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Old 05-31-2020, 09:49 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.2
State: New York
Posts: 26
THOR #11074
Electrical Component ID

Greetings,

My rig is a 2016 ACE 30.2.

Can anyone identify the electrical components in the attached photo. I'm more interested in round solenoid looking unit as it is warm to the touch, with nothing on (I think).

They are located in the compartment aft of the entry door, behind the house batteries. The cables attached to the round unit run to the positive side of the batteries and then a long run along the chassis to the engine compartment firewall.

My concern led me to disconnect the cable coming from the positive terminal of the house batteries and when I did you could hear a click, like it was de-energizing.

Appreciate any help that can be offered.

Thanks,

Jerry
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Old 06-01-2020, 01:57 PM   #2
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THOR #15553
Quote:
Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
Greetings,

My rig is a 2016 ACE 30.2.

Can anyone identify the electrical components in the attached photo. I'm more interested in round solenoid looking unit as it is warm to the touch, with nothing on (I think).

They are located in the compartment aft of the entry door, behind the house batteries. The cables attached to the round unit run to the positive side of the batteries and then a long run along the chassis to the engine compartment firewall.

My concern led me to disconnect the cable coming from the positive terminal of the house batteries and when I did you could hear a click, like it was de-energizing.

Appreciate any help that can be offered.

Thanks,

Jerry
Can't tell from that picture. How many wires are hooked to it. Looks like a battery disconnect relay. the clicking noise is a latching relay.
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Old 06-01-2020, 02:23 PM   #3
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THOR #7035
That is your Trombetta solenoid - it separates the house and chassis batteries except when charging - then it allows the alternator to also charge the house batteries and the converter to also charge the chassis battery. It is controlled by a BIRD.
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Old 06-01-2020, 02:28 PM   #4
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And it looks like that box next to it is your BIRD which controls the opening and closing of the Trombetta. My 2016 Axis had the same setup.
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Old 06-01-2020, 02:45 PM   #5
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Thanks Guys! I wonder. I removed the chassis battery because it went dead over the winter and possibly froze (won't take a charge). Could the absence of the chassis battery cause the solenoid to engage and remain so, causing it to heat up? I'll be installing a new chassis battery sometime this week and will check the solenoid to see if the issue goes away.

Best regards,

Jerry
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Old 06-01-2020, 03:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
thanks guys! I wonder. I removed the chassis battery because it went dead over the winter and possibly froze (won't take a charge). Could the absence of the chassis battery cause the solenoid to engage and remain so, causing it to heat up? I'll be installing a new chassis battery sometime this week and will check the solenoid to see if the issue goes away.

Best regards,

jerry
yep.
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:08 AM   #7
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So, I replaced the chassis battery and ditched the two 12v deep cycle group 27 house batteries for four 6 volts in series/parallel. Unfortunately, the trombetta solenoid still engages and gets hot. I guess I'll be contacting Thor for advice, but if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:24 AM   #8
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Only 2 things 'should' engage that solenoid. Engaging the aux/emer start button in the cab, or the BCC sensing a charging condition.
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:38 AM   #9
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And when it engages it does get hot.
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Old 06-13-2020, 12:53 AM   #10
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Could be the Trombetta is “hanging up” and not releasing as it should. You can check on that by checking the voltage with everything turned off and see if the voltage in the two battery systems remain the same over time. If they do, The Trombetta is not releasing as it should. You might tap it gently and see if it releases. If it were me, I would just replace it. They are probably cheaper than having someone trouble shoot it and if it is good, you would have a spare and be able to eliminate that as a problem.
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:05 PM   #11
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This morning I went out with my multimeter and checked the solenoid. Last night I disconnected the positive lead from the house batteries and after awhile the solenoid cooled down. So, with that lead still disconnected the other lead from the chassis battery was hot as you would expect, the lug for the house battery lead was cold, as were the small trigger and ground terminals. If the solenoid were hanging up, I expect that the house battery lead would also have been hot.

