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Old 09-28-2019, 01:28 PM   #1
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Brand: Still Looking
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The Tri-Mark Jinx...

... Has just struck in the Denman Driveway.
Getting in and out of the RV isn't a problem (It's a "C"); so I can bring to bear any tool that'll fit through the front doors.
Here's my question:
I've got a picture of the inside of the door attached. I assume that I have to remove all of the screws, and get the plate loose.
Once I'm in there: what next?
If I remove the offending pieces: can I re-assemble what's left of the door, and drive it until some new parts arrive?

(Okay: TWO questions...)

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Old 09-28-2019, 01:40 PM   #2
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Bob

Have you tried looking at You Tube? I have been looking at replacing my door lock and installing a key less electronic lock. There are some good videos out there.

Good luck
Paul
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:45 PM   #3
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Thanks!
I figured that I'd first check with the experts in here...
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:46 PM   #4
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Well that's a different lock model than the one that has plagued the Thor users, doesn't mean it doesn't have the same issue, but I wouldn't kump to conclusions.

Isn't your coach still under warranty?

To answer your questions:

On your lock it looks like you have three screws to remove the inside cover plate. Once that is removed you should be able to see and finagle the door latch that is broken to get the door open and remove the rest of the lock from the outside.

Then, if you can remove the broken latch you should be able to reassemble the lock assembly and just use the deadbolt to hold the door closed.


Rots of Ruck!
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:48 PM   #5
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Thanks! I knew that you guys wouldn't let down an "S.O.B., in the S.O.B."!
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:52 PM   #6
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Bob, I agree with _
The USER Formally Known As TFryman.

I have that same type of lock on my Axis. I always thought the square model was the one everybody had trouble with and not that rectangular one as you pictured? Maybe it's just a fluke one time jam once you open it lube it up very well. Good luck.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:55 PM   #7
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Yikes, not Bob! Yes, the screws come off but also the red cap. Take a photo of insides still attached (the outer door flap handle part) if anything is obviously broken to share. The dead bolt (dinky, pot metal, POS) is on the top right and slides into the door frame. I think your's is (same as mine, Vegas/Axis) Model # 030-0900.

Mine's not failed...yet, but I did just have it open to examine and lube. If the dead bolt is snapped, I would start by removing the spring (needle nose pliers??) and try to work the pieces out.Part of the casting at the door edge is a guide way and may have to be drilled or ground to get to the part that's stuck in the door frame. I'm thinking it's better to destroy the housing THAN prying the door frame open.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:58 PM   #8
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Uh oh,I don't think that's a tri mark,I believe it's a Dexter or Lippert and that's what Thor uses instead of tri mark. This is the first I've heard of these failing. But I have had 2 storage compartment door latches fail,couldn't open compartment almost as fun as entry door.
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:03 PM   #9
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The keys do have "Tri-Mark" ; stamped on them
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnach View Post
Yikes, not Bob! Yes, the screws come off but also the red cap. Take a photo of insides still attached (the outer door flap handle part) if anything is obviously broken to share. The dead bolt (dinky, pot metal, POS) is on the top right and slides into the door frame. I think your's is (same as mine, Vegas/Axis) Model # 030-0900.

Mine's not failed...yet, but I did just have it open to examine and lube. If the dead bolt is snapped, I would start by removing the spring (needle nose pliers??) and try to work the pieces out.Part of the casting at the door edge is a guide way and may have to be drilled or ground to get to the part that's stuck in the door frame. I'm thinking it's better to destroy the housing THAN prying the door frame open.

Thanks for a VERY thorough explanation!
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:24 PM   #11
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My door would occasionally make a terrible chirping noise while under way, maybe from road conditions or wind or crickets, but could last for hours. A friend had told me he added teflon washer to an earlier moho so I opened mine to examine the guts. Shaking the inner assembly, I easily/heard saw the upper dead blot knob has a sloppy fit and could use a teflon washer just behind the knob. Not having a washer on hand but thinking teflon is teflon I grabbed the teflon pipe thread tape and tightly wrapped it around the stem filling the gap behind the knob, maybe 10 wraps. I also put some silicone grease into the deadbolt "track" or guide way and reassembled.
I think I fixed it. The 3 hour drive back home was MUCH quieter.
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Bilsteins and Sumos front and rear...HUGE! FatMat and Hoodliner...HUGE!
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:34 PM   #12
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Oh yeah Bob...file a complaint with the NHTSA: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/ . Trimark has had to recall door locks from Winnebagos but not globally and obviously, they should. Attach your photos to the complaint.
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I'm wearing trifocals now but my hindsight is 20/20.
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Bilsteins and Sumos front and rear...HUGE! FatMat and Hoodliner...HUGE!
Hellwig sway bars F&R, 235/85 Hankook ATM, alignment...HUGE!!!
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:33 PM   #13
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I had my first problem today with my TriMark door latch on my Thor ACE 30.1. This is not the same as yours but maybe what I discovered might help you.
Three screws on inside plate and two red plastic knobs pryed straight up and inside plate easily comes off. First thing I see laying on the bottom of the opening was a piece of hard white plastic about 1"x 3/4"x .040" with 3 other small pieces. Searched well but could not quite ID where these little broken pieces had come from. This plastic was probably acting as a buffer for when the outside handle snapped Back hard. Being smacked a hundred times probably broke it to pieces and the large piece got wedged in and acted like a lock and prevented us from moving the inside handle. This might be where people are breaking the pot metal handle ?
My unit came easily off the door without any parts of springs falling out.
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:35 PM   #14
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My parts are on the way: free of charge!
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Old 10-03-2019, 07:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
My parts are on the way: free of charge!
From who - TriMark or Tiffin ? At least the price is right.

Let's see plenty of pictures as you fix it. Video even better as long as you bleep out the parts.
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Old 10-03-2019, 07:04 PM   #16
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Tiffin...
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:52 AM   #17
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Sorry that I didn't get back here quicker with an update...
(It took the reminder of Mr. Sunshine's lock failure, to jog my memory! )
Anyway: my parts got here, and things are back to "norbal"....
The toughest part of the job was finding the right tools to take the latch apart...
It wasn't as easy as I had hoped it would be; but it was a manageable task...
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Old 10-10-2019, 01:11 AM   #18
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Bob, seems like you forgot to wash the Thor residue off...I have begun looking at Tiffin MHs, hope the big ones have better door latches.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:22 AM   #19
I Think We're Lost!
 
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They use Tri-Mark.
But they warranty things better!
Happy shopping!
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:52 PM   #20
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Red face Trimark

I have had a terrible squeak from the latch from when it was delivered in 2017. I took it apart, lubed with graphite and put it back because I found nothing wrong with it. Squeaked less but still the wife could NOT stand it. I ended up after everything else I tried torquing the screws down really tight. No Squeak! After a while (a few trips on crappy roads)it came back. Re-torque and lock-tite has fixed it now hopefully for good.
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