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Old 10-17-2022, 03:37 PM   #1
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Can't Cool Coach While Driving

Driving on a hot day (108 F) and both Roof Top ACs working (generator on) and Coach engine AC blasting and the coach could not get cooler than 92 degrees with all slides in (while driving).

Took it to Giant RV...no fault found...


We were dying in there at 92 degrees and all the other coaches we had ...would have been about 82 degrees bearable.

Has anyone had similar issues with Aria.

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Old 10-17-2022, 03:48 PM   #2
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I moved your post to its own thread as it has nothing to do with "heat pumps".

You need to determine if the individual A/Cs are working as expected by measuring the difference between the input and output air of each unit on high. The roof units should have a 15 to 20 degree difference, the dash should be at least 20 degrees.

You have a large coach with a lot of material in it and a large windshield which can het you up pretty good especially if it's facing the sun. I have found that pre-cooling the coach before you travel helps keep it comfortable while traveling so you are not trying to cool down everything inside the coach that could be at 100 degrees from just sitting in the sun.
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Old 10-17-2022, 06:01 PM   #3
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I agree with Ace. There is a lot of 'stuff' inside a coach to cool off and once it gets hot, it is almost impossible for a dash or rooftop cooling system to catch up. I always pre-cool my unit before a trip in the summer time and it definitely helps.
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Old 10-17-2022, 10:06 PM   #4
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2019 Aria 3901. Yes, at 108 temps, unless we stayed proactive cooling the coach overnight and throughout the day, including shutting all the blinds, temps inside will be low 90s. If we are proactive, then we can get the inside temps feeling reasonable bit not great. 108 is tough to cool down.
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Old 10-17-2022, 10:17 PM   #5
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You don’t say what yea4 your coach is. What model are AC units? Unless it’s brand new you may also need some servicing and Maintainence regardless of what the dealer says.stick a thermometer in a duct close to an AC unit. What does it read?
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Old 10-17-2022, 10:24 PM   #6
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I have a '20 Magnitude SV34 Super C so a different floor plan and only 35' long. I have also made some A/C mods (insulating the evaporator enclosure on the roof, improving vent airflow, etc.) but I was in Arizona last month when it was 105F and had no issues.

Now my F-550 A/C is awesome and the Class A's have other issues like the massive windshield and custom dash A/C but we do the following when traveling on very hot days:

- Keep shades closed
- Keep the curtain closed at the cab-over bunk
- Put Camco Insulating Pillows in the fans / vents
- Once the temps hit mid-80's in the back, I will kick on the generator and A/C units
- Start the day with the A/C's running if we know we are heading for temps over 90

To make sure you A/C units are functioning properly, you should take a digital temperature gauge and measure the temp going into each A/C return and then measure the air temp coming out of each A/C. If your A/C is working properly, the temperature differential should be 16 - 22 degrees for a Colman Mach A/C unit.

If the A/C's are working properly, you need to make sure you cover every opening where sunlight can enter.
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Old 10-18-2022, 06:09 PM   #7
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my tuscany is UNREAL to cool if we get 100F plus outside
the roof just is not that insulated.


we practice closing all blinds, a sun screen in the big window when parked made from the silver bubble stuff with fabric on both sides, my wife made it.


we use fans to move air from dead spots and keep all the HOT ceiling lights off,


we have 2 15k btu roof units
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Old 10-19-2022, 12:52 AM   #8
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You could also try insulating the interior of the cabinets along the walls. A lot of heat comes through those thin side walls with the sun bearing down on it. When parked close all windows plus I added reflective material to all of the windows on the interior to keep the sun out. I just leave that material on the windows while driving except the ones at the dinette if we have rear passengers going with us.

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Old 10-19-2022, 02:15 AM   #9
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We installed heavy black out curtains from Ikea. I made a rod and hanger to support the material. Huge difference as the heat from the couch doesn't come through and your ac up front stays up front. When we park we close the drapes so all the heat from up front Durant cone back.
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Old 10-19-2022, 03:56 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Mulerider View Post
We installed heavy black out curtains from Ikea. I made a rod and hanger to support the material. Huge difference as the heat from the couch doesn't come through and your ac up front stays up front. When we park we close the drapes so all the heat from up front Durant cone back.
we did that for the entry door, they hang all the way down to the floor past the steps
made a huge difference
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Old 10-19-2022, 06:18 AM   #11
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What was AC thermostats set for?
What was temperature inside / outside when generator 1st came on?

On any trip where we know it will hit 90 degrees, I turn on AGS with setpoint of 80 on both ACs.

The coach never goes above 80 and my wife freezes. I have to turn down the cabin air to balance or reduce air blowing.

I think the hottest I could recall was 104; Dallas and a very humid Houston once. We don't have any thing special, but we do pull the MCD shades down when not in use or facing direct sun.

At those temperatures the ACs will run constantly, but I have never seen in hotter than 83 inside while driving.

we have 2 Coleman 13.5btu and 29ft RV.

