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Old 10-23-2017, 10:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by PNTR10 View Post
Just picked up my 29M from warranty repair and had it winterized while I was there. Took the tech around 15 minutes. I asked him why they don't use compressed air? He told me Thor will nullify the warrenty because they feel it is not sufficient. The techs were winterizing all the units on the lot and did not use compressed air on any.
Sorry, but that is absolutely BS!!! Many, many dealers in northern climates use compressed air to winterize units on their lots, itís a lot cheaper for them! Only problem with compressed air is making sure you donít have the pressure turned up and rupture a line.
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:17 PM   #22
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Please don't shoot the messenger. I'm just passing on what I was told. I was also told not to leave the rv plugged in and in the use position during the winter because I will overcharge the batteries. He suggested I buy a battery tender. Opinion?
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Old 10-24-2017, 12:29 AM   #23
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Please don't shoot the messenger. I'm just passing on what I was told. I was also told not to leave the rv plugged in and in the use position during the winter because I will overcharge the batteries. He suggested I buy a battery tender. Opinion?
A properly functioning converter will not over charge the batteries... Having lived in our rig for 3-5 months straight multiple times - it was certainly left in USE and plugged in for long stretches... Many live in them fulltime plugged in... and others leave them plugged in at home.

I don't have a 'parasitic draw' issue on mine - I can go well over a month without charging - so I haven't been leaving mine plugged in.. (Its also out of its normal parking spot while we are still cleaning up from Irma - and some very wet weather... didn't affect the parking spot directly - but access to it is a little 'softer' than normal.).

Some checking of voltages while on the converter may be helpful - insure it is dropping to a float/maintain charge level...

Nothing wrong with a battery tender either... I used them on the 'car left behind' when we took our winter long trips south before moving here.
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:42 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by PNTR10 View Post
Just picked up my 29M from warranty repair and had it winterized while I was there. Took the tech around 15 minutes. I asked him why they don't use compressed air? He told me Thor will nullify the warrenty because they feel it is not sufficient. The techs were winterizing all the units on the lot and did not use compressed air on any.
Not sure that tech knows what he's talking about, since Thor recommends it as the preferred method in their winterizing video.

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Old 11-02-2017, 03:56 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Peterrrr View Post
Here is the procedure I used once on my previous Motorhome. Since then I have found it far easier to take the unit South during the winter, it does the same job, but at a higher cost. The text originally was posted on a forum by another user who was given it by a shop foreman. If was for a unit that had a water control center. If you don't have the options mentioned then just bypass that step.

1) Drain you water heater by removing the plastic plug at the bottom (open outside access door to locate)

2) Locate your outside storage bay that has the city water connection, water filter, water drains . should be on the driver side middle of the coach

3) Locate the 2 knobs that say low point drains and turn them – this should start draining water out of your water lines – leave them open till spring. Also locate the valve that says Water Heater bypass and turn it to the Bypass position.

4) Locate the fresh water drain valve - open it and let the water drain- may take up to an hour- leave this open until spring also.

5) Take off the fresh water filter canister and remove the cartridge – reinstall the canister empty-

6) Locate the city water connection port and hook up a short piece of hose – 3 feet should do – you can cut down a garden hose if you don’t have one available.

7) Locate the small black valve on the white panel and turn it to the winterize/sanitize setting

8) Insert the garden hose into a gallon of antifreeze

9) Turn on the water pump this should start to siphon antifreeze from the gallon into your water lines

10) Go inside the coach and open each faucet individually – do the cold side first then the hot – you should see pink antifreeze come out into the sink- when you see antifreeze flowing from the faucet turn it off and repeat for all of the other faucets including shower, bathroom, outside shower, toilet.

11) If you have a washer /dryer installed turn it to the wash cycle mode you should hear antifreeze start to pump into the unit- open the small tray at the top and check to see if there is pink in it.

12) Repeat the same process for an icemaker if it is equipped on your refrigerator.
* You have to dump the gray and black tanks before you start.
* Duct tape the plastic plug from the heater to the backside of the heater door so you can find it in the spring.
* The cold and hot low point drains: After all the water has drained out, close the drains or you'll be draining your pink juice out as you try to put it in.
* Last step: Remove the water filter canister which is now full of pink juice. Pour a cup of it in the kitchen sink to fill the P-trap. Repeat for the bathroom sink, shower drain, and toilet. Add more pink juice to the process as needed. Put filter canister back where you got it, probably now empty.

Pink juice in the toilet to keep the seal wet all winter:
Will the water pump "pull" antifreeze through the city water connection if you don't have the winterize valve in step 7)? I would think that the pump would only pull water out of the fresh water storage tank.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:36 AM   #26
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The last reply not even close to 29m winterizimg.
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:49 AM   #27
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subscribed for later reference.

I know there are differing opinions and options but I really appreciate the friendly debate as it gives me the insight to do this.

I've made it through blowing air through all lines but the plug at the water pump is smaller than the male end of my water hose. Will get adapter tomorrow and pump a little of the pink juice through.

Thanks to all
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:23 AM   #28
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Winterizing Hurricane 29M wtih antifreeze steps

Here's the checklist I came up with for my 2018 Hurricane 29M. Bear in mind this is my first winterization. It sounds like a lot of work but wasn't really not that bad. Other than waiting for things to drain, maybe 20 minutes. Any feedback from others would certainly be welcomed. Especially on the order which I used to try to maximize the gravity draining aspect. Note that some leave the water heater plug out until de-winterization. My objective was to return things to "normal" so that I don't forget anything if I decided to suddenly de-winterize and get the heck out of Dodge.

