Thor Forums

[TurnerFam]

RVs, especially higher end motorhomes with 'fancier' electrical systems and amenities, can be a learning curve for most of us... the days of just 'jumping in and going on vacation' might be harder than just that.

As for the plugging into less than 50amps and getting some '15amp' reading, your system, the EMS(elec management sys) senses either TWO lines of incoming power(50amp, which is TWO 50amp hot lines equalling 100amps), OR it does not, and therefore 'assumes' that you are on ONLY 15amp service, UNLESS you tell it differently, such as either 20amp or 30amp. The system can then appropriately provide power to the air conditioners and items that it can under that power supply.
Your GENERATOR is typically sized to give you all the power you need to run most everything, simultaneously, on your coach, so the EMS therefore doesn't have to be involved in monitoring it.

When you 'adapt' to 30amp or 20amp or 15amps of power, you have to tell your coach what amount of power you have access to... the best way is to use the size of the outlet's BREAKER that you are plugging into.
You can also purchase several 'dogbone' adapters that give you access to TWO different 30amp outlets, a 30amp and 20amp, or even just TWO 15amp household outlets, to give you the ability to get as much power into your coach as possible.

As for why the air conditioners aren't performing the way you expect, they too have their own issues that must be attended to. Opening the main duct to blow straight down is a good method, and closing all windows and fan vents during their operation is preferred...but, there ARE times when heat and humidity make for difficult temperature control in RVs, especially when there is no shade on the roof.
We put several table top fans around the coach on really hot days, which provides a lot of additional movement of air, which can be just as important as the temperature itself.