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Old 08-10-2019, 10:47 PM   #21
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Rod,
Do you have any pictures of your setup?
It sounds pretty similar to what I'm thinking of adding to our "Toad in Training".
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1565477138

I've had it for just over a week, and I'm getting over 60 mpg with it!
(I wonder how it'll do,;when it's pushing the RV down the road? )
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Rod,
Do you have any pictures of your setup?
It sounds pretty similar to what I'm thinking of adding to our "Toad in Training".
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1565477138

I've had it for just over a week, and I'm getting over 60 mpg with it!
(I wonder how it'll do,;when it's pushing the RV down the road? )

Here's some pics I just snapped. One is the tow bar in the stowed position with cover. Next with the cover off and then pulled up ready to hook. The arms contract and extend about 8" to allow folding. They lock when fully extended. It's very convenient when hooking up because there's adjustment so you don't have to be perfectly spaced. This is not a unit that easily unhooks if you're not straight and level, but I keep a pry bar in the trunk and I've never been stuck.
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Rod,
Do you have any pictures of your setup?
It sounds pretty similar to what I'm thinking of adding to our "Toad in Training".
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1565477138

I've had it for just over a week, and I'm getting over 60 mpg with it!
(I wonder how it'll do,;when it's pushing the RV down the road? )
Don't you wish you still had the outlaw? You could have just drove it in the "garage"
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:33 PM   #24
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Flat tow

I use a blue ox base plate,475, and nsa brute tow bar, 450, it comes with safety cables and uses a built in surge brake system similar to a boat trailer. Light wiring 75 and you are ready to go
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodTX View Post
Here's some pics I just snapped. One is the tow bar in the stowed position with cover. Next with the cover off and then pulled up ready to hook. The arms contract and extend about 8" to allow folding. They lock when fully extended. It's very convenient when hooking up because there's adjustment so you don't have to be perfectly spaced. This is not a unit that easily unhooks if you're not straight and level, but I keep a pry bar in the trunk and I've never been stuck.
Thanks a whole bunch for those pictures!
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Mo_Mike View Post
Don't you wish you still had the outlaw? You could have just drove it in the "garage"
It would have been MIGHTY close...
108" garage; 106.1" car...
I'm not that precise in parking anything!
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Old 08-11-2019, 08:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Rod,
Do you have any pictures of your setup?
It sounds pretty similar to what I'm thinking of adding to our "Toad in Training".
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1565477138

I've had it for just over a week, and I'm getting over 60 mpg with it!
(I wonder how it'll do,;when it's pushing the RV down the road? )
So call me curious...when the toad is pushing the RV down the road, who's driving the RV? You or your better half?
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:10 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
... a simple rule-of-thumb is that a 4-down setup is going to cost you roughly the same as a tow dolly....
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post

there are pros and cons to both, so the choice is yours.


He's right about price and I'll add some additional comments: I find it easier to stow the tow bar set up if I'm staying somewhere long term. I can stash the tow bar, wiring, and brake assist in a storage bay of the RV - out of sight and out of the way.

My set up cost me about 1500. All of the stuff was used and bought on this forum. Good people, good deals. I did all the labor myself: base plate, wiring harness, brake assist, etc. I have the tools (e.g. torque wrench).

If you plan to do the install yourself, do some research on your firewall passage ways. The reason I say that is because I stumbled across a forum that was guiding someone through routing a 12v power source into the cabin of their vehicle. That's how I found out about a hidden rubber grommet I could use/modify/seal to carry the 12v payload I needed for the brake assist.

Don't skimp on a brake assist for two reasons: 1) all of them have a break-away switch. God forbid the toad breaks loose from the RV, the brake assist will apply the brakes and bring the vehicle to a stop. You don't want to be responsible for killing a family of 4 because you cheaped out on a brake assist. 2) Flip a coin. You can replace the brakes in your RV sooner because it has to stop a heavier load, or as I do, replace both sets of brakes because the brake assist is a proportional braking system (Blue Ox Patriot). It applies the brakes in the toad as the RV’s brakes are applied. There’s a ‘gain’ setting on the brake-assist to adjust the proportion. You can have the RV take more of the load of slowing the toad or the toad can bear most of the burden of slowing itself. If you forego a brake assist all together, have a darn good insurance policy or you could find yourself in the poor house real fast. JMHO.
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Old 08-11-2019, 10:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
So call me curious...when the toad is pushing the RV down the road, who's driving the RV? You or your better half?
Nobody ever told me; that someone had to be driving it!
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Old 08-11-2019, 10:28 PM   #30
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With the NSA Ready Brute Tow Bar is that all the brake you need?
The Ready Brute Elite is the tow bar and brake system all in the one unit. Will also need the brake away kit just in case the car becomes unhitched. All cars and trailers towed should have a brake away kit.

