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Old 01-18-2014, 01:09 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2011 Four Winds 28Z
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THOR #531
Class C Leveling Blocks

We're getting our wish list ready for the things I need to purchase for the upcoming season.

We have a 30ft Four Winds Class C, and unfortunately do not have a hydraulic leveling system.

I did make some 2x12 ramps for when I store my motorhome in the side yard, but they are rather heavy for taking on trips.

I have looked at some leveling blocks - the plastic lego-style, and many say that they are not appropriate for motorhomes, due to their heavier weight.

So, do any of you use any kind of leveling blocks, and if so, do you just bite the bullet and carry along heavy 2x12s, or is there a sufficient product for heavy motorhomes?
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:04 AM   #2
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Best levelers you can get!

Please check out this link. I made my own levelers. 8" x 12" for the front, and 16" x 18" for the dualies. I'd love to hear back on what you think. Total cost was $52.00. Takes about 3 hours to make them, but you'll never need to replace them. Camping World wants $52 for just two that are about 12" x 12"!!! If you want to make some let me know; we can talk on the phone and I'll tell you some sensible tips I learned on the internet. My name is Carl. 912-704-1544. Call anytime. I live in the eastern time zone. RV Leveling Blocks Built for Indestructibility
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:06 AM   #3
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THOR #597
levelers

Sorry FW28Z. I forgot to give you the link.
RV Leveling Blocks Built for Indestructibility

Carl
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:48 AM   #4
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nice blocks, how heavy is the set?
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:18 PM   #5
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THOR #698
wood levelers

Take a look at this. You adjust the height with layers of 2x12 wood. Multi-Use Leveling Blocks
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:52 PM   #6
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Nice idea. Thanks for the source.

I simply went with a set of 2x10s for a ramp, but I like the ability to change the sizes. Perhaps I will have to build a set.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:51 AM   #7
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I have 3 sets of these, that I have used for 7 years. They have worked great, they weigh very little and don't take up much space.:
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:51 AM   #8
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I also use the Lynx Levelers. I put them under my jacks. Even with the jack pressure on them, no problems. Like they are plastic too for insulation quality per electrical grounding.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:16 PM   #9
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I used the Lynx Levelers under the 5th wheel wheels and rear stabilizers and they worked well. We now have a small Class A. I didn't want to put the weight of the coach on the leveling legs on the Lynx Levelers. I purchased a set of these from campers friend.

Campers Friend - Quality products for the Camping, Motor Home, and RV enthusiast

There is also a youtube video
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:23 PM   #10
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What do you mean by "Like they are plastic too for insulation quality per electrical grounding."
Just trying to understand......

So far I've used nothing but wish that I'd had a few inches of something on 2 trips.
I'm still thinking I'll add powered jacks some day maybe
Don't really want to be carrying around boards or legos. the stable may is a great idea, but seems like it would be heavy.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
What do you mean by "Like they are plastic too for insulation quality per electrical grounding."
I'm kind of scratching my head on that one too.

We're finally looking at putting in hydraulic jacks. We are currently still using the 2x10s, but it is getting old quick.

I live about 50 miles from Quadra Mfg (Bigfoot leveling jacks) and they will install them at the factory. They make a set specifically for E450 Class Cs.

I do like the Bigfoot setup as each cylinder has it's own pump, so there are not any hydraulic lines to run (other than short runs from each pump to it's cylinder). But the other potential thing I see is there are no "return springs" on the cylinders to retract them if you lose power.

Not sure at this point how much of an advantage those return springs are anyway from a practical matter. But there is supposedly some method of returning the cylinders to the up position - I just don't yet know what that entails.

The mounting plates for the cylinders have to be welded to the chassis, and while I just bought a welder a month ago (for another project), I am not yet having enough confidence in welding the plates on the chassis myself. I certainly don't want one of the welds to break, and a cylinder find it's way poking through the RV's floor. Besides, I don't have any kind of lift which would be nice for such a project.

Probably will visit the factory in a few weeks (after we're back from our next RV trip), and see what they look like. I a not yet committed to this brand, but they are a good price. We're also going to Hershey in Sep. for the specific reason to look at all of the accessory vendors, so we will at least wait until then to make any kind of decision.

They make two systems that would work on my coach. The manual system (has one pump and hydraulic lines to each cylinder), which requires lowering one cylinder at a time costs around $2,600, while the auto system that auto-levels and each cylinder has it's own pump is $3,400. Installation is a flat rate $600 at the factory. So, $3,200~$4,000 or so, plus tax.

