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Old 01-17-2019, 09:17 PM   #21
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The puck works great. I've actually had one given to me with the last three campers I bought...using one right now at home and have since I bought the Thor. No issues as long as you don't power up the welder to it. I use of for batteries and fridge only...may a TV occasionally.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:28 PM   #22
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Only issue I have been concerned w is the weight of the big cord pulling down on the puck when plugged in. Not much there to hold up weight of a 30 or 50 cord but I am dealing w 50 to 15. I love the dogbone that actually have the screw on 50 amp female and the 15a male plug just 18" away. That way the weight is carried at the big 50 amp RV female which carries the weight of the 50a cord when in use. Hook up extension cord and batteries stay charged. Thx Dennis.
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfryman View Post
I've had several 30A to 15A pucks. I had one get hot once and distort the source 15A side. Threw the others away and have stuck with dogbones since with no problems.
I had exactly the same experience several years ago. I honestly don't know if it was a problem of the "puck" or just not being completely plugged in, allowing it to arch. In any case, I went to the dogbone style after that...I have the space and feel like it is more "heavy duty".
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:01 PM   #24
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Anybody keeping track of the tally?

Problems with PUCK adapters - multiple

Problems with DOGBONE adapters - zero

That's what I'm seeing. Did I miss any?
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Old 01-18-2019, 10:10 PM   #25
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Duly noted...
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Old 01-18-2019, 11:27 PM   #26
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Men reporting problems ó multiple

Women reporting problems ó zero

We should let the ladies plug in.


Just kidding, but serious about data needing to be statically significant, otherwise it doesnít prove much either way. While Tfryman is absolutely right about data, I think there are more people using the Puck adaptors than the Dogbone. That in itself will skew data some.
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:51 PM   #27
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I've used that exact adaptor from Walmart since last February. I haven't seen any issues. Keeps the batteries charged and occasionally allows me to use the AC.
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Old 01-21-2019, 01:16 AM   #28
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Remember the 30 to 15 amp adapter is only rated for 15 amps regardless of how it is made. The outlet it is plugged in to will likely have a 20 amp rated outlet fed by a 20 amp breaker.


If you overload it by an additional 5 amps the 20 amp breaker will allow this but the adapter is likely to get overheated and will could cause adverse consequences such as fire, sparks, and reduced voltage to the RV.


Personally I've never seen a 30 to 20 amp adapter for sale but its easy enough to make one by buying a 20 amp plug and 12 gauge wire. A safer alternative if you have the electrical skills to do so.


Technically the electrical codes only allow a continuous load of 80% of the circuits capacity which in this case would be 16 amps. Hence most adapters are only rated at 15 amps.


Hard to make a drawing here but the way you can tell the difference between the two types of plugs:


20 amp prongs look like this - | (one prong is perpendicular to the other)



15 amp prongs look like this | | (both prongs are parallel to the other)
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:20 PM   #29
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Whether dogbone or puck, I think you've answered my question - but would like to "draw" on your experience a bit more ;-)

Planning to dry camp in In-Laws driveway for a couple of nights over Easter. Residential neighborhood, so don't want to run generator much if at all. In your experience, has pulling from a 15/20 amp circuit been enough to handle essentials; such as water pump, coach lights and maybe TV and/or radio? Hosting grandkids, so yeah - TV is "essential". (30 amp Windsport rig btw).

I could do the math with the listed amperage requirements of each device; but I've found those to be best-guess numbers at best.
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:37 PM   #30
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yep, you'll be fine...

you can also easily find an extension cord or reel at W*mt or hardware stores that have a built in 15amp or 20amp 'breaker', with a light, that tells you when you have power, and it will trip rather than the breaker in the house tripping...
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:48 PM   #31
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I agree... But if you try running the air conditioner, microwave, and a coffee pot at the exact same time:
(Let the 'fridge run on propane...)
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:47 AM   #32
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Thanks guys (Bob and Turner...). That's what I thought, but always wise to get the voice of experience. Central NC in mid-April; shouldn't need heat or A/C. Plan to run fridge on propane, for as long as it lasts anyway. That's another issue I need to resolve through trial and error. House gauge reads "Full", tank gauge reads 3/4. I KNOW the former is wrong, and suspect latter is wrong as well. Haven't filled tank in a year. While evacuated 2 weeks for Hurricane Florence, we used propane on fridge for approx 48 hours, used stove at least once a day for coffee, several times for cooking, and oven a couple of times. Other minor usage here and there. I'm guessing maybe a quarter tank. Think I'll get one of those sticker gauges to assist with that; then possibly replace tank gauge based on results.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:36 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
... So the Missus and I killing time by walking around in the local Walmart, and I come across this item in their meager RV Section, that has me curious...
It's a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter plug. Not the typical 18" or so long cord, that has one style plug (30 amp) at one end: and the other style (20 amp) at the other. This little ditty has you plug your 30 amp cord into it, and then you can plug it into a 20 amp outlet...