1) Level RV 2) Turn off water heater & let cool 3) Empty black and gray tanks 4) Remove plug from water pump inlet 5) Drain fresh water tank 6) Open city water connection 7) Open faucets to allow water to drain Outdoor kitchen sink Outside shower Inside shower Bathroom sink Kitchen sink 8) Open low point drains 9) Actuate toilet to let water drain 10) Remove water heater drain plug (15/16ths) 11) Actuate water heater bypass valves 12) Reinstall water heater drain plug 13) close faucets 14) close low point drains 15) Close fresh water tank drain valve 16) Close city water connection 17) Close fresh water tank valve near pump 18) Attach antifreeze siphon hose to pump 19) Put end of hose in antifreeze bottle 20) Turn on pump 21) Open faucets until antifreeze appears Outdoor kitchen sink Outside shower Inside shower Bathroom sink Kitchen sink Toilet 22) Pump antifreeze out of outdoor sink 23) Let some antifreez flow out low point drains 24) Remove antifreeze hose 25) Reinstall water pump inlet plug 26) Open fresh water tank valve near pump 27) After flushing lines per dewinterizing procs reverse water heater bypass valves and fill water heater.

Would love to hear comments and suggestions.
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:49 AM   #29
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Donít forget to fill drain traps with pink stuff. I donít see any value in step 27. Just leave it empty.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:37 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by OKDogMan View Post
...
Would love to hear comments and suggestions.
Think you have it covered... But could safely simplify - eliminating a few steps.
I've never opened the low point drains - or did anything to drain beyond water heater and fresh water tank.
Hook up the 'pink stuff' and open each faucet until pink is seen (including outside and toilet). Should take about 1 gallon. I then repeat with second gallon - which makes sure it got to everything, and covers the drain traps.
Kept things just fine in Michigan winter's.

I've never worried about leveling either - between not using the low points, and then driving to storage with fresh water tank valve open, it naturally drained.

The extra steps certainly won't hurt anything.

Should be a 10-15 min job until you get to rigs with ice makers and/or washers...
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by philvickie View Post
You do not have to remove water heater plug. There is a drain line for it.
The hot water heater bypass is three valves you have to change. They are under the kitchen sink.
Step 5 is not necessary
Step 7: No such valve on 29m
You never want the anti freeze in fresh water tank.
I never trust using air.
So under rear most dinette seat, close the valve from the fresh water tank. Connect short length of hose to pump with other end inserted in anti freeze. Turn on pump. Open each facet until water turns pink. Do not forget outside shower and kitchen.
Phil...during winterization, what is the configuration of the 3 water heater bypass values that are under the sink?

I'm thinking they didn't bypass mine when it was winterized....thx
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:30 PM   #32
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I wondered why a Thread about Winterizing a rig would show up at the end of February...

Now that I see it started last September:

My Theory: Find a ton of stuff that the Dealer needs to fix, and leave it with them for the Winter...
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Old 02-26-2018, 07:01 PM   #33
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Phil...during winterization, what is the configuration of the 3 water heater bypass values that are under the sink?

I'm thinking they didn't bypass mine when it was winterized....thx
You have 3 quarter turn valves to bypass (or not) the water heater... The handles are either parallel to the line (open) or perpendicular/crossing the line (closed)

Winter mode - the blue line entering the water heater and red line leaving the water heater should be CLOSED - the valve joining the blue and red lines outside the water heater should be OPEN.

Normal mode - the blue line entering the water heater and red line leaving the water heater should be OPEN - the valve joining the blue and red lines outside the water heater should be CLOSED.

So in winter, water doesn't enter/leave the water heater - it follows the 'bypass line' that joins the blue to red...
In normal use, the water flows thru the water heater - and not thru the bypass line.

The use of the bypass greatly reduces the amount of antifreeze used in the system (the heater itself is typically 6 gallons...) - and amount of water needed to flush lines in spring - if winterizing with that method...

(Also makes it simpler to blow out lines with air - though after all is empty, the valves could be returned to normal immediately as there is no flushing required...)
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Old 02-26-2018, 07:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by gmc View Post
You have 3 quarter turn valves to bypass (or not) the water heater... The handles are either parallel to the line (open) or perpendicular/crossing the line (closed)

Winter mode - the blue line entering the water heater and red line leaving the water heater should be CLOSED - the valve joining the blue and red lines outside the water heater should be OPEN.

Normal mode - the blue line entering the water heater and red line leaving the water heater should be OPEN - the valve joining the blue and red lines outside the water heater should be CLOSED.

So in winter, water doesn't enter/leave the water heater - it follows the 'bypass line' that joins the blue to red...
In normal use, the water flows thru the water heater - and not thru the bypass line.

The use of the bypass greatly reduces the amount of antifreeze used in the system (the heater itself is typically 6 gallons...) - and amount of water needed to flush lines in spring - if winterizing with that method...

(Also makes it simpler to blow out lines with air - though after all is empty, the valves could be returned to normal immediately as there is no flushing required...)
Exactly the info I needed...thanks!!!
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