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-   -   Stability Control (http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f17/stability-control-3928.html)

jshemaidan 05-14-2016 03:00 AM

Stability Control
 
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and looking forward to it. We have purchased a 2016 thor ace 27.1, our first motorhome. The rv looks great but driving it is a bit shaky. Does the ace have stability control function? And how can it be improved?

JamieGeek 05-14-2016 03:17 AM

Did your dealer or yourself get an alignment? That is the first thing any motorhome owner should do.

The Guidrys 05-14-2016 06:53 AM

A proper alignment and correct tire pressure made a tremendous difference in the way my coach drove, rode and handled.

Ozzie322 05-18-2016 08:46 AM

Hi, I also have a ACE 2016 27.1 and also had some stability issues. I found a "cheap handling fix" for ace suspension. I adjusted the sway bar front and rear to make it stiffer. The stock sway bars can be adjusted to make the sway bar stiffer. There is a utube video on how to change the stiffness of sway bar by adjusting the hole setting to inside hole instead of outside hole. The other alternative is buying heavy duty sway bar about 3 to 4 hundred each. Any questions I'll gladly help any way I can. Ozzie

jshemaidan 05-19-2016 11:04 PM

Thanks Ozzie,
We are on the road in Utah and I am searching for a service center to do the work. Can you send me the link to utube ? Thanks

davidgebo 05-19-2016 11:48 PM

steering stabilizer
 
don't forget to install a Safety-T-Plus steering stabilizer, as well as the front-end alignment. They cost about $300.00 for the E-350-450 chassis, and $400.00 for the F-53 chassis. It costs about $200-300 for installation, best done when the front end is checked for alignment. The difference in handling after installation is just awesome. Plus, it is great tire blow-out protection to keep you on the highway and out of the ditch or on your side, flipped over.

Bob Montgomery 05-20-2016 12:55 AM

Safe-T-Plus
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by davidgebo (Post 34944)
don't forget to install a Safety-T-Plus steering stabilizer, as well as the front-end alignment. They cost about $300.00 for the E-350-450 chassis, and $400.00 for the F-53 chassis. It costs about $200-300 for installation, best done when the front end is checked for alignment. The difference in handling after installation is just awesome. Plus, it is great tire blow-out protection to keep you on the highway and out of the ditch or on your side, flipped over.

I asked about it at Bretz RV and the counter man (nice guy) wasn't really up on it. He wasn't sure how much good I would get out of it...and he estimated three hours ($375) for installation ...almost a grand for everything. No guarantee as to how well it worked etc.

I passed.

I would like to hear from anyone who actually put it on an ACE, what did it cost? How did it handle before and after.

Thanks in advance. :bow:

Ozzie322 05-20-2016 04:49 AM

Hi, this is the link I copied let me know if it works. You can go on utube and search for "cheap handeling fix". It a different MH but the same F-53 chassis. https://youtu.be/MozieIP58PY

Bob Montgomery 05-20-2016 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozzie322 (Post 34983)
Hi, this is the link I copied let me know if it works. You can go on utube and search for "cheap handeling fix". It a different MH but the same F-53 chassis. https://youtu.be/MozieIP58PY

Does this modification void the warranty?:angel:

davidgebo 05-20-2016 03:35 PM

steering stabilizers
 
If you talked to an RV service guy that was not "up on" steering stabilizers for RVs, then you don't want him working on your RV. Just go to Safe-T-Plus you tube video, to see the merits of having a unit installed on the steering system. The video will illustrate how these systems can save your life in a high-speed tire blowout. There are several steering stabilizers on the market, and any one of them will far outperform the factory damper units. It costs relatively little for the tremendous safety factor these things offer. I am totally sold on any owner having this margin of safety added to their coach. It really is a no-brainer.

davidgebo 05-20-2016 06:34 PM

warranty
 
no, Bob installation of a more substantial than factory-supplied stabilizer will not void the warranty. In fact, a Ford dealer did the installation on my Vegas. The Moss-Magnusen law prevents manufacturers from voiding warranties for installing aftermarket parts.

Ozzie322 05-20-2016 07:43 PM

No, the sway bar is made to be adjusted. Manufacturer put 2nd hole in sway bar. Ozzie

Chance 05-20-2016 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozzie322 (Post 34983)
Hi, this is the link I copied let me know if it works. You can go on utube and search for "cheap handeling fix". It a different MH but the same F-53 chassis. https://youtu.be/MozieIP58PY

That's a good idea to increase roll stiffness on a budget.

I watched the video and the main thing that would concern me is that this modification may limit suspension travel on front suspension. The links appear a little short when moved to secondary holes on sway bar (at front). The rear modification looks better by comparison.