One other thing to try, I have never done this while driving but when parked and no Cabin AC running and we had guest, I shut down the ducted vents in bedroom, forcing all air to the front and had the front AC grille vents wide open to force all or most of the air in the front straight down. I have to pull the MCD shade on windshield and driver / passenger sides down, put awning out to block the sun; and we are good inside at 78 - 80 degrees
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Old 10-19-2022, 10:47 AM   #12
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The heat issue for me is the engine and transmission warming up the rear bathroom

I let the front and middle ac units keep those areas at 78 or so and let the rear warm up until we stop

Using the rear ac then to cool that area

Between dash air and the above no problems in AZ or anywhere

The 15k AirXcell units are working as designed
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Old 10-19-2022, 02:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fwguay View Post
Driving on a hot day (108 F) and both Roof Top ACs working (generator on) and Coach engine AC blasting and the coach could not get cooler than 92 degrees with all slides in (while driving).

Took it to Giant RV...no fault found...


We were dying in there at 92 degrees and all the other coaches we had ...would have been about 82 degrees bearable.

Has anyone had similar issues with Aria.
2021 Aria 3401- no problem in heat while moving. Never had to turn both units on. Our challenge was while at sites. We insulated the cabinets especially from as they back up to windshield. Then make sure to start cooling before it get hot.
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Old 10-22-2022, 06:47 PM   #14
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How hot was it outside? Most AC can only cool 10 ~ 15 degrees from outside. Removing the humidity is what the AC does best. If its 110 outside, don't expect 65 inside.
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Old 10-23-2022, 06:10 AM   #15
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Check for heat spurces using laser thermometer

I used a laser thermometer to check all the walls, windows, roof sections, floor, door and as someone mwntioned the inside of different cabinets to see where is the heat coming from so you can address the problem area instead of guessing.
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Old 10-24-2022, 04:39 PM   #16
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I know this is a huge and perpetual issue for everyone. One thing I found (and most vanlifers seem to know this) is that almost all enclosed vehicles -- including RVs -- have terrible airflow. Hot air gathers and accumulates near the ceiling. I removed both of my rooftop AC units and replaced them with vents and bi-directional fans. My 32ft coach now has four such roof vents and zero A/C units. With the addition of individual window awnings over each of the side windows (when parked) I have no problems with overheating.

Most homemade converted vans do not have A/C units, but they do often have roof vents and large doors that can be opened. That seems to work well.

What RVers tend to do is close everything up as tight as possible then try to cool down their homemade oven.
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Old 10-24-2022, 05:42 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JeffThor325 View Post
I know this is a huge and perpetual issue for everyone. One thing I found (and most vanlifers seem to know this) is that almost all enclosed vehicles -- including RVs -- have terrible airflow. Hot air gathers and accumulates near the ceiling. I removed both of my rooftop AC units and replaced them with vents and bi-directional fans. My 32ft coach now has four such roof vents and zero A/C units. With the addition of individual window awnings over each of the side windows (when parked) I have no problems with overheating.

Most homemade converted vans do not have A/C units, but they do often have roof vents and large doors that can be opened. That seems to work well.

What RVers tend to do is close everything up as tight as possible then try to cool down their homemade oven.
With no ACs you best not go anywhere south or west of NY til you put a couple AC units back in service.
Can't even imagine going to Florida, Texas or Arizona any month other than Jan/Feb with no ACs, fans ain't gonna do it!
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Old 10-24-2022, 06:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffThor325 View Post
I know this is a huge and perpetual issue for everyone. One thing I found (and most vanlifers seem to know this) is that almost all enclosed vehicles -- including RVs -- have terrible airflow. Hot air gathers and accumulates near the ceiling. I removed both of my rooftop AC units and replaced them with vents and bi-directional fans. My 32ft coach now has four such roof vents and zero A/C units. With the addition of individual window awnings over each of the side windows (when parked) I have no problems with overheating.

Most homemade converted vans do not have A/C units, but they do often have roof vents and large doors that can be opened. That seems to work well.

What RVers tend to do is close everything up as tight as possible then try to cool down their homemade oven.
You must not travel in the south, southeast, or southwest in the summer.
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Old 10-24-2022, 07:32 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by k.maslowski@comcast.net View Post
How hot was it outside? Most AC can only cool 10 ~ 15 degrees from outside. Removing the humidity is what the AC does best. If its 110 outside, don't expect 65 inside.
This is true.
Getting the rig from 108 to 92 is about what normally can be expected.
Anybody want a cold beer??
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Old 10-25-2022, 12:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
With no ACs you best not go anywhere south or west of NY til you put a couple AC units back in service.
Can't even imagine going to Florida, Texas or Arizona any month other than Jan/Feb with no ACs, fans ain't gonna do it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
You must not travel in the south, southeast, or southwest in the summer.
I grew up in New Mexico and have been to 47 US states. While ambient temperature is a real thing, airflow is the true problem when it comes to the temperature inside of vehicles. All vehicles, not just RVs.
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