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Old 09-18-2017, 05:38 PM   #1
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Question Winterizing the Thor Hurricane 29M ???

How do you winterize the Thor Hurricane 29M ?
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:53 AM   #2
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Drain everything. By pass the hot water heater. Reconfigure water pump (under rear most dinette cushion) to draw from RV anti freeze gallon jug. Run all facets including outside shower, outside kitchen and all inside facets. Should only take about two gallons.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:45 AM   #3
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Here is the procedure I used once on my previous Motorhome. Since then I have found it far easier to take the unit South during the winter, it does the same job, but at a higher cost. The text originally was posted on a forum by another user who was given it by a shop foreman. If was for a unit that had a water control center. If you don't have the options mentioned then just bypass that step.

1) Drain you water heater by removing the plastic plug at the bottom (open outside access door to locate)

2) Locate your outside storage bay that has the city water connection, water filter, water drains . should be on the driver side middle of the coach

3) Locate the 2 knobs that say low point drains and turn them – this should start draining water out of your water lines – leave them open till spring. Also locate the valve that says Water Heater bypass and turn it to the Bypass position.

4) Locate the fresh water drain valve - open it and let the water drain- may take up to an hour- leave this open until spring also.

5) Take off the fresh water filter canister and remove the cartridge – reinstall the canister empty-

6) Locate the city water connection port and hook up a short piece of hose – 3 feet should do – you can cut down a garden hose if you don’t have one available.

7) Locate the small black valve on the white panel and turn it to the winterize/sanitize setting

8) Insert the garden hose into a gallon of antifreeze

9) Turn on the water pump this should start to siphon antifreeze from the gallon into your water lines

10) Go inside the coach and open each faucet individually – do the cold side first then the hot – you should see pink antifreeze come out into the sink- when you see antifreeze flowing from the faucet turn it off and repeat for all of the other faucets including shower, bathroom, outside shower, toilet.

11) If you have a washer /dryer installed turn it to the wash cycle mode you should hear antifreeze start to pump into the unit- open the small tray at the top and check to see if there is pink in it.

12) Repeat the same process for an icemaker if it is equipped on your refrigerator.
* You have to dump the gray and black tanks before you start.
* Duct tape the plastic plug from the heater to the backside of the heater door so you can find it in the spring.
* The cold and hot low point drains: After all the water has drained out, close the drains or you'll be draining your pink juice out as you try to put it in.
* Last step: Remove the water filter canister which is now full of pink juice. Pour a cup of it in the kitchen sink to fill the P-trap. Repeat for the bathroom sink, shower drain, and toilet. Add more pink juice to the process as needed. Put filter canister back where you got it, probably now empty.

Pink juice in the toilet to keep the seal wet all winter:
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Old 09-22-2017, 02:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Peterrrr View Post
Here is the procedure I used once on my previous Motorhome. Since then I have found it far easier to take the unit South during the winter, it does the same job, but at a higher cost. The text originally was posted on a forum by another user who was given it by a shop foreman. If was for a unit that had a water control center. If you don't have the options mentioned then just bypass that step.

1) Drain you water heater by removing the plastic plug at the bottom (open outside access door to locate)

2) Locate your outside storage bay that has the city water connection, water filter, water drains . should be on the driver side middle of the coach

3) Locate the 2 knobs that say low point drains and turn them – this should start draining water out of your water lines – leave them open till spring. Also locate the valve that says Water Heater bypass and turn it to the Bypass position.

4) Locate the fresh water drain valve - open it and let the water drain- may take up to an hour- leave this open until spring also.

5) Take off the fresh water filter canister and remove the cartridge – reinstall the canister empty-

6) Locate the city water connection port and hook up a short piece of hose – 3 feet should do – you can cut down a garden hose if you don’t have one available.

7) Locate the small black valve on the white panel and turn it to the winterize/sanitize setting

8) Insert the garden hose into a gallon of antifreeze

9) Turn on the water pump this should start to siphon antifreeze from the gallon into your water lines

10) Go inside the coach and open each faucet individually – do the cold side first then the hot – you should see pink antifreeze come out into the sink- when you see antifreeze flowing from the faucet turn it off and repeat for all of the other faucets including shower, bathroom, outside shower, toilet.

11) If you have a washer /dryer installed turn it to the wash cycle mode you should hear antifreeze start to pump into the unit- open the small tray at the top and check to see if there is pink in it.

12) Repeat the same process for an icemaker if it is equipped on your refrigerator.
* You have to dump the gray and black tanks before you start.
* Duct tape the plastic plug from the heater to the backside of the heater door so you can find it in the spring.
* The cold and hot low point drains: After all the water has drained out, close the drains or you'll be draining your pink juice out as you try to put it in.
* Last step: Remove the water filter canister which is now full of pink juice. Pour a cup of it in the kitchen sink to fill the P-trap. Repeat for the bathroom sink, shower drain, and toilet. Add more pink juice to the process as needed. Put filter canister back where you got it, probably now empty.

Pink juice in the toilet to keep the seal wet all winter:


This is not correct for a 29 m.
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Old 09-22-2017, 03:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by philvickie View Post
This is not correct for a 29 m.
Care to share what isn't correct for the 29M?