Probably won't put them on until next spring, because I also want to get my car outfitted to be a toad, and well - priorities are priorities. We just sold our current car as it could not be towed 4 down, and bought one that could, so in our first year of ownership, we have had to do a lot of things to support our RV lifestyle.

This RV thing seems to be getting serious.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:31 AM   #12
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I was under the impression that these things bolt on. I remember reading on one of the forums about somebody needing to adjust them up due to insufficient ground clearance in the retracted position ( from the factory!).

I haven't researched as much as you have from the looks of it. I do have an email out yo HWH asking how much weight it'll add and which system I need.

Anyway, have you looked at HWH? I look forward to reading your impressions after the factory visit. Pls post it!
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:40 AM   #13
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The cylinders themselves have a row of bolt-holes that can be used to adjust them up or down. They bolt into brackets that are welded onto the frame.

The vertical U channel that the cylinder is bolted to in the photo is what gets welded to the frame, and is part of the installation kit.



I have not looked into the HWH systems a whole lot. I understand they have some cylinders that are bolt-on. I plan on looking at all of the ones that show up at Hershey in Sep.

One thing I discovered about Quadra is that, they also have a chassis lengthening shop. Probably not as big as MorRyde, but I am hoping that gives them experience on where to locate the cylinders to keep the frame from twisting, etc. I might be foolish to assume that, but they are about 20 miles from the Four Winds plant. Not sure if they are OEM for Four Winds or not though.

They also build their own hydraulic cylinders in-house so hopefully they will have different lengths in stock that they can put on the coach to ensure the proper distance to the ground when traveling. I guess that is one of the advantages of having the factory install them.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:11 AM   #14
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After snooping around on the Bigfoot website, they claim that they are OEM for Forest River, Thor, and Jayco.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:37 AM   #15
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Yes, I'm pretty sure I saw that they are the ones that come on thor if ordered as an option from the factory.
If I lived close, i would no doubt consider having them install. Have much more confidence in that scenario tan say getting Camping Worldto install them!

I was figuring that if I ever get it done, that I would do it myself..... but I guess not, now that i know welding is required. I see a hole bunch of holes in my frame, Just assumed that this is likely where they would attach..... but then I haven't really looked all that close yet.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:48 PM   #16
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It may be that the HWH systems are bolt on, as some of their literature suggests it.

But I also confirmed that they also will install at the factory. I live about 300 miles from their factory (in Iowa) so it would be doable... a day out, day for install, and a day back.

Unfortunately HWH won't be at Hershey which is kind of surprising. But perhaps a dealer will show up showing off HWH products.
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:58 PM   #17
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So far I have not heard back from HWH. At this point I'm not holding my breath.
Thye look pretty old school with their web site and such so I'm thinking they aren't really responsive to digital communication..... + maybe they expect folks to go through dealers rather than direct.
I do in theory like the idea of the kickback actuators in terms of ground clearance.... and the ability to drive off in case of failure or emergency.....but on the other hand I wonder about it adding unnecessary complexity.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:30 PM   #18
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I sent and received a couple emails from HWH this morning and even got a quote as to price and installation at their facility. I sent the email through their contact form on their website. "tsimester@hwhcorp.com" is who answered my emails.
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:56 PM   #19
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Jacks are metal and are in direct contact with the ground. Your tires are rubber but the jacks are not. I kept triggering a GFI on my house line when plugged in at home with the jacks directly in contact with my blacktop driveway when wet. With the plastic blocks under them, no problem. Read Many different posts about insulating between the ground and your metal jacks and now I always use plastic or something between them. That's just my opinion.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:37 PM   #20
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Your GFI tripping tells me there is a voltage difference between the chassis of your RV and ground of your house. It could be from static electricity I suppose, which could account for the GFI tripping once. But if it continues to trip with the chassis connected to ground, something is wrong in my opinion.

The wet water could also be the culprit. Water itself is an insulator, but only for distilled water. Lake water, or even rain water when in contact with the ground will have minerals and such suspended in it that causes water to become a conductor or semi-conductor.

There are a myriad of reasons why this could be happening,and the GFI tripping at least to me presents a red flag to warrant checking into.

Can you measure any voltage from your isolated chassis (without any metal contacting ground) and ground itself? That would tell a lot.
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