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Old 10-06-2018, 03:45 AM   #1
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Time to Winterize your Windsport and Hurricane

It's time to start thinking about the winter prep. Our friends up North can really help make us all smart on winterize with where to find the correct valves, how to line them up and how to add antifreeze the proper way. What is a antifreeze injection point? Where do I start this process, I need help...
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Old 10-06-2018, 12:03 PM   #2
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Find your water pump and water heater. There are quite a few 29M owner's on here I'm sure someone will point you to these locations.

The antifreeze injection point will just be a capped off water line on the intake side of the water pump. Typically if you follow the water line from the intake side of the pump it will go to a T with one side of the T going to the water tank through a valve and the other side to a vertical pipe capped off--this is the antifreeze injection point. You turn off the valve going to the tank, take off the cap and put a hose to a bottle of pink antifreeze. Then when you turn the pump on it will source from the antifreeze bottle instead of the water tank.
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Old 10-06-2018, 12:58 PM   #3
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I winterized mine for the first time last year and it was much easier that I expected. I went to HD and purchased about 5 foot of hose and the correct plastic fitting to screw into this port.

Works great and only take about 30 minutes to complete. I used about 1.5 gallons of RV antifreeze in mine. I think I could have gotten by with one if I was trying.
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Old 10-06-2018, 01:10 PM   #4
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Does anyone use air to blow out lines. Drain water and put antifreeze in traps? I have done this with my pull behind and our Gemini with no issues. Wondering if I will be able to do it with our Windsport 31z.
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Old 10-06-2018, 01:36 PM   #5
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Does anyone use air to blow out lines. Drain water and put antifreeze in traps? I have done this with my pull behind and our Gemini with no issues. Wondering if I will be able to do it with our Windsport 31z.
Yes...That is how I do mine. No antifreeze in the water lines at all, just in the drains.

I first open low point drains, the fresh water tank and the water heater valve. I then hook up my air compressor to the water fill inlet and thoroughly blow out the water heater. Once that is done I turn on the water heater bypass and continue the process one faucet at a time until they are clear. The last item is the ice maker. I set it to make ice and let it work through several cycles until the last one produces a sliver of ice. This takes all day but I just check it every hour or so and dump any ice it makes each cycle. I add a gallon of RV antifreeze to all drains and I'm done. Final note...don't forget the outside kitchen (if you have one) and the toilet.

I leave the faucets 1/2 open. I also leave the valve open (or plug out) of the hot water heater. I do NOT leave the fresher water drain open or the low point drains since I want to make sure nothing crawls into my fresh water. I also take out the water filter and throw it away since I'll be using a new one in the spring and remove the screen filter from the inlet side of the water pump. I reinstall that in the spring as well.

It's very easy to do and the best thing is it is so simple in the spring to fill the tanks without having to flush all that antifreeze. Reinstall the screen to the water pump, install a new filter, close the hot water heater valve, close all faucets, fill the fresh water tank and your good to go.
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Old 10-06-2018, 01:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bfdchief24 View Post
Does anyone use air to blow out lines. Drain water and put antifreeze in traps? I have done this with my pull behind and our Gemini with no issues. Wondering if I will be able to do it with our Windsport 31z.
Iíve used air for many years and have had no problems. The exception to using air is the water pump, no good way to get the water out.

Open all your faucets then open all low point drains until everything is empty then close everything. The water pump is under the rear seat of the dinette, the is a capped stub to use for pulling in antifreeze. I hook up the antifreeze, open the bathroom cold water faucet (itís the closest to the pump) then run the pump until I get pink from the faucet. There are valves at the pump to switch from the water tank to the stub.

I use air to blow out water from everything else, set compressor to 55-60 psi. Donít forget the outside kitchen and shower. When Iím finished with the air I put antifreeze in all the traps, again, donít forget the outside kitchen. Donít forget to run the pump for the outside kitchen sink drain.

I can usually get everything done in about 20-30 min.
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Old 10-06-2018, 01:55 PM   #7
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Ok glad to hear this I donít like putting the pink stuff in the lines. Not sure if I have a built in filter? Will have to do some investigating while Iím trying to locate the fresh water tank drain.
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:25 PM   #8
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The only filter is a mesh strainer on the water pump. The tank drain is in the storage compartment to the left of the stairs, the drain valve is in the upper right hand corner in the back, look for the chrome valve and the blue PEX line.
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Old 10-07-2018, 12:19 PM   #9
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I was going to use air until I read something saying they recommended RV Antifreeze because it keeps the faucet rubber seals soft and compliant. But the air will let them dry out.

Sounds plauseable so I used the antifreeze last winter.

Perhaps if your RV is in storage for longer than 6 mo or a year the Antifreeze will be better? Or over time (5 years +) the accumulated effects of the air will dry out seals?

I dont know - Dont cost much or take much time either way.

You will still need RV antifreeze for the P traps (sink and shower drains) and the holding tanks. Even if empyy I think its good ideal to put a little in both tanks.
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Old 10-07-2018, 12:24 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
I was going to use air until I read something saying they recommended RV Antifreeze because it keeps the faucet rubber seals soft and compliant. But the air will let them dry out.

Sounds plauseable so I used the antifreeze last winter.

Perhaps if your RV is in storage for longer than 6 mo or a year the Antifreeze will be better? Or over time (5 years +) the accumulated effects of the air will dry out seals?

