Thor Forums

[petef]

I finally got a nice little AMP meter and knife switch cut off installed so I can totally isolate the coach battery and see the amp draws. One thing I saw first was the extra 3 amp draw when parked, and by disconnecting the chassis wire to the control box the draw went to 1.25, so the chassis battery was sucking alot of juice, yet nothing was on. Now when dry camping I disconnect the cable, it does supply the fan motor mentioned above, maybe has something to do with it all. With the Store switch active I found I still had a .62 amp draw off the coach battery, reason for the knife switch disconnect. I found the slide sucks .30 amp, so long trips at the campground I pull that 30amp fuse. The radio is a hog, almost a 1 amp, so it is not on a rocker switch, I cut the red wire going into the control box to the radio fuse and ran them thru the rocker switch. With the radio off it drew .60 amp. The fridge takes about .60 amp, no problem. Watch your TV selector in the cabinet, it draws .10-.20amp, so shut it off when not watching TV. I killed 3 batteries within 1 1/2 years so trying to nail down the culprit.. I think the ideas above offer the best, cheapest solution. If you plug in everywhere you should have no problems. I should mention the gas heater drew about 6 amps. I have changed most lights inside to LED and have an LED solar desk lamp I use. I have a 100w solar panel I out outside, it is rated for about 4.5 amps charge. I have 2 100 amp batteries, so really 50% is available, so 100 amps, but it came with only 1 battery so anyone who has not modified is sitting on 50amps of power, and with amps adding up so fast your battery could be dead overnight. Do some math, see what you need, test voltages and you to can figure it out. Bottom line the wiring is messed up in these things.