Quote:
Originally Posted by axis earl
Exactly the same area where I had high moisture content. Check the different threads on this and you will see the pictures I posted where I paid to have both windows removed to figure this out. The culprit was where the side of the front cap meets the side wall. Poorly caulked screws and the point where these two meet under the top rear portion of the windows allow moisture intrusion. The water was apparently channeling down the aluminum and ending up in the rectangular portion you are identifying.
To further investigate your suspicions, find a business that repairs water damage in homes. They should have an infrared type moisture device. Once you get one, point it at the inside walls underneath the windows. When we did this, it showed "blue" or high moisture in the same rectangular locations. I even purchased a moisture "probe" for around $25 that you stick into the wall and the results aligned with the infrared device.
Hopefully, you can caulk in the locations I pointed out instead of paying $1400-$1500 to removed and replace the windows. By the way, the wood directly under the windows was not moist or damaged by water once the windows were removed. Water intrusion is a real pain and identifying it can be quite vexing. Good luck. Glad you have this forum for reference. I dealt with the problem the hard way.
|
I'm still wondering where the water goes that hits the front driver/passenger windows, at (inside) the rubber flap area. There are no weep holes underneath.
Anyone?
Thor Forums