I dont know - Dont cost much or take much time either way.

You will still need RV antifreeze for the P traps (sink and shower drains) and the holding tanks. Even if empyy I think its good ideal to put a little in both tanks.
I guess I just haven't experienced that type of problem. I think hard water can cause more of an issue with these seals. Bottom line, I decided to use air primarily because of the ice maker and love how easy it is to do.
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:55 PM   #11
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Well if you have hard water that makes a difference. I have good city water and I still filter everything before it goes into my tanks.

Perhaps if your storing for longer than a year it would be wise to use RV antifreeze?
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:18 PM   #12
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Should the Gray and Black tanks be as dry as possible as prat of the winterize. I have read the it's best to never leave the black tank empty. Which way do I go!
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:27 PM   #13
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I just empty the tanks as normal including flushing the black tank. Dumping a gallon or two of RV antifreeze through the drains puts enough into your holding tanks to dilute any remaining fluid. I've done this since my first RV in 1983.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:27 AM   #14
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Don't forget to purge water out of the black tank flush line, if you have one!
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:16 PM   #15
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Winterizing from Northern Michigan

My Windsport 34F appears to have 2 low drain points. 2 valves near the dump pipe and another 2 behind the sink in the ďkitchenĒ area. Open the service door under the sink and there are 2 plunger type (pull up/push down) valves with rings to assist in the water lines. The water tank and pump are under the bed, the pump is towards the back wall. You unscrew 4 screws on the piece where the storage lid hinge is attached, then flip it over for access to the pump and drain valve (I couldnít find it and 2 service techs search also, gave up and sent for the schematics for Thor). I attached the connection for the suction hose between the water tank and pump. Remove the cap, attach the plastic tubing, turn off the valve at the tank and drain, insert the tubing in a jug of anti-freeze and turn on the pump. The wife goes around to all our faucets and runs them till there is good pink. Make sure you ďpinkĒ the toilet if you store in an area the freezes. A freeze cracked the valve, though I had (I thought) did a good job of blowing it out. My hot water tank hides behind the drawer in a storage closet (found how to extend the drawer on the internet, finally). Donít forget to close it off. I also use 2 gallons of anti-freeze in each holding tank to help keep things ďfluidĒ.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:23 AM   #16
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Winterize Palazzo 33.2

This is our first year, we purchase late in the year so we are getting all the bugs out and checking the unit out using home base camp for trial until that first trip. I read a lot of review and opinions on winterizing. I picked up a little device from Lowes the other day it is a hose male adapter with a tire pressure valve molded to it so, I plan to remove drain gray black tank fresh water tank and flush with air, we have a tankless HW so I was told by Girard to run the pink stuff through the heater.... so I will install the Anti Freeze as well after I blow the lines out. I too read the Anti Freeze is good for the faucet seals. The Cost of repair to the plumbing is not worth trying to save time or money on maintenance.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:12 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Frank Boblits View Post
This is our first year, we purchase late in the year so we are getting all the bugs out and checking the unit out using home base camp for trial until that first trip. I read a lot of review and opinions on winterizing. I picked up a little device from Lowes the other day it is a hose male adapter with a tire pressure valve molded to it so, I plan to remove drain gray black tank fresh water tank and flush with air, we have a tankless HW so I was told by Girard to run the pink stuff through the heater.... so I will install the Anti Freeze as well after I blow the lines out. I too read the Anti Freeze is good for the faucet seals. The Cost of repair to the plumbing is not worth trying to save time or money on maintenance.

Good deal, Yep I like the idea of the pink stuff helping the seals.

Plus unless you have a real good air compressor filter you could introduce oil and rust (and moisture) into your water system.

I will stick with the pink stuff.
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:26 AM   #18
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Iíve used air for many years and have had no problems. The exception to using air is the water pump, no good way to get the water out.

Open all your faucets then open all low point drains until everything is empty then close everything. The water pump is under the rear seat of the dinette, the is a capped stub to use for pulling in antifreeze. I hook up the antifreeze, open the bathroom cold water faucet (itís the closest to the pump) then run the pump until I get pink from the faucet. There are valves at the pump to switch from the water tank to the stub.

I use air to blow out water from everything else, set compressor to 55-60 psi. Donít forget the outside kitchen and shower. When Iím finished with the air I put antifreeze in all the traps, again, donít forget the outside kitchen. Donít forget to run the pump for the outside kitchen sink drain.

I can usually get everything done in about 20-30 min.
Where did you get your fitting and hose to use the stub on the water pump for antifreeze?
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:39 AM   #19
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Where did you get your fitting and hose to use the stub on the water pump for antifreeze?
Well you can get one from Amazon, of course LOL.

Our you can get a Blow out hose from Campingworld.
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Old 10-31-2018, 12:38 PM   #20
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Winterization

A bicycle pump is all I have ever used and it does the job to clear the lines of water and I put enough anti freeze in the fresh water tank (after draining) to prime the pump and pump the antifreeze through all of the lines( hot and cold).
I leave the antifreeze in the fresh water tank until spring and then dump and then fill and dump a few times with fresh water and run all the taps and toilet to get rid of the pink. This procedure has worked for me for 10 years and it was recommended to me by an RV tech. I carry the bicycle pump with me all the time and can even pump up a tire in a pinch. Have run into drastic changes of temps and can do the whole job in 45 minutes or less
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