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Old 12-13-2020, 03:53 AM   #21
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Alberta
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THOR #2791
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Originally Posted by petef View Post
.......
I do not know about the above recommendations, what caster does is keep you from pulling to left or right. In pre-power steering days it was set more positive.
.......
In pre-power steering days it was set LESS positive.

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Old 12-13-2020, 04:02 AM   #22
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 27K
State: Nevada
Posts: 388
THOR #970
On my '49 Hudson it was 1/2 degree to 1 1/2 degrees.
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Old 12-13-2020, 11:45 PM   #23
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 27K
State: Ohio
Posts: 262
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Originally Posted by petef View Post
I drove my rig, similar to yours, from dealer in TX to AL, back to TX and then onward home to NV. White knuckle driving, we got caught in a bad storm a couple times. I have a background in wheels, tires, alignment, I owned a Tire and Front end shop that did everything from cars to 18 wheeler alignments, one of the first on the east coast to have a computer off the truck tire balancing machine for these types of wheel/tire combos.

Alignment a MUST! mine was off 1/4 in toe out. In 2000 miles ate the inner edge of the front tire.. I knew it was bad, shame on dealers for sending out units without this being done. I got Thor to pay for it. It is was not steerable with one hand.. Camber was fine, do not remember caster, as normally if the right side is 1/2 degree or more positive then the left you leave be. It can be adjusted by inserting shims on top the spring assembly to tile the axle. I do not know about the above recommendations, what caster does is keep you from pulling to left or right. In pre-power steering days it was set more positive.

CHF. I did it myself in a parking lot. Yes, it changed the roll, however the side effect was a stiff ride, so every little bump your front tires crossed came to your seat and steering wheel. And dash. Any imperfection in surface was felt. Even the stuff they fill in the cracks with you felt.. I undid my CHF, to much damage to the dash and my back.

Rear Trac bar -- had installed when install price went on sale. I helped. I had them do the rear CHF, and still have that. When hit with heavy crosswinds I drive fine. trucks flying by no problems.

Sumo Springs. I bought a set, and ended up the wrong size somehow, but I was able to make them work, basically a cushion to absorb big change in front end, ie, a big pothole. They are not active when driving normal so will mot help the handing.

Hours behind the wheels.. works very well.


The above combinations have worked very well for me.



When I did the CHF on our 27K I used the plates in the front and did see an improvement in handling but didn't notice that the ride was any worse or better, was still terrible! The best improvement in overall handling came when I installed the Roadmaster Add-on rear sway bar. Front Sumos', steering stabilizer, rear track bar, CHF, made incremental improvements but the add-on sway bar was the best improvement.



I'll be replacing tires next year and I am looking for tires I can run with a little less pressure. The GoodYear's on it shouldn't be run at less than 80 psi according to their chart and will carry 3640# as a single and 3415 each as doubles . Our mh scaled at 5700 on the front and 10560 on the rear FULLY LOADED, food, fuel, water, propane, cloths and us. I'd love to feel what the ride would be at 70 or 75#.
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Old 12-15-2020, 07:56 PM   #24
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Model: Windsport 29m
State: North Carolina
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Originally Posted by wdwilcox View Post
Looking for a Central Florida business that can provide good recommendations and perform such upgrades to my ACE 29.4. We live in The Villages, Fl. Greatly appreciate any input.
My upgrades on my 2018 Windsport 29m were:

First, Sumo springs in the front

Second, RoadMaster Anti Sway Bar in the rear---now we have two on the rear axle.

Third, new Bilstein shocks.

May put a front stabilizer on but really don't feel it needs that, so will wait.

My main gripe was the coach moved when wind or trucks pasted us. Cornering was OK but MUCH, MUCH improved with these mods.

You can spend as much on these upgrades as you have spent on the RV if your not wise. I did the mods one at a time, then took several trips to see if it needed the sway bar. It did. Then, after two years felt in needed a softer ride. Shocks plus lowering the tire pressure helped and now I'm done spending hard saved $$$$$$$ Bob Trice
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:25 PM   #25
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Model: ACE 33.1
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We have our 2021 THOR ACE 33.1 for almost a month now. The coach do sway/swerve when those big rigs passes by or with sudden gust of wind. White knuckle at its finest.

Ordered FRONT Sumo helper springs and Road Master steering stabilizer today. I will have them installed when I take the coach in for alignment. I hope those 2 items help. If not, I will install additional upgrades as needed.

