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Old 09-19-2017, 01:27 PM   #1
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All batteries drained

3 weeks in storage ( I have gone much longer ) and all of my batteries were drained, 2 house and one engine. I had to jump the engine battery, then started the generator. The engine battery took a long time to reach a level sufficient to start the engine again.

I am sure I engaged the "store" setting, but what would cause the engine battery to be depleted along with the house system.

I am back in storage with full charges around, and will check it in a week or so. After the winter shut down I will be replacing every battery, and hopefully upgrading in the process.

It has me considering a small solar unit to maintain the engine battery at least.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:02 PM   #2
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You have we several that cause a draw even with switch in store mode, LP/CO detector for one, any electronics with internal timers, any illuminated light switches. You best option is to disconnect the the batteries.
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:35 PM   #3
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I have had really good luck keeping batteries on a float charger when my vehicles are stored. I would find a good solar charger & charge controller. I hate hearing about guys that have to use RV storage with no power to keep batteries maintained.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:46 PM   #4
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Yes, a solar panel on the roof is the best investment you can make, if your RV is in storage (outside) for any length of time.

I put a 100 watt panel on the roof and it keeps my 3 batteries (chassis and house) nicely charged between trips, and that sometimes is a month or longer.

I just check the batteries for fluid level from time to time, and run the generator and air conditioning every couple of weeks, but never have a problem with the batteries.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:55 PM   #5
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Nothing normal should cause the ENGINE battery to drain in 3 weeks... I'd expect any vehicle to be able to sit a month or more without an engine battery issue (assuming battery is in good condition).

(And really - on a properly wired coach - nothing should cause the COACH batteries to drain when in STORE either... detectors, illuminated light switches, electronics should ALL go OFF.)
I just had my rig unplugged in STORE for about 6 weeks before I fired up the engine/genny in prep for Irma - didn't miss a beat...

Solar chargers can help mask a problem... It may be simpler on coach side to put a hard disconnect if there are items bypassing the use/store... but shouldn't have to do the same for the chassis battery...
(Now if your BCC or BIRD/Trombetta isn't properly isolating your batteries - and there is draw when in STORE - or you left it in USE - that could explain it... I'd want to fix the problem rather than add a solar charger...)
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:25 PM   #6
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I agree: add a switch that leaves no doubt as to whether or not the batteries are disconnected.

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Old 09-19-2017, 07:33 PM   #7
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...well yea of course you don't want to mask a problem. I didn't mean that. I have a shunt in series with the batteries and the load and I know the parasitic draw is very very low because the Trimetric meter shows me that in real time.

Or you can go low-tech and measure current with a multimeter. And of course, if you measure substantial current draw with the switch in "Store" then the fun begins as you try to determine what device or devices are still connected.

At any rate, a solar panel is nice insurance.
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom N3EQF View Post
At any rate, a solar panel is nice insurance.
I agree: The Missus and I are investigating them...
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:45 PM   #9
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One thing that I forgot to mention is that if your batteries had been discharged to a very low voltage previously (especially if more than once), it's very possible they aren't holding a charge for very long. That's true even for very young batteries. I remember when I bought my RV brand new the batteries were in very bad shape, and had to be replaced.
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:56 PM   #10
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If (When?) the time comes to replace the batteries: would you suggest a marine deep-cycle type?
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
If (When?) the time comes to replace the batteries: would you suggest a marine deep-cycle type?
The coach batteries should already be deep cycle batteries, but the chassis battery is your normal automotive battery.
Yes, the factory disconnect DOES NOT disconnect those items mentioned, I totally agree it should. It also does not disconnect the control panel to electric slides.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:11 PM   #12
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I know that about 30 seconds after I opened the door and the stair did not extend, all possible root cause investigation was eliminated because I started hitting switches, buttons, breakers in the battery compartment, etc.

The dash was dead as dead, way beyond the clicking noise when trying to crank.

I connected a weak jump battery to the chassis bat, and the dash came to life, but would not turn the starter. This also brought brief life to my inverter panel, but it soon went blank again.

Would leaving headlights on drain the house batteries, do they have a auto shut off? Im thinking something had to be left on, but what would reasonably drain both sides of the electrical system.
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wredman View Post
I know that about 30 seconds after I opened the door and the stair did not extend, all possible root cause investigation was eliminated because I started hitting switches, buttons, breakers in the battery compartment, etc.

The dash was dead as dead, way beyond the clicking noise when trying to crank.

I connected a weak jump battery to the chassis bat, and the dash came to life, but would not turn the starter. This also brought brief life to my inverter panel, but it soon went blank again.

Would leaving headlights on drain the house batteries, do they have a auto shut off? Im thinking something had to be left on, but what would reasonably drain both sides of the electrical system.
Even in the store position there is considerable parasitic drain on the batteries!
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wredman View Post
...
Would leaving headlights on drain the house batteries, do they have a auto shut off? Im thinking something had to be left on, but what would reasonably drain both sides of the electrical system.
Should only drain the chassis battery... No auto shutoff... No chimes...
If batteries are not properly isolated when not plugged in or running Genny - would drain both... The Battery Control Center (BCC) or BIRD/Trombeta provide this function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Even in the store position there is considerable parasitic drain on the batteries!
Not the case in mine... And OP says he head left in store longer in past as well.
Certainly have been different experiences in this area.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:56 PM   #15
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Batteries died while plugged in

I had my new 29m winterized about a month ago and left it In my driveway plugged into 110 power. I went to check it today and all batteries were dead. I know the 110 was working as the inside lights worked fine. My batteries always stayed charged in my old class c when connected to 110 power. Any ideas why the would discharge on newer class A.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:48 PM   #16
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Pete -- when plugged in to shore power did you have the USE/STORE in USE. When you were plugged in 110 VAC was going to the converter. In the converter 110 VAC and 12 VDC (from the converter's rectifier) were being provided to the coach so everything would be working.

BUT, (at least on my Vegas) if the USE/SORE was not in USE 12 VDC would not have been being provided to the house batteries or chassis battery to keep them charged. USE/STORE must be in USE to keep batteries charged.
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:19 PM   #17
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Pretty sure I left it in store. Iíll switch it to use and see if thatís the problem. Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:16 AM   #18
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House batteries seem always to have parasitic electrical draws, as said clocks, timers, sensors and??? Chassis batteries too, since the computer is never completely off, supporting things like security systems & sensors. I have a Chevy HHR, the manual states that maximum time the car can be parked without running or any charge and can reliably be started by its own battery is 28 days. I know for a fact that the Mercedes chassis the Gemini is built on, has a computer that although is very low drain, is always on, even with the ignition off. I am installing a scan gauge II in it, and have been told that the gauge backlight and display shuts off when it senses zero RPM, but there remains constant power to it through the OBD II port, and although the battery drain is very low, there remains some.
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:34 AM   #19
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Had the same problem. There is a solenoid that connects the house and chassis batteries together. This allows the house to charge the chassis and when the engine is running it charges the house. Do a forum search for bird and/or trombetta. Here is the one I used as a replacement in mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-10-2017, 02:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevedfelker View Post
Pete -- when plugged in to shore power did you have the USE/STORE in USE. When you were plugged in 110 VAC was going to the converter. In the converter 110 VAC and 12 VDC (from the converter's rectifier) were being provided to the coach so everything would be working.

BUT, (at least on my Vegas) if the USE/SORE was not in USE 12 VDC would not have been being provided to the house batteries or chassis battery to keep them charged. USE/STORE must be in USE to keep batteries charged.
Bottom line for the less likely to understand. (sounds better than stupid)
Anytime the coach (ACE) is connected to shore power (110 all the time at home) the USE/STORE switch should always be in USE to allow the charging of "all" batteries?
I did have the front bat go down on me a week after I brought the coach home. The house bats were low but not down. Salesman said to always place in STORE when not in use.
Please confirm.
Thanks.
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