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I'm thinking that I would then try to keep it on a circuit within the Inverter's subpanel, which, if you coach is similar to mine, will be the far right 4) 15amp breakers in your panel, with the last 30amp being the 'incoming' power from the Inverter(it's run backwards since it is a separate power source to these several 15amp breakers, this is a custom panel design which provides the two 50amp rear power bars from the ATS, and this 'inverter' power bar for the outlets - essentially, an integrated 'sub panel')...
This way you 'can' still use it when off grid, if the situation requires it, at least for a short period.
It's similar to our coffee maker, when only on the inverter - it can handle it, but make sure the LBCO setting is set artificially LOW, such as 10.0, during it's heating cycle, or the Inverter will cut everything off - not fun. The LBCO will react after only 30seconds of 'low' battery voltage, whereas the AGS has to see low voltage for more than two CONTINUOUS minutes before it will kick on. When finished, turn the LBCO back up to 11.0 to 11.5 where it should probably normal be. It's just a backstop in case the AGS can't crank and recharge the batteries.
The main panel's far right 4) 15amp breakers serve ALL of your outlets in the coach, including the fridge, microwave, tvs, bedroom, etc.
If the cooktop comes with a standard 15amp male plug, then I would simply run a new 'extension' plug from one of the bunk outlets, or the lower booth outlet, that can then run under the kitchen cabinets and then simply provide an 'outlet' to plug the cooktop into. No 'raw' wiring, cutting, or junction box needed.
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