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Thread: AC temperature
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:09 PM   #8
Chance
Senior Member
 
Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 6,187
THOR #2121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tytlfamily View Post
This blurp from the link below:

Air conditioning systems have their limits. Each unit is designed for a given temperature drop in degrees. A typical system is designed to cool up to 20 degrees. The temperature differential (also known as Delta T) between the condensor's intake air and the evaporator's output air will be 20 degrees and no more. So, if you have 100 degree air entering your system the output temperature will never be any lower than 80 degrees. As the intake air cools down the output air temperature will also be lowered so the cooling will improve the longer it runs. They key is to start it early enough before the temperatures get too extreme.

RV Air Conditioning Service
I think the 20 F is being discussed out of context. It's not an inherent "maximum" at which point an air conditioning system no longer works. The article reads to me to say that a "typical" system is designed for cooling up to 20 F below ambient, but that's not limited by the equipment as much as by its sizing. Engineers have to size the equipment for some specific condition and it sounds like 20 F is typical.

What happens is that as the inside temperature drops, or to a lesser degree the outside temperature increases, the capacity of a given air conditioner is reduced. This effect limits how cold you can get the inside temperature very quickly. As the RV's temperature drops, the heat load increases and at the same time the AC's capacity is reduced. Basically what this means is that if you want to run 40 F below ambient instead of 20 F below ambient, it takes a lot more than doubling your "rated" AC capacity which is set under standard conditions. A 15,000 BTU/hr AC is not always capable of that rating because it changes with conditions.

If an RV has two identical ACs it will get cooler than if it only has one. The main limitation is capacity versus load. And for what it's worth, humidity just adds to load. It's just more BTU/hr that have to be pumped.


By the way, I did not realize the article you were quoting was mostly about the engine-driven AC system, not the roof-mounted AC I assumed you were interested in. Regardless, the principles are all the same with exception that engine-driven compressors spin at different speeds.
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