Is there anything to be concerned about; if someone decides to give one of them a try?
They will work in a pinch for battery charging and lights but I would not try to use it and try to run your a/c coffee pot or microwave chances are it would trip the breaker anyway but those items require more amps then the adapter will give and the adapter will get very hot and possibly cause damage to your a/c units.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:11 AM   #34
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I kind of figured that; Thanks!
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:50 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simidrm View Post
They will work in a pinch for battery charging and lights but I would not try to use it and try to run your a/c coffee pot or microwave chances are it would trip the breaker anyway but those items require more amps then the adapter will give and the adapter will get very hot and possibly cause damage to your a/c units.
Let's 'understand' electrical usage, when it comes to Volts and Amps, as several of these statements are certainly misleading and not from experience...

- dogbone or puck 'adapters' are nothing more than a way to connect your shore cord to a smaller or different outlet... it has nothing to do with 'working in a pinch' as this still provides the exact SAME 120v of power as any other connection, whether 50amp, 30amp, 20amp, 15amp, or anything in between.

- adapters don't 'give' amps, they simply pass along 120v of power - no different than any other outlet or connection. The adapter has NOTHING to do with amps. Amps are how 'much' 120 volts of power you are using at the same time between several appliances or devices. The BREAKER controls amps, not the adapter.

- how in the world using an adapter would have anything to do with 'causing damage to your air conditioner' is beyond me. This topic of using a simple adapter has nothing to do with your air conditioner, or any other appliance or device in your RV. Some folks have 'heard' that using anything less than full '50amp' service, or '30amp' service can somehow lead to some type of damage to their air conditioner, but that is simply bunk. Using an adapter has NOTHING to do with 120 volts of power.
Can a campground, or rv park, or your home even, have a voltage that drops below the 120volt range, that could effective the startup of the compressor of an air conditioner? Sure, it happens all the time. But, this is not in itself a reason to 'assume' that just because you use an adapter that you are somehow contributing to that. The adapter has nothing to do with whether the power is 120v or anything else, only that you can plug into an outlet that has a different style of plug.


While I understand the reaction that some have when it comes to whether certain electrical devices, adapters, or hookup styles can create issues while you are camping, the reality is that 120v of service is 120v of service, no matter 'how' you connect to it. The subject of AMPS, though, is a totally different one, though many times confused with the 'type' or 'size' of outlet or plug that you are using - amps are related to 'how much power I am trying to use all at the same time', NOT the type or size or style of 'plug' or 'outlet' that I am using to get that power. The BREAKER will provide the protection for amps, but the style of plug really has nothing to do with that, only the size of the breaker itself.

If you TRIP a breaker, whether one in your RV, or the one where you are plugged in, it is simply telling you that you are trying to power more things at the same time than the BREAKER is designed to handle. It doesnt' 'hurt' anything when a breaker trips, no more than when you simply turn a light switch OFF - it just stops the power from flowing.
What it DOES tell you is that you are trying to use more power than the wires at the power source are designed to handle... A 15amp extension cord or outlet has much smaller wires than a 30amp outlet, and much, much less than a 50amp outlet. Larger wires can handle more heat, and therefore more power 'flow'. If your 15amp household type outlet trips, then you just have to pair back on what appliances or devices you are trying to power.
Sometimes, also, your Battery Charger or electric Water Heater are silent users of large amounts of power, and can easily contribute to TRIPPING of breakers when you don't realize they are actually ON. Turning off the Charger and Water Heater while on 15amp power goes a long way in allowing that 'dogbone' or 'adapter' to give you most all of the power you need, even to run your air conditioner.

Don't be 'afraid' of how you connect to shore power, or what adapter(s) you use to make that happen, as all you are doing is providing a simple method for your 'larger' Shore Cord to adapt to a 'smaller' outlet - nothing more. The power is simply the same.


Plug in! Enjoy! : )
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:30 PM   #36
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Well said...
But to simplify it a bit:
It's got little to do with voltage;. It's more about how much "stuff" you try to power up.
When you ask your setup to do too much: breakers start poppin'!
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PictureTheSouth View Post
Whether dogbone or puck, I think you've answered my question - but would like to "draw" on your experience a bit more ;-)

Planning to dry camp in In-Laws driveway for a couple of nights over Easter. Residential neighborhood, so don't want to run generator much if at all. