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Old 12-04-2015, 06:33 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 31L
State: South Carolina
Posts: 20
THOR #3217
2016 Chateau 31L - wh, water pump, various ??

* fresh water and water pump
when not hooked up to a shore water line - and with the fresh water tank full - do you keep the water pump turned on at all times?
do you turn on and off as you need hot water?
is there something within the water pump to know if there is water feeding it or not - so that it turns itself off so it does not burn out?
is there any need to have the water pump on when hooked up to shore water - or is it solely for the fresh water tank?

* cable hookup and antenna
when you are at a site that has cable and you hook up to the cable - do you need to turn off the on-board power antenna?

* water heater
there are 2 water heater switches on the panel - LP and electric. We have not had success starting the water heater.
once you know the water tank is full (either water pump turned on for fresh water tank - or - hooked into shore water for 15 minutes or so) - do you switch on both and let the water heater figure out which to use (electric or LP)?
is there a pilot light that may need to be re-lit?
is there something within the water heater to know if there is water feeding it or not - so that it turns itself off so it does not burn out?

* low level drains
i have found the access point to the back low level drains under the bed. where is the access point for the front low level drains? behind the stove? behind the sink? where exactly is the secret panel to access the valve to release the water?

* san-t-flush
when you hook up the hose to the san-t-flush - does it only go into the black tank? or does it go to the gray tank as well?
how long should you run the water into the san-t-flush before releasing the black tank (and gray if it goes in there too)?

* dry winterizing steps
due to allergies and sensitivities to taste - we prefer to not fill the potable water lines with anti-freeze (pink stuff) and will be going the dry-winterizing route. can you help confirm the following steps?
- water heater off
- water pump off
- drain fresh water tank
- pull drain plug from water heater
- using bypass valves behind panel next to toilet - set water heater to bypass
- open hot and cold on outside shower - close when water stops
- open hot and cold on kitchen sink shower - close when water stops
- open hot and cold on inside shower - close when water stops
- open hot and cold on bathroom sink shower - close when water stops
- hold flush on toilet until water stops
- hook air compressor (set at 50psi) to shore water inlet
- open hot and cold on outside shower - run compressor - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
- open hot and cold on kitchen sink shower - run compressor - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
- open hot and cold on inside shower - run compressor - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
- open hot and cold on bathroom sink shower - run compressor - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
- hold flush on toilet - run compressor - turn off when water stops - release flush
- pour pink stuff in kitchen sink to fill trap
- pour pink stuff in inside shower to fill trap
- pour pink stuff in bathroom sink to fill trap
- dump gray tank
- dump black tank
- pour pink stuff in toilet while holding flush to get into black tank - about 1/2 gallon - release flush
- pour pink stuff in toilet to cover seals
- done? did i miss a step or am i doing something in the wrong order?
how do you get some pink stuff into the gray tank?

Thank you for any and all insight!

--jeri
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:41 PM   #2
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THOR #1150
I can answer some:
Water pump: It simply has a pressure switch on it: When the pressure in the system drops below a set-point the pump turns on. When the pressure goes above the set-point it turns off. Very simple.
Thus: If you leave the pump on and hook up city water: As long as the city water pressure is above the pressure switch set-point the pump won't run. The thing is: When you open a faucet the pressure in the system will drop momentarily (until either the city water backfills or the pump backfills). Typically you don't want the pump to run when connected to city water...we leave it off when connected to city water. When camping without a water hookup we'll leave the pump switch on all the time.

Cable: Yes turn off the amplifier when hooked to cable.

I don't blow out our water system (we don't notice the taste of the pink stuff and my compressor doesn't have the oomph to do the job).
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:51 PM   #3
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Thank you, Jamie. Appreciate the feedback.
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:42 PM   #4
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Water heater - if you have both switches on the heater will use both AC and propane (provided the propane tank is turned on). This is a quick way to get hot water when first hooking up. We do not boondock so we have only ever used the hot water heater on electric. Have never had a problem with hot water or having to wait for it. That's even with my wife & I taking showers immediately after each other. Additionally, the hot water thermostat is a 140 degree stay and that is pretty hot so be sure to mix cold or you could get scalded.

Antenna amp -- if you hook up cable and DO NOT turn off the amp, the TVs will not work.
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:29 AM   #5
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2016 Chateau 31L - wh, water pump, various ??

I'll try to answer some of these when I get to my computer. Much faster then using my iPhone. Can answer most since we have the same model.
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:52 AM   #6
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THOR #1469
Water heater

When connected or with pump running, on the water heater carefully open the pressure relief valve to make sure there is water in the tank. I have seen them have an air lock and electric heating elements burn out because there was no water in the tank. Be careful, if the water inside is hot it could burn you if the tank is full.

Water pump is not required when using shore based (city) water. Some folks use it if the city water pressure is extremely low.

As someone mentioned using both LPG and Electric during initial heating reduces the time required for hot water. We also use both when taking showers for the same reason and then switch back to electric only when connected to shore power.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:04 AM   #7
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Dry winterizing,

Connect the compressor and leave it running while winterizing. Set the pressure to 45PSI rather than 50. This allows a little creep before hitting the max 50PSI stated in the owners manual.

Second to last step, with the compressor connected and running, open the low point drains to blow out any residual.

Last step, after disconnecting the compressor open all faucets to remove residual air pressure from the lines. I blew my lines out last week and yesterday I had about 25PSI of air in the lines because I forgot to open a faucet after disconnecting my compressor.

Antifreeze in the grey tank, you get it in there by pouring some down the sink or shower drain.

Don't forget the ice maker line if you have one. Turn off the ice maker valve and disconnect the water line so it can drain.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:30 PM   #8
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THOR #3217
Thank you Ed & Bev.

Thank you, Dave.

Question on the low point drains. I was at CW yesterday with the rig getting some of the punch list fixed and questioned them on the location of the low point drains, and they said there was no need to drain them.... <sigh>

I have found the location of the low point drains on the outside/bottom. Following those locations up into the rv - I believe the valves to release the water for the back ones are under the bed. I cannot find the front ones - maybe behind the stove? Can you describe how you release the valve? It is not just a turn valve like the fresh water drain - it is pex tubing and nothing seems like it moves/turns. thank you.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstandiford View Post
I'll try to answer some of these when I get to my computer. Much faster then using my iPhone. Can answer most since we have the same model.
looking forward to your reply, pstandiford - happy to see someone with same model :-)
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrophy View Post
Thank you Ed & Bev.

Thank you, Dave.

Question on the low point drains. I was at CW yesterday with the rig getting some of the punch list fixed and questioned them on the location of the low point drains, and they said there was no need to drain them.... <sigh>

I have found the location of the low point drains on the outside/bottom. Following those locations up into the rv - I believe the valves to release the water for the back ones are under the bed. I cannot find the front ones - maybe behind the stove? Can you describe how you release the valve? It is not just a turn valve like the fresh water drain - it is pex tubing and nothing seems like it moves/turns. thank you.
My low point drains are all valves similar to the water heater by pass valves.

On my prior class C the cold water low point drain was a valve whereas the hot water low point drain was a black plug, at the end of the hose, that unscrewed to drain. On that class C I found that drain because I was wondering what was leaking from the bottom of my coach one day. It was that plug coming unscrewed while traveling.

I am not familiar with your model but it is quite possible you only have one set of low point drains. If you asked for and received a fresh water diagram from Thor it should show you the low point drains.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:27 PM   #11
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Model: Chateau 35SF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrophy View Post
Thank you Ed & Bev.

Thank you, Dave.

Question on the low point drains. I was at CW yesterday with the rig getting some of the punch list fixed and questioned them on the location of the low point drains, and they said there was no need to drain them.... <sigh>

I have found the location of the low point drains on the outside/bottom. Following those locations up into the rv - I believe the valves to release the water for the back ones are under the bed. I cannot find the front ones - maybe behind the stove? Can you describe how you release the valve? It is not just a turn valve like the fresh water drain - it is pex tubing and nothing seems like it moves/turns. thank you.
It looks like most of your original questions have been answered. Regarding low point drains. I got a schematic from Thor and they showed two sets of low point drains. Both were in the low point where the lines cross from the drivers side to the passengers side of the coach. One set on each side. However, I only had one set of low point drains in that line. It was approximately in the center of the coach and can be reached under the bed. The valves do not turn. You pull up on them to drain. To the best of my knowledge that is the only set of low point drains. I don't consider the fresh water tank drain to really be a low point drain. It is quite obvious where that one is. The Thor schematic did not show a set of low point drains in the front. (But you have me wondering now so I may run over to the coach and crawl under to look for any pipes sticking down. To be quite honest, I really wonder if it would be necessary to open the low point drains. I use antifreeze and I think that a good flow of antifreeze through those low lines would PROBABLY protect them. But, the low point drains are there so I'm going to use them. Don't want to take a chance.