They did note: "It was for a unit that had a water control center. If you don't have the options mentioned then just bypass that step."
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Old 09-22-2017, 04:48 PM   #6
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With water pump off drain all water at low point drains first. I then attach an air quick disconnect adapter to the water inlet, set air compressor to 50-55 psi, then blow out the water lines one at a time till they are clear. Don't forget outside shower and kitchen. Then pour about one cup of pink stuff in each drain. Use antifreeze inlet on water pump and draw enough to fill the pump. I can do everything with less than one gallon of antifreeze and in about 15 minutes. Make sure fresh water tank and heater are drained.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:24 PM   #7
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You do not have to remove water heater plug. There is a drain line for it.
The hot water heater bypass is three valves you have to change. They are under the kitchen sink.
Step 5 is not necessary
Step 7: No such valve on 29m
You never want the anti freeze in fresh water tank.
I never trust using air.
So under rear most dinette seat, close the valve from the fresh water tank. Connect short length of hose to pump with other end inserted in anti freeze. Turn on pump. Open each facet until water turns pink. Do not forget outside shower and kitchen.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:45 PM   #8
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I've been using air to clear the lines for over 30 years, never had anything freeze. I don't like pink stuff in my water lines other than to do the water pump.
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:05 PM   #9
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I did an experiment one time on previous Class A that I had. Blew out all the lines then ran anti-freeze through the lines. LOTS of clear water came out before pink stuff. Tells me I would have had a frozen/broken line in the Spring. Probably depends on the unit and model as to whether or not blowing out only will work.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:07 PM   #10
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Will using compressed air to clear the water lines leave a little, absolutely yes! There will not be enough in the lines to cause damage if it freezes. For freezing to cause damage the water has to be confined in such a way that it has nowhere to go when it expands. A line that has been blown out with air has plenty of dead space to expand and what little water that is left will not cause any damage.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:14 PM   #11
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Why take the chance when all you need is 2 gallons of the pink stuff and about 15 minutes total to complete and reconfigure your watering system. Not worth it to me. Just my paranoia sticking out!
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:23 PM   #12
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Will using compressed air to clear the water lines leave a little, absolutely yes! There will not be enough in the lines to cause damage if it freezes. For freezing to cause damage the water has to be confined in such a way that it has nowhere to go when it expands. A line that has been blown out with air has plenty of dead space to expand and what little water that is left will not cause any damage.
I used air once and it worked fine but I was really nervous all winter so I never did it that way again. Whether I use antifreeze or air I always open all faucets just for good measure.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:14 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by philvickie View Post
Drain everything. By pass the hot water heater. Reconfigure water pump (under rear most dinette cushion) to draw from RV anti freeze gallon jug. Run all facets including outside shower, outside kitchen and all inside facets. Should only take about two gallons.
When you say reconfigure what do you mean? I have an adapter for a hose to put in the anti-freeze bottle on the water pump line but it is smaller than a garden hose knob.
You would think it would be the same size.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:24 PM   #14
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Will using compressed air to clear the water lines leave a little, absolutely yes! There will not be enough in the lines to cause damage if it freezes. For freezing to cause damage the water has to be confined in such a way that it has nowhere to go when it expands. A line that has been blown out with air has plenty of dead space to expand and what little water that is left will not cause any damage.
After blowing the lines, I let things sit for 5-10 minutes and blow them again. I usually get one last slug from some of the lines. You can't count on the lines not having a small pocket or two in the longer runs that run across the floor. The second blow out will make sure there isn't enough water left in the lines to matter. Even if you have a small pocket with water in it, its not going to rupture the line when it freezes as long as the line is otherwise empty.
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Old 10-22-2017, 10:07 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by philvickie View Post
You do not have to remove water heater plug. There is a drain line for it.
The hot water heater bypass is three valves you have to change. They are under the kitchen sink.
Step 5 is not necessary
Step 7: No such valve on 29m
You never want the anti freeze in fresh water tank.
I never trust using air.
So under rear most dinette seat, close the valve from the fresh water tank. Connect short length of hose to pump with other end inserted in anti freeze. Turn on pump. Open each facet until water turns pink. Do not forget outside shower and kitchen.
where is the drain line for the hot water heater tank, if you don't have to remove the plug?
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Old 10-22-2017, 10:57 PM   #16
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It is in one of the bays on the drivers side; probably the one under the hot water heater. Same types of valve as used to drain the water tank. I have mine in storage so can't be more specific. If you can't find it, by all means remove the plug from the hot water heater.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:18 AM   #17
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Just picked up my 29M from warranty repair and had it winterized while I was there. Took the tech around 15 minutes. I asked him why they don't use compressed air? He told me Thor will nullify the warrenty because they feel it is not sufficient. The techs were winterizing all the units on the lot and did not use compressed air on any.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:40 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by philvickie View Post
Why take the chance when all you need is 2 gallons of the pink stuff and about 15 minutes total to complete and reconfigure your watering system. Not worth it to me. Just my paranoia sticking out!
If I felt like I was taking a chance I wouldn’t use air. Like I said, I don’t like the pink stuff sitting in my water lines. Granted using the pump is easy, just prefer not to.
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by PNTR10 View Post
Just picked up my 29M from warranty repair and had it winterized while I was there. Took the tech around 15 minutes. I asked him why they don't use compressed air? He told me Thor will nullify the warrenty because they feel it is not sufficient. The techs were winterizing all the units on the lot and did not use compressed air on any.
That doesn't make any sense to me, especially when my Thor owners manual outlines both methods for winterization. Since I do have a compressor I'm firmly in that camp.
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:52 AM   #20
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where is the drain line for the hot water heater tank, if you don't have to remove the plug?
Drivers side bay, there will be one for hot and one for cold. Put the kitchen faucet in the middle position so both hot and cold are open then open the low point drains, do this before you bypass the water heater.
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