Roll stiffness at front also wouldn't be very linear, or not as linear as originally installed by Ford. That would also concern me a little.

Ozzie322 05-21-2016 04:22 AM

Hi, I already did the modification and the RV handles much better. But it's up to each individual. I haven't taken a long trip yet. Without adjustment when I went to Texas the ride was very loose. It's not as stiff as I would like but is much better than what it was. I would like to change front and rear sway bars (Road Master bars) with heavy duty ones but for mean time RV handles better. Ozzie

Chance 05-21-2016 12:57 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I took a picture of link and front sway bar to better show what I noticed.

It would appear from picture (maybe it's not as bad as it looks) that if this particular motorhome's frame/body lifted relative to axle, that the link and sway bar arm would start to approach a straight line (relative to pivot point). Most sway bars I've noticed before had that angle closer to 90 degrees. The picture also makes it appear that if connected to outer hole the angle between link and bar end would be much more favorable.

In this RV it looks like if the body rolls, when one side goes up and the other down, you'd end up with much different angles and therefore geometry at both sides. Maybe that's by design, or perhaps Ford makes longer links for the second set of holes. I don't know but I'm curious now to find out.

TyCreek 05-21-2016 08:06 PM

Reducing the leverage arm length increases the amount of torque generated by the bar. Though any other than right angle link arm connections to the frame (or parallel to suspension travel) will introduce less than optimal angular forces.

Spring rates is another factor for body roll and should not be overlooked in the quest for stability.

What does a sway bar do? It borrows spring rate by leverage during unequal suspension travel conditions.

What does a steering stabilizer do? It dampens movement in the tie rod (think shock absorber). Increased dampening reduces road forces transferred to the steering wheel (perceived stability). Primarily fixes the driver not the vehicle and can heavily mask vehicle suspension issues. Can be disconnected to better assess suspension tuning needs, though for safety reasons at least a stock dampener should be used for normal travel.

A vehicles handling characteristics should be understood for proper tuning. The basics:
1) proper tire pressures
2) proper right height when fully loaded for travel (fix any sag Front/Rear/Left/Right). this could mean; rebalance load, adding a leaf or changing spring rate. A new rig doesn't mean springs are matched for their real loads or that proper suspension positioning is being maintained.
3) alignment tuning after above ^^^. Consider upper range caster and toe in values for RV type use. Don't forget that the rear might need adjustment too, especially when a wheelbase was extended after factory build.

Once these basics are correctly tuned: then determine if other tuning options like trac-bar, sway-bar, stabilizer, shocks, etc... are worth it. Don't get caught up in marketing Kool-Aid, assess behaviors for what they are and address them accordingly.

lwrver2 05-29-2016 02:37 PM

Safe-T-Plus for A.C.E. 27.1
 
I have a new 2016 A.C.E. 27.1 MH and I want to install a Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer to make it more stable. I have seen two different Safe-T-Plus part numbers mentioned for the F-53 chassis used on the A.C.E. series. They are the 41-140 (red) and the 41-180 (tan), so can anyone please tell me which part number is correct and recommended for that 28ft. class A unit?

Thanks!

Ozzie322 05-29-2016 03:54 PM

Hi, I am not familiar with Safe t stabilizer. I installed steer straight and that improved my stability on steering. I also changed the position of holes on both sway bars to inner hole and that helped also. What I plan to do is change the front and rear sway bar for a heavier (thicker) sway bar. I have read on RV forums and on u tube. That that really makes a big difference. Ozzie

DocMike 05-29-2016 04:19 PM

Iwrver2,


When we got our Safe-T-Plus on the Vegas I was told the number on the Bar was indicated by the individual vehicle. They requested the VIN number, make and model of RV and a couple of other questions and decided I needed the 140# one.


We looked on line and found the Manufacturing plant in Ga. By purchasing thru them the install was free. Also, got a tour of the plant, watched them make some of the various sizes (The Vegas got the smallest, some looked about the size of an old timey pot-belly stove exhaust pipe), the answered all my questions and we got a couple of Safe-T-Plus ball caps!


Recommend checking the website to see if there is a plant near you. Ours was very friendly and answered a lot of questions on the phone then at the plant.


Cost: $450 for the unit, $50.50 for some mounting hardware and taxes.


Doc

lwrver2 05-29-2016 08:20 PM

Safe-T-Plus for A.C.E. 27.1
 
Hello All,
Thanks for the recommendations. I'll first contact Safe-T-Plus for specifics before I order. Unfortunately I'm too far away to let them do the install, but I should be able to find someone local to do it. I want to wait until I can get the "toad" car hooked up so they can set it up with that weight already attached. I'll post back later with results.

Thanks!


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