips but this adds to the cost.
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:27 PM   #30
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Repair completed and opinion

I completed a temporary repair using crimp butt splices until I can go with a terminal strip or block as suggested by scrubjaysnest.

After I made the repair, I looked at the open junction box with the generator running and I noticed a steady vibration of the box and wires inside, certainly caused by its close proximity to the generator mount. As suggested on this site, the vibration appears to have caused the two black wires to vibrate loose and burn through the wire nut.

Shame on Thor Motorcoach for placing their bottom line before their customer's safety. The cost difference between wire nuts and a better connection method is mere pennies. This is probably the final straw in a long list of issues I've had with this coach that will make sure that my next motorhome is not a Thor product.
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Old 03-25-2018, 02:01 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisingerd View Post
I completed a temporary repair using crimp butt splices until I can go with a terminal strip or block as suggested by scrubjaysnest.

After I made the repair, I looked at the open junction box with the generator running and I noticed a steady vibration of the box and wires inside, certainly caused by its close proximity to the generator mount. As suggested on this site, the vibration appears to have caused the two black wires to vibrate loose and burn through the wire nut.

Shame on Thor Motorcoach for placing their bottom line before their customer's safety. The cost difference between wire nuts and a better connection method is mere pennies. This is probably the final straw in a long list of issues I've had with this coach that will make sure that my next motorhome is not a Thor product.
In one of my posts I talked about when they built my house the Service Company never tighten my neutral wire to the house. What saved my house was a surge protector panel guard as seen in the photo.
The old one was so fried I took it apart to see what it looked like. Inside the junction box they filled it with silica sand to suppress anything from starting on fire. Wondering if I should start doing that with the hot water heater and generator boxes?Attachment 9465
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:35 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by revjeffrey View Post
... Wondering if I should start doing that with the hot water heater and generator boxes?Attachment 9465
@revjeffrey- No need for sand. Replace wirenuts with insulated crimp connectors. The tape in the photos was to not allow loosening. Obviously that's useless with a bad splice.
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisingerd View Post
As spring approached last week, I decided to exercise the generator on my 2014 Thor Vegas 24.1. I parked it in my driveway, not connected to shore power.

I started the generator and let it run for about ten minutes. To put a load on it, I turned on the air conditioner (AC). It ran for about ten minutes when the AC suddenly stopped working. I also noticed that the digital display on the microwave was not on, an indication that the AC wasn’t the only appliance that wasn’t getting alternating current power, despite the generator running.

I checked the breaker beneath the refrigerator and on the generator, neither of which tripped. I recycled the breakers, which also didn’t remedy the issue. After spending a couple of hours trying to diagnose the problem, I gave up and resigned myself to the fact that I needed professional help to diagnose the problem. I had to take it in for an oil change anyway, so I asked my mechanic to diagnose the issue.

Two hours of labor later, at the cost of $190, my mechanic identified the probable cause. There is an electrical junction box, underneath the RV; just forward of the generator. Opening it revealed burnt, melted plastic wire nuts, electrical tape, and wires.
I just had the exact same issue. It took me a bit of time to figure out but saw the box was melted.

I purchased a new box that had the strain relief caps screw directly into them from home depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BELL-1-G...0GYB/202284546