Next, I attached the house battery lead, the solenoid activated and the trigger lead became hot. I'm thinking that the the current is passing between the house battery terminal and the trigger circuit internally.

I ordered a new one and will repost once installed.

Jerry
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
This morning I went out with my multimeter and checked the solenoid. Last night I disconnected the positive lead from the house batteries and after awhile the solenoid cooled down. So, with that lead still disconnected the other lead from the chassis battery was hot as you would expect, the lug for the house battery lead was cold, as were the small trigger and ground terminals. If the solenoid were hanging up, I expect that the house battery lead would also have been hot.

Next, I attached the house battery lead, the solenoid activated and the trigger lead became hot. I'm thinking that the the current is passing between the house battery terminal and the trigger circuit internally.

I ordered a new one and will repost once installed.

Jerry
Were you plugged into SP during this test?
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Old 06-13-2020, 06:14 PM   #13
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Yes, I was on shore power at the time.
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Old 06-13-2020, 06:22 PM   #14
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Yes, I was on shore power at the time.
Then that is why the solenoid activated as soon as you attached the house battery lead. The charging from the converter is passed through to the chassis battery. Operating as designed. Unplug SP and the solenoid will deenergize.

Start the RV engine and the solenoid will energize after a short delay to charge the house batteries from the alternator.
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Old 06-15-2020, 05:24 PM   #15
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I followed Ted's suggestion and unplugged from shore power and still having same issue. I pulled the Emergency Start switch from the dash and disconnected the yellow and yellow/blacker tracer wires and found both hot. The switch ohm'd out good. I did notice that if I make and break contact of the house battery lead several times the voltage in the trigger wire would drop of to zero. acting as if a relay might be sticking. The trigger wire at the solenoid is yellow/black tracer and there is continuity between it and the like wire at the switch, But, I'm thinking there must be a connection point that leads to the converter. Is there another relay at the converter? How does the BIRD play into this? Any ideas would be appreciated before I go through the hassle of contacting Thor.
Thanks,


Jerry
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Old 06-15-2020, 07:33 PM   #16
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The Bird senses a 'charge' condition and turns on the circuit to energize the solenoid. If one set of batteries has a significantly higher voltage than the other, that might cause the condition. You have 12 volts on both sides of the aux switch because the Bird is energizing the solenoid. The converter can only charge when you are hooked to shore power or generator. I had the same problem, but mine was caused by me installing lithium batteries, which have significantly higher resting voltage than the chassis battery, which caused the solenoid to energize constantly.
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Old 06-15-2020, 07:58 PM   #17
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Thank for the information Harry. I installed all new batteries, house and chassis and they've been in the RV for a week now. I think they should all be fully charged by now. My chassis battery died over the winter and must have froze, because it wouldn't take a charge. I modified the house set up by replacing the 2 stock 12volt deep cycles with four 6volt deep cycles wired in series/parallel. That was on my todo list from last year. I just realized that the 6volts are flooded lead acid and the chassis is a glass mat battery. Do you suppose that might create an issue?

For now, I'll do some research and troubleshoot the BIRD. Wish me luck....I'm going in!

Thanks Again,
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Old 06-15-2020, 10:46 PM   #18
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So, I think I may have a Baaad BIRD! Checked voltage readings at house and chassis batteries, with ignition off and shore power disconnected, with 12.90 and 12.75 volts respectively. Above 13.1 volts seems to be the threshold for energizing the Trombetta relay. with those readings I had 12 volts at the BIRD's trigger wire to the Trombetta. I cut the wire to ensure it wasn't a back-feed from somewhere else and it was still hot.

Fingers Crossed!
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Old 06-15-2020, 11:45 PM   #19
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Here's a couple of links that may be helpful in troubleshooting and repair.

https://www.intellitec.com/wp-conten...-00362-100.pdf

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...ion-21620.html
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:23 AM   #20
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Thanks Reminckv!
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