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Old 02-09-2016, 01:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
In a case like this, is it viable to try parking in opposite direction to see if it tries to lift rear wheels off ground too? Is that even safe to have heavier end come off ground momentarily? I realize reversing parking direction may not be possible or desirable.
Do this at your own risk! Lifting the rear wheels off the ground disables any function of the parking brake. You had better have some good caulk blocks and a good insurance policy with low deductible.
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Old 02-09-2016, 04:19 PM   #22
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I haven't tried turning it around but its possible. And yes. insects can be a problem. More in some places. Had an infestation of very small ants once in Mexico. Haven't had roaches. Ants are the most common as far as my experience. If it is a problem, I spray the bottoms of the tires and leveling jacks with insecticide. I've even sprinkled Sevin powder around them. It works very well, but it's white and shows.
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:22 PM   #23
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I haven't tried turning it around but its possible. ...cut....
Like you I'm curious as to why one motorhome didn't lift off the ground and the other did; assuming it's not due to the leveling system not working correctly on auto. Hopefully manual leveling as suggested by others will take care of it.


I was thinking of differences between motorhomes that may also contribute to differences in leveling beyond the leveling system itself. One would be that if the Thor naturally inclines down slightly at front on level road, then it would need to lift the front more to get it level. Perhaps your previous motorhome naturally inclined the other way slightly, requiring the back to lift higher. An inch or two each over 40 feet could almost go unnoticed unless it's measured.

Another possible difference between motorhomes may be if one has air suspension and or more wheel travel versus one with stiffer leaf springs. Is it possible that motorhomes with air suspension drop down (kneel) before leveling so highest corner starts out as low as possible; thereby reducing chance of any wheel coming off ground?

My experience is fairly limited with RVs (only done manual leveling with hand-operated jacks on trailers or with ramps under MH tires), but can see that a lot of variables can be involved.
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:34 PM   #24
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Do this at your own risk! Lifting the rear wheels off the ground disables any function of the parking brake. You had better have some good caulk blocks and a good insurance policy with low deductible.
So when an owner pushes the auto leveling button not knowing for certain the rears could lift off, is there a safety interlock that will stop the leveling procedure? Or are jack strokes limited at rear so this is unlikely to happen (unless owner added blocks under rear jacks)?


As to my taking risks, it's much less of an issue with smaller motorhomes which I tend to prefer. Small and simple has a few advantages.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:25 PM   #25
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So when an owner pushes the auto leveling button not knowing for certain the rears could lift off, is there a safety interlock that will stop the leveling procedure? Or are jack strokes limited at rear so this is unlikely to happen (unless owner added blocks under rear jacks)?


As to my taking risks, it's much less of an issue with smaller motorhomes which I tend to prefer. Small and simple has a few advantages.
Two know features of the leveling system are when the coach is excessively out of level the auto leveling will not function and the owner must manually level. The other is the stroke of the Jacks is limited and when excessive stroke is required auto leveling will not function.
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:59 PM   #26
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My jacks went berserk on our first trip out. Since then, I've noticed that the Lippert jacks seem to forget what level is. You can reset the system level setting by following the instructions in the Lippert owner's manual, but I don't trust it and manually level using an old-fashioned spirit level resting on the floor. The jacks work well; auto-level not so much.

Lippert has really excellent manuals for the various components that Thor uses. Their site is Welcome to Lippert Customer Service Thor should include all these manuals in the Owner's bag that comes with the coach.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:55 PM   #27
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I suppose the difference in motor homes could well be the reason. My previous motor home was a 40' diesel pusher with air suspension. Also, the leveling system was by Power Gear and was electric, not hydraulic. It was a LOT smoother that the Lippert system. I'll be using manual leveling on the Thor.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:58 PM   #28
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I would never knowingly allow the rear wheels to come off the ground. If they did, I would lower the jacks.
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:38 PM   #29
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My Fleetwood was 40', so a little longer. No mods have been made. Both front wheels of the Challenger are off the ground by 4 to 6 inches. I'll have to learn how to do it manually. Right now, all I know how to do is press the Auto Level button.
Level manually and reset your auto level. Instructions are in Lippert Manual
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:07 PM   #30
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Thanks. I will.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:46 PM   #31
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I tried auto-leveling after the batteries ran down while sitting in the dealer's lot. The system lost the level settings. Have you tried leveling it manually and then saving the level setting in memory?
I have also had the front wheels lifted off the ground when leveling. This was a function of the drop of the suspension - the cure is to carry some 2x10 short planks. I take and level the MH and if the wheels come off the ground, I block them until they have weight on them and then put blocks the same height under the jacks where the wheels had lifted. From what I understand, leaving the MH jacked up with the wheels off the ground is not only a danger, but can also affect the wheel alignement, Don't know for 100% sure - why take the chance.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:00 AM   #32
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Thanks, I appreciate info. Makes sense to me.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:34 AM   #33
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I have lippert on speed dial.
nearly got blown over in N.Y. account of auto level
don't use it anymore
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:21 PM   #34
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So if I use the system in manual, on a standard sloped driveway, should it work OK and be sufficient?
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:47 PM   #35
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Hi,
Originally the Auto leveling lifted my coach to high. But after carrying out the "Level Zero Point Calibration" page 7 in the manual, everything was fine.
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...ideout-web.pdf
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:42 AM   #36
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As I stated earlier, I only use the manual leveling feature because of multiple mishaps with the auto-leveling option. With a simple bubble level it's so easy to level manually. Can anyone explain why so many people seem determined to use an auto-level that's fraught with problems when there is a simple reliable alternative?
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:55 AM   #37
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Oh, Ok.
Explanation is, for me the "Auto Leveling" is the reliable alternative... After I carried out the stated calibration, the operation is smooth and without roughness or jerking. The only time I have noted any type of roughness is when using "Retract All" so I try and stick to manually retracting the jacks. Obviously, on occasion a tire will be floating if the ground beneath is lower (pothole) than the rest of the site but a few pieces plank normally sorts that out. I do carry a carpenter's level and would use "Manual Leveling" if the need arises but it has yet to do so.

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Old 03-04-2016, 05:05 AM   #38
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I'm still trying to figure out how to use the manual leveling. When I try it never works like I expect it to. Guess I don't know what I'm doing!! More important stuff to worry about now - the furnace quit working and it's cold in Arizona! Thank goodness for the electric fireplace.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:52 AM   #39
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I am not familiar with the function of RV auto levers but I am familiar with electronic sensors and hydraulics. Most controllers dont like to reverse a correction so if the hydraulic ram moves too fast and overshoots instead of backing off a little it will raise the other rams to compensate and if they overshoot a bit it goes back and raises the first adjustment again. This cycle can continue until level is hit. Which is why what seemed like a shallow grade ended up with all or most of the wheels off the ground. The old electric motor and screw moved so slow that the sensors could respond before they overshot.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:42 AM   #40
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Hi, I'm interested to learn more about concerns related to one or more wheels being lifted off the ground by the jacks. I assume lifting all tires off the ground isn't recommended because of the loss of the benefit of your brakes (i.e. a rubber tire with a brake applied in contact with the ground will help prevent the rv from moving/sliding, given the smooth surface on the bottom of the jack). Are there other reasons why you wouldn't want one or more tires lifted off the ground for an extended time? Are the jacks rated to hold the full weight of the rv for an extended period of time? Thanks for any detail you can provide.
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