I cut back the wire housing conduit so I had a lot more wire to work on both sides (generator-stranded and transfer switch solid).
I used 2 inches heat shrink tubing to hold the wires togheter and stopped right before the exposed wire. I then used a grey sized wire nut, which seemed to be the appropriate size as i think the red wire nut was too large. I then used electrical tape to ensure that the wire nut does not vibrate loose.
I also went and double checked and re-taped the wire nuts inside the automatic transfer switch.
Also- people should know that the generator has a circuit breaker- right of the start/stop switch.
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Old 07-25-2019, 03:26 PM   #34
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As an extra precaution, if possible, when using wire nuts to connect stranded wires, and especially stranded wire to solid copper, it is best to solder the wires after twisting together, and then install the wire nuts and tape.
Wire nuts have a tendency to cut thru stranded wires and lose conductivity resulting in wire overheating, but usually don't cut thru the solder.
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Old 07-25-2019, 03:34 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by mcr1010 View Post
As an extra precaution, if possible, when using wire nuts to connect stranded wires, and especially stranded wire to solid copper, it is best to solder the wires after twisting together, and then install the wire nuts and tape.
Wire nuts have a tendency to cut thru stranded wires and lose conductivity resulting in wire overheating, but usually don't cut thru the solder.
Good point- i am not great at soldering, especially laying on my back over head, so i decided to not do that. I think the new junction box and the shrink tight will reduce the chance of vibration loosening the wire nut. I will periodically re-check the wire nuts though and might solder them in the future.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:18 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by gte534j View Post
Good point- i am not great at soldering, especially laying on my back over head, so i decided to not do that. I think the new junction box and the shrink tight will reduce the chance of vibration loosening the wire nut. I will periodically re-check the wire nuts though and might solder them in the future.
I'd suggest insulated crimp connectors. No vibration, no cuts, and no PITA solder.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:51 PM   #37
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I'd suggest insulated crimp connectors. No vibration, no cuts, and no PITA solder.
Good suggestion- the description below says its OK to use closed end crimp connectors for solid and stranded wire. If i have problems with the twist connector i will replace it with this:

https://www.wiringproducts.com/closed-end-connectors

Closed end connectors are crimp-able for a quick, inexpensive, easy and permanent electrical connection of two or more wires. The outer insulating shell of the connector is made from nylon and houses a small tinned copper barrel. You simply insert your wires all the way into the closed end connector and crimp around the barrel using any standard wire crimpers. The connectors are able to connect multiple wires together and work well on both stranded and solid core wire. You can seal up the connector using dual wall heat shrink with adhesive, or you can wrap it with standard electrical tape. The maximum voltage rating for closed end connectors is 300 volts.
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:20 PM   #38
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faulty wireing 2016 axis waterheater

Quote:
Originally Posted by nosticks View Post
For inquiring minds, here is what I found.

The black plastic electrical box containing the 110v wiring and the 12v relay was so badly melted that I had to cut it out with snips. The white (hot) 110v wire and what was left of the wire nut had fused itself to the inside of the electrical box. The white wire had melted insulation for about 3Ē from the tip. All other wires were undamaged, although I had to cut some to remove the melted box. I removed the wire nut on the neutral (black) wire and found what I think contributed to the problem. The black wire had only about 1/8Ē stripped from the end and was jammed in the wire nut without twisting the wires together first. The connection was not very secure. I suspect the white nut was the same. I also think the wire nut technician needs some remedial training.

The relay still functioned so I rewired everything using butt connectors. I tested both electric operation and gas operation. The water heater cycled as it should. Iím off to buy two good smoke alarms to replace the original $1.98 one that did not work for me when needed.

As a final note, I know I mentioned there are many novice and first time rv owners out there, let me just say to you, just because you donít have a Four Winds 22e, or a Vegas/Axis 25.1 doesnít mean this does not apply to you. Itís about safe practices in the manufacturing process and things that can go wrong along the way. Check those connections.

I just looked up water heater as my electrical water heater was not working. My wife thought she smelled something like an electrical smell that was 3 days age at another camp site. I went to the access panel and low and behold the wires in the connection box on the water heater (I think it is the relay connection wires that) have all the insulation melted.
the Axis has just over 10,000 miles on it, (2016 24.1).. to complicate matters we are 3,000 miles from home. with 4,000 left to go. Canada is a huge country.
it is August 16th 2019 so all owners beware!!


I have tools and some technical knowledge, I just need to find the parts. The good news is we are at my sons for a few days. before heading to Vancouver.


I will post pictures and send Thor a picture asking what the problem is that caused the melting before I try to fix the wires.


Rick
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:32 PM   #39
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Standard electrical practices call for white to be neutral and black (or and other color except green) to be hot. Did Thor wire differently?
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:48 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Tom Bowe View Post
Standard electrical practices call for white to be neutral and black (or and other color except green) to be hot. Did Thor wire differently?
Tom, I got it backwards. White was neutral and black hot, I think I mentioned this before. Still, fire is nothing to mess with. It's the spirit of the warning, not wishing to bring out the electrical police over white/black.
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