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Old 11-19-2016, 05:28 PM   #61
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An Oilless compressor is a GREAT idea - however I think it is overkill.

I use a normal compressor and have never had a problem!
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:41 PM   #62
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The reason I mentioned oilless is compressors with oil blow a small amount thru the hose and in to the water lines which causes contamination. Some individuals are very sensitive to the oil contamination and can become very ill, using an oilless compressor eliminates this risk. I will admit to having used an oil bath compressor in the past but don't now after reading about the risks.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:06 PM   #63
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Traveler -- there is an air adapter that you screw on where you connect the shore water for blowing air through the system. Don't forget to also do the outside shower. Air will flow through the lines every time you open a faucet. Be sure to do all of them -- hot & cold. And when doing the hot water lines be sure you have the drain plug in the hot water heater.
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Old 09-04-2017, 03:27 PM   #64
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Hoser123- I live in New Jersey, just outside Philadelphia. Can I wait until November to winterize my coach. I just got my Thor 37RB and want to use it for awhile. 1st time RVer.
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Old 09-04-2017, 07:44 PM   #65
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You can safely wait until the day before a frost/freeze warning... Beyond that it's your risk...

Each coach model is different as to where water lines run... If they are in heated area... If you are running the heat... (A separate space heater may not heat a 'wet bay' that the coach furnace would.)

If you use the air method of winterizing, simple and cheap to do multiple times in a season... Takes me no more than 15 min to do and only about 1/2 gal antifreeze.
Drain hot water heater, valves to bypass, hook up air (50 psi max) to city inlet, open all faucets hot and cold one at a time until only air comes out - don't forget toilet, outside shower)... Pour some antifreeze down drains...done..

Use RV anytime... Just repeat when done.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:03 AM   #66
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Where are the bypass valves and what do they look like? Thanks

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Old 09-05-2017, 12:50 PM   #67
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Where are the bypass valves and what do they look like? Thanks

jb
You'll find the bypass valves on the inside of the water heater. In ours they are chrome handled valves--can't miss them (scan through the thread here--I'm sure there are pictures. Edit: Yup Post #17).
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:19 PM   #68
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We've got a tankless water heater, probably no bypass valves, right?
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:22 PM   #69
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We've got a tankless water heater, probably no bypass valves, right?
LOL! Yup likely no valves.
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:25 PM   #70
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Hoser123
Thanks,
That's great. Does anyone know where the water heater bypass valves are in a 2018 Thor 37RB?
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:05 AM   #71
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Fresh Water Tank Drain

Great posts and extremely helpful for us newbies. Anyone have an idea why my fresh tank won't drain? I've opened the valve on the right that goes through the floor, closed the one on the left that goes to the pump, opened the fresh intake cap on the outside of the coach... not a drip.

Opened a couple of faucets... nothing.

Had to open the valve to the pump and turn it on, emptying out the low level drain valve.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:11 PM   #72
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I would check to see if the valve is clogged by removing it if possible. If no water at that point, the output of the tank is probably clogged which could be cleared by forcing compressed air toward the tank. Don’t know if you can force any air thru the tube from underneath the coach unless you could put an extension on a compressor hose.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:04 PM   #73
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Thank you Larry. That seems like a logical place to start.
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Old 03-06-2018, 02:01 PM   #74
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Great information. I plan on using mine during the winter. Living in SoCal it freezes, but not the entire winter. I'm guessing I can just keep RV plugged in with heater set at about 40°? Are there other steps I need to take? TIA
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Old 03-06-2018, 02:50 PM   #75
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Great information. I plan on using mine during the winter. Living in SoCal it freezes, but not the entire winter. I'm guessing I can just keep RV plugged in with heater set at about 40°? Are there other steps I need to take? TIA
The heater will take care of the inside (and the fresh water system)--you'll want to keep an eye on your propane level (or use a small electric heater).

If you have tank heaters, leave them on as well.

Given that we're into March I'd bet you probably don't have to worry about freezing much until next fall/winter.
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Old 03-06-2018, 05:59 PM   #76
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Specific for the 25.2 water system winterizing

25.2 Vegas specific Winterization ... thanks to author of the 24.1...I just changed a bit for 25.2

Unfortunately, it is that time of year again (second time this year for me). Time to get the unit ready for more winter.

This is specific to the Axis/Vegas 25.2 and will probably not exactly apply to the other Axis/Vegas/other RVs as far as where the valves are located, but the procedures are the same.

To start out with you'll want to flip the pressure relief valve behind the water heater access panel to relieve pressure off your water system and then remove the water heater's drain plug (a plastic plug near the bottom left of the unit). Its a 1 1/16th socket (easiest to get to with a short extension).Just remove the plug and leave it out until spring--or just replace it very loosely to keep any critters out).

Next you'll want to lift the jacknife sofa and prop it open to get to the water tank, antifreeze siphon tube, water heater bypass valves, etc from there.

After that I open the drain valve for the water tank on the left bottom of the tank (closest to you) and close the feed valve on the Left bottom of the tank (Farthest from you(so the water pump doesn't draw water from the tank)). You can tell the feed valve because its hooked to the pipe going to the water pump, and the drain valve because it is the one with the right-angle fitting that goes through the floor.

Now the fun part is to find three valves on the left at the water heater tank. They are pretty difficult to see. The easiest way to find them is first by feel and then visually. You will find the two lines that go to and from the water heater, the valves should be open (in line with the flow). Close them to winterize. The third line is the bypass line and the valve should be closed. Open it to bypass the water heater to winterize. Now the lines to/from the water heater are closed and the bypass line is open.

The first time you winterize you’ll need to install a winterization kit to the pump. After you install it, you can leave it in place…. Here is one https://www.midlandhardware.com/8747...BoCjj0QAvD_BwE
There are others.

Place the clear tube into a gal antifreeze bottle and open the valve.

Now turn the pump on with the kitchen faucet open slightly (using kitchen because you can see the antifreeze tubing from the pump switch). The idea here is to have a faucet open so the pump can suck up the antifreeze--try it with all the faucets closed you won't get very far LOL.


Once you see the clear line filled and hear the pump slow down because it has some antifreeze in it close the faucet. Now you're ready...
Go around the coach opening up one side (cold) and then the other (hot) until you see pink stuff coming out. Make sure you do every faucet including the outside shower, the shower head, and the toilet. It should be really pink coming out:

You'll probably empty the first gallon during this process. When you hear the pump running with no antifreeze coming out just turn off the pump, replace the bottle with a full one, and repeat the priming like you did with the first bottle.
When all the sinks are done I also go and briefly open up both low point drains (located in the floor behind the drawer under the fridge… the drawer slide has a tab to hold up/down to allow the drawer to open bend the normal limit so you can reach in there) so you can get antifreeze going through them.

When I'm all done I pour any remaining antifreeze into each sink, the shower, and the toilet to make sure that there is antifreeze in the traps and the waste tanks (even though there probably is from the winterizing process but, in this case, more is better). In addition this allows me to use up all the antifreeze and recycle the bottles (no real reason to have a 1/2 full bottle of RV antifreeze sitting around).

It usually only takes about 1.5 gallons of pink stuff to winterize an Axis/Vegas--I get extra just in case.
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:47 AM   #77
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I have a Vegas 25.2 with a tankless water heater so I don't have to worry about that. I put 30 psi air into the fresh water inlet and open all faucets, one at a time until only air comes out. I then dump the tanks and put 1/2 gallon of the pink stuff in each tank and a bit in each trap. Drive around the block to slosh it around to make sure the dump valves don't freeze. That's all i do, never had a problem.
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Old 03-07-2018, 02:46 AM   #78
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Great information. I plan on using mine during the winter. Living in SoCal it freezes, but not the entire winter. I'm guessing I can just keep RV plugged in with heater set at about 40°? Are there other steps I need to take? TIA
The thermostats usually don't go below 65 so I would think of something else, like an electric heater. A short stint of freezing, unless you are a mountain resident where it can be longer than that, usually won't be a problem because the coach retains a bit of heat when the sun heats it up.
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Old 03-07-2018, 04:13 AM   #79
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The thermostats usually don't go below 65 so I would think of something else, like an electric heater. A short stint of freezing, unless you are a mountain resident where it can be longer than that, usually won't be a problem because the coach retains a bit of heat when the sun heats it up.
An unattended electric heater is fire just waiting to happen. I have seen it three times this winter alone. Not good advice.
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Old 03-07-2018, 12:09 PM   #80
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Actually a couple of strategically placed 60W or 100W light bulbs will do the trick.
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