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Old 11-09-2017, 05:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I hope that the second A/C unit does the job...
Do you think that adding a couple of fans might help?
Planning to look for a couple of small fans I can mount on the A pillars. Had those on our DP, miss them on the Gemini.
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Kev View Post
Buy a laser temperature gun point it at the incoming air and it will tell you the temperature. This will tell you if the a/c is working properly. I believe they sell them at Harbor Freight and are very reasonable now. I use mine all the time.
Also you can do the mod in the Jerry's modification section and add a vent in your cover. I did it to mine and made a big difference. Also do what you can to block the hot sun from entering your coach.
Except the laser temp gun doesn't tell you the temp of the air; it tells you the temp of the solid device you are pointing it at.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:13 AM   #23
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Adding a second a/c unit

We have been thinking about adding a second a/c unit to the bedroom of our 2017 ACE 30.3. We would just drop it into the existing roof vent opening and have our local RV shop wire it and upgrade the electric panel to 50 amp. Iíve pric ed the second unit and will get estimates this winter for the installation. We live in South Florida and the one 15000 btu unit just doesnít cut it during the hot summers here!
Iím guessing that total cost will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500.00?


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Old 11-10-2017, 02:25 AM   #24
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Our second AC went in the front, where the roof vent was, really looks like it belongs there. As far as power for it, it is wired to a second 30 amp connector right next to the existing one. Will run a Y connector from the two 30 amp connectors, to a single 50 amp cable and just plug into 50 amp service. Haven't used it yet, picking it up tomorrow, after the second AC add, and HWH leveling system and a bunch of final warrantee work. The AC had to go where the vent was, as that's where there was enough support in the roof structure. I would have preferred putting it further forward and leaving that vent where it was, but the installing Tech vetoed that, said we would have endless roof problems if we did it that way.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:31 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
You'll get better results if you get an outside cover for the window--block the heat before it gets in the coach instead of letting it in and then reflecting it back out.
Where can I buy an outside cover for my windshield?
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:29 PM   #26
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Where can I buy an outside cover for my windshield?
There are a few options depending on if you have a Class C or Class A. For Class A's there is:Both are a cover that blocks 90+% of the light from the "brighter side" of the window (e.g. during the day you can't see in, during the night you can't see out but have to remember that outside people can see in; we just close the curtains at night).

For Class C's you'd get something like This Adco windshield cover. Note, however, that the Class C covers are completely opaque.
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Old 01-05-2018, 07:09 AM   #27
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Something you may consider trying

On my coach Thor incorrectly installed the air conditioners. They pushed up the wiring double gang box up in front of the intake coils blocking 50%-70% of the airflow through the coils. This caused the air conditioner to work very poorly. The coils would freeze up and then it would get even worse. I removed the box and wiring and installed it and routed the wiring per the manufacturer specifications. Next I carefully insulated the plenum which was poorly insulated. The air conditioners work well now. If you are interested I can provide pictures.
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:17 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Msturtz View Post
On my coach Thor incorrectly installed the air conditioners. They pushed up the wiring double gang box up in front of the intake coils blocking 50%-70% of the airflow through the coils. This caused the air conditioner to work very poorly. The coils would freeze up and then it would get even worse. I removed the box and wiring and installed it and routed the wiring per the manufacturer specifications. Next I carefully insulated the plenum which was poorly insulated. The air conditioners work well now. If you are interested I can provide pictures.
I would like to see how you did it please?

Thank you
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:35 PM   #29
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AC Repairs

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Originally Posted by brucev View Post
I would like to see how you did it please?

Thank you
I have attached some pictures taken prior to the work and after the work.
Thanks,
Michael
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:56 PM   #30
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Thank you, I'll have to compare it with mine this weekend!
Thanks again, Safe Travels
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:24 AM   #31
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2016 axis 25-2 single air and it cools very good. Magne shade makes big difference .tinted drivers and passenger side glass helps also.
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:04 PM   #32
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So after following this thread for awhile, I decided to take a look at our A/C setup. Ours has always had bad flow on the left (when sitting in the drivers seat) and it's going to get warm here in Florida in a month or two.

Pulled off the filter and found the junction box stuffed up in the air return just like Michaels. Moved it down to the big tab like he did and it really opened that up. However the air flow on the left side did not improve.

So I pulled the lower cover and looked inside the ducts. I don't know much about A/C ducting but it sure seems to me this arrangement is not efficient or balanced.

Found that the air handler (blower segment) forces air from a 6 inch plenum into 2 1.5" slots that feed the ducting.

On my left side, there is some kind of fixture or tape excess or something that is not present on the right side. Tried to pull it out or push it back but no joy.