You will have to get antifreeze into you gray tank through the shower or your kitchen sink drain. Your bathroom sink drains into the black tank.

And one thing that you didn't mention is the water filter. It is hidden away behind a non removable panel on the left side of the kitchen sink. You MIGHT be able to reach it buy removing the two drawers to the left of the sink. (You can definitely see it from there.) I was not able to get the wrench on it so I actually cut away the panel on the left side and that made accessing it much easier. I doubt very much that you could blow that out with a compressor and the filter should be removed before using antifreeze. If you do a search for my previous posts you will see pictures of where the filter is located. I also posted the schematic that Thor provided. Be aware that there are errors in the schematic since it shows that the filter is a "whole coach" filter but it really just filters the cold water at the kitchen sink.

I think all of your other questions were answered but if not let me know. There is at least one other 31L owner on the forum so you are not alone. We just got ours in July of this year so we are still learning.

Happy camping,
Paul
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:49 PM   #12
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I'm at my unit right now and you are correct. The second set of drains is behind the drawer under the stove. They are not shown on the schematic.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:24 PM   #13
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THOR #3217
Thank you, Paul.

Looks like they made one improvement between the first manufacturing run of 2016 and the second run - the water filter is easily reached as they mounted it right under the sink in the cabinet - see pic below.

I have updated the dry winterizing checklist to include the filter (thank you).

2016 Thor Chateau 31L - dry winterizing

switch water heater off at panel (both LP and electric)
switch water pump off at panel
drain fresh water tank from outside valve
remove filter from under kitchen sink, close back up
pull drain plug from water heater
open hot and cold on outside shower - close when water stops
open hot and cold on kitchen sink shower - close when water stops
open hot and cold on inside shower - close when water stops
open hot and cold on bathroom sink shower - close when water stops
hold flush on toilet until water stops
hook air compressor (set at 45psi) to shore water inlet
run to empty water heater
using bypass valves behind panel next to toilet - set water heater to bypass
put drain plug back into water heater
open hot and cold on outside shower - push air - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
open hot and cold on kitchen sink shower - push air - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
open water filter canister and empty - close back up
open hot and cold on inside shower - push air - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
open hot and cold on bathroom sink shower - push air - turn off when water stops - close hot and cold
hold flush on toilet - push air - turn off when water stops - release flush
pour pink stuff in kitchen sink to fill trap
pour pink stuff in inside shower to fill trap and overflow to gray tank
pour pink stuff in bathroom sink to fill trap
dump gray tank
dump black tank
open low level drains
pour pink stuff in toilet while holding flush to get into black tank - about 1/2 gallon - release flush
pour pink stuff in toilet to cover seals
disconnect compressor
open all faucets to remove residual air
close faucets
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:43 PM   #14
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That is exactly where the schematic shows it.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:52 PM   #15
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THOR #1469
The outlet side of that filter only feeds the kitchen faucet?

That appears to be the same Flow-Pur filter that feeds my entire coach. It would be a shame if yours only filters the sink and not lavatory, shower or ice maker.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:52 PM   #16
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That is exactly where the schematic shows it.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:54 PM   #17
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I was told mine only fed the kitchen sink and based on explorations of the unit I think this is correct. On my unit anyway. The schematic does make it seem like a whole house but the schematic is not correct for my unit.
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Old 12-06-2015, 02:31 PM   #18
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Appreciate all the feedback and guidance provided. ready to give winterizing a go :-)
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Old 01-25-2017, 01:03 AM   #19
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Well I didnt do none of that cause normally we don't get freezing temps..so I did like most..forgot to winter prep by RV. Now I have a busted Flow-Pur Filter canister. Haven't check the rest of the RV like the water heater and other areas for damage.
My first problem: What is the part number to change my Flow-Pur Filter canister?
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