I heard the 2021 F53 have bigger front and rear stabilizers from the factory. So I am hoping the front Sumo springs and RM steering stabilizer will help.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:02 PM   #26
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Model: Windsport 29m
State: North Carolina
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Originally Posted by ador View Post
We have our 2021 THOR ACE 33.1 for almost a month now. The coach do sway/swerve when those big rigs passes by or with sudden gust of wind. White knuckle at its finest.

Ordered FRONT Sumo helper springs and Road Master steering stabilizer today. I will have them installed when I take the coach in for alignment. I hope those 2 items help. If not, I will install additional upgrades as needed.

I heard the 2021 F53 have bigger front and rear stabilizers from the factory. So I am hoping the front Sumo springs and RM steering stabilizer will help.
There is a significant difference in the diameter and in the material. The R.M. is chrome moly steel. Since most of the weight of the coach is on the rear axle, why there's 4 tires there, it will be a very noticeable different. It was for me. You will ultimately decide if you want more stability. Good luck with your mods!!
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Old 03-09-2021, 08:40 AM   #27
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State: Alaska
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petef View Post
I drove my rig, similar to yours, from dealer in TX to AL, back to TX and then onward home to NV. White knuckle driving, we got caught in a bad storm a couple times. I have a background in wheels, tires, alignment, I owned a Tire and Front end shop that did everything from cars to 18 wheeler alignments, one of the first on the east coast to have a computer off the truck tire balancing machine for these types of wheel/tire combos.

Alignment a MUST! mine was off 1/4 in toe out. In 2000 miles ate the inner edge of the front tire.. I knew it was bad, shame on dealers for sending out units without this being done. I got Thor to pay for it. It is was not steerable with one hand.. Camber was fine, do not remember caster, as normally if the right side is 1/2 degree or more positive then the left you leave be. It can be adjusted by inserting shims on top the spring assembly to tile the axle. I do not know about the above recommendations, what caster does is keep you from pulling to left or right. In pre-power steering days it was set more positive.

CHF. I did it myself in a parking lot. Yes, it changed the roll, however the side effect was a stiff ride, so every little bump your front tires crossed came to your seat and steering wheel. And dash. Any imperfection in surface was felt. Even the stuff they fill in the cracks with you felt.. I undid my CHF, to much damage to the dash and my back.

Rear Trac bar -- had installed when install price went on sale. I helped. I had them do the rear CHF, and still have that. When hit with heavy crosswinds I drive fine. trucks flying by no problems.

Sumo Springs. I bought a set, and ended up the wrong size somehow, but I was able to make them work, basically a cushion to absorb big change in front end, ie, a big pothole. They are not active when driving normal so will mot help the handing.

Hours behind the wheels.. works very well.


The above combinations have worked very well for me.


We are experiencing this problem currently, and the alignment place said we have to put a shim in for the alignment and to do that they have to replace a bolt - saying it’s a common problem in the e53 engines from Ford.

Has anyone had this experience before?
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Old 03-09-2021, 12:01 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Romeoalphabravo View Post
We are experiencing this problem currently, and the alignment place said we have to put a shim in for the alignment and to do that they have to replace a bolt - saying it’s a common problem in the e53 engines from Ford.

Has anyone had this experience before?
Interested to know what bolt needs replaced.
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Old 03-09-2021, 03:13 PM   #29
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,116
THOR #7035
Quote:
Originally Posted by petef View Post
CHF. I did it myself in a parking lot. Yes, it changed the roll, however the side effect was a stiff ride, so every little bump your front tires crossed came to your seat and steering wheel. And dash. Any imperfection in surface was felt. Even the stuff they fill in the cracks with you felt.. I undid my CHF, to much damage to the dash and my back.
It doesn't make sense that the CHF changes the stiffness of the ride. All that roll bar does is transmit a change in ride height from one front wheel to the other front wheel. It does not support the chassis like springs do. So unless your bar was frozen in the brackets it should not affect ride stiffness.

Also, to do the front CHF properly on the 16K chassis (27K/27.1) you need longer end links or a plate. Moving the stock end links to the inside hole puts the geometry completely out of whack for that chassis.
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Old 03-09-2021, 05:25 PM   #30
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Model: Hurricane 27K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeoalphabravo View Post
We are experiencing this problem currently, and the alignment place said we have to put a shim in for the alignment and to do that they have to replace a bolt - saying it’s a common problem in the e53 engines from Ford.

Has anyone had this experience before?

If a shim is needed to correct castor setting, it is slid under the spring where is meets the axle, so not sure why a bolt would have to be replaced as they are generally less then 1/4 in thick at the end.. and the engine has nothing to do with it

Doing the CHF stiffens the sway, therefore stiffens the ride. It might not be as noticed on longer rigs, it sure was on mine.
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