Not under warranty anymore, so I'll just try to balance it best I can. Did buy an external sunscreen. That should help.
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:50 PM   #33
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Where is this located on your coach?
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:17 PM   #34
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The pictures got hosed on upload. Rotate clockwise. This is the view of our rear ceiling a/c unit with the inside cover removed looking in to the blower area.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:50 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Laco View Post
As for the electrical service requirement, the Gemini has only a 30 amp service. The second air conditioner will be separately powered via a second 30 amp plug which will mount next to the existing 30 amp plug. I can power it one of two ways, either a separate second 30 amp cable to an adapter so it can be plugged into the 50 amp outlet on the pedestal, or I can run a Y connector from the two outlets, plug a single 50 amp cable into it, and into the 50 amp service on the pedestal. Since the new AC will draw no more than 15 amps, total draw will never exceed 45 amps from the 50 amp pedestal. As far as on the road, if necessary, I can still run the rear AC off the generator, and the dash air does a decent job of keeping the front cool. Really looking forward to being able to stay comfortable inside in warm weather, and I know our dog will appreciate it too.
I plan on adding a second ac also. Was talking with my electrician buddy about using a 30 amp cord and doing what you plan to do. He was against that Idea. He suggested using a 20 amp plug, cord, and plugging into 20 amp at the pedestal. He was worried if something went wrong with the ac unit the 30 amp breaker might not trip and a possible fire could happen in the motorhome. SO i'll be doing 20 amp

Now you can use 30 amp if you install a 20 amp breaker in between the power pedestal and ac unit. I've seen a few people do this and they install the 20 amp breaker in a cargo bay close the the cord connection point.


Jerry
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CC38EL View Post
So after following this thread for awhile, I decided to take a look at our A/C setup. Ours has always had bad flow on the left (when sitting in the drivers seat) and it's going to get warm here in Florida in a month or two.

Pulled off the filter and found the junction box stuffed up in the air return just like Michaels. Moved it down to the big tab like he did and it really opened that up. However the air flow on the left side did not improve.

So I pulled the lower cover and looked inside the ducts. I don't know much about A/C ducting but it sure seems to me this arrangement is not efficient or balanced.

Found that the air handler (blower segment) forces air from a 6 inch plenum into 2 1.5" slots that feed the ducting.

On my left side, there is some kind of fixture or tape excess or something that is not present on the right side. Tried to pull it out or push it back but no joy.

Not under warranty anymore, so I'll just try to balance it best I can. Did buy an external sunscreen. That should help.
That seems very strange. I would recommend that you use metal tape to smooth out the discharge side. It is exactly what I did. My unit is not nearly as inefficiently routed as that however.
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
I plan on adding a second ac also. Was talking with my electrician buddy about using a 30 amp cord and doing what you plan to do. He was against that Idea. He suggested using a 20 amp plug, cord, and plugging into 20 amp at the pedestal. He was worried if something went wrong with the ac unit the 30 amp breaker might not trip and a possible fire could happen in the motorhome. SO i'll be doing 20 amp

Now you can use 30 amp if you install a 20 amp breaker in between the power pedestal and ac unit. I've seen a few people do this and they install the 20 amp breaker in a cargo bay close the the cord connection point.


Jerry
On mine the second AC is a completely separate circuit from the rest of the coach, and has its own breaker in case of an electrical problem. Also I am using only 50 amp cables, going through the Y connector to the two 30 amp connectors on the side of the coach. Not every pedestal has a 20 amp plug, any 50 amp pedestal has both a 50 and 30 amp.
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Old 01-15-2018, 06:14 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Laco View Post
On mine the second AC is a completely separate circuit from the rest of the coach, and has its own breaker in case of an electrical problem. Also I am using only 50 amp cables, going through the Y connector to the two 30 amp connectors on the side of the coach. Not every pedestal has a 20 amp plug, any 50 amp pedestal has both a 50 and 30 amp.
SO you added a separate breaker box??? If you have any pics I would like to see them to help me with what I'd like to do.

Jerry
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:59 AM   #39
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Model: Vegas 25.2
State: Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Here is a smile mod you can do to increase the output of cool ail from your AC. Buy a rotating vent from Amazon, remove inside cover, cut hole, and install the vent. Installing the vent will make a significant increase to the air output, it install directly below the AC exhaust, can be rotated to direct cooling, and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Several of us on the forum have done this mod with great results.

I have dual ACs and like being able to direct the flow. The factory ceiling vents are restrictive and useless in my opinion and even the quick cool vents on the inside cover still restrict some air flow.

Attachment 7691

SuperD, I just wanted to thank you for posting this. Only took me nine months to get around to installing it (actually wanted to wait until the warranty ended)

I cant believe how much air is flowing off our 15K btu unit now. It is like night and day!
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:19 PM   #40
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Our last 27' TT was supposed to come with a 13,500btu air conditioner, but we had it upgraded to a 15,000btu unit. We were camping in northwest WA state and it was 107 degrees. Our trailer was cooling to around 68 degrees. The other MHs with dual 13,500 units were struggling to keep 80 degrees. It's all about the amount of heat rejection the unit is capable of. If you are thinking of installing a 2nd unit, consider installing a 15,000btu unit.
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