I did the install in an afternoon by myself on my Jeep. Some car may take longer depending on the car.

Jerry
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:39 AM   #31
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We added a Blue ox system to our 2014 30.1. Ended up about $2600 all in to tow a VW Beetle. Have always said it is the best mod we have done, couldn’t be happier.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:13 PM   #32
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Tow Mode

Quote:
Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
The Ready Brute Elite is the tow bar and brake system all in the one unit. Will also need the brake away kit just in case the car becomes unhitched. All cars and trailers towed should have a brake away kit.

I did the install in an afternoon by myself on my Jeep. Some car may take longer depending on the car.

Jerry
Just installed the "Ready Brute Elite" system on our (new to us) '97 Jeep TJ ( like new only 22,800 miles w/no rust). Have not traveled any where with as yet, but the install was simple and straight forward for a non-professional.

Total cost with break-away kit and lighting package $1640. That does not include the aftermarket steel bumper with Blue Ox brackets another $840.



Since the original manual does not have any info on 4 down towing. What is the proper procedure for putting the Jeep into tow mode?
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:37 PM   #33
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Can't tell you for your year jeep. But mine is this

Start engine put trans in neutral

Turn off engine put transfer case in neutral

Turn on engine put trans in reverse, should not go. Put in drive should not go

Turn off engine put trans in park

Remove key lock doors

My jeeps steering wheel does not lock so key can come out


You need to search online for your year and model

Good luck. Fun cars to drive

Jerry
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:22 AM   #34
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I tow my Honda CR-V with a Blue Ox set up. They wired in LED tail lights. I do not use an auxiliary brake system. My cost was around $1400. It has worked well and is easy to use.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:28 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
Can't tell you for your year jeep. But mine is this

Start engine put trans in neutral

Turn off engine put transfer case in neutral

Turn on engine put trans in reverse, should not go. Put in drive should not go

Turn off engine put trans in park

Remove key lock doors

My jeeps steering wheel does not lock so key can come out


You need to search online for your year and model

Good luck. Fun cars to drive

Jerry

Mine very similar (2010 Wrangler)...
The specific warning is not to shift the tranny into or out of park with engine running and transfer case in Neutral...

Jerry’s procedure conformed to that but wanted to point out the warning.

Mine also says disconnect the battery - though it’s been suggested it’s not necessary, I still do.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:11 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by gmc View Post
Mine very similar (2010 Wrangler)...
The specific warning is not to shift the tranny into or out of park with engine running and transfer case in Neutral...

Jerry’s procedure conformed to that but wanted to point out the warning.

Mine also says disconnect the battery - though it’s been suggested it’s not necessary, I still do.
I thought battery disconnect was only for locking steering which requires the key to be on to unlock

Guess each years manual is different
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:35 AM   #37
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I used Demco base plate and tow bar for the F150

After several years it has worked well and is priced right
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:39 AM   #38
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc View Post
Mine very similar (2010 Wrangler)...
The specific warning is not to shift the tranny into or out of park with engine running and transfer case in Neutral...

Jerry’s procedure conformed to that but wanted to point out the warning.

Mine also says disconnect the battery - though it’s been suggested it’s not necessary, I still do.



Thank you Halfprice and GMC for your input, (been so busy setting up rig for our next "adventure" forgot to respond). The '97 TJ has a steering lock, so will be disconnecting the battery. Will be test driving this weekend... thanks again.
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:33 AM   #39
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I leave the tow bar on the rig. Seems easier to connect and disconnect as well.
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:21 PM   #40
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It's one less thing to have to store someplace...
...And it also cuts down on a step, when you're getting ready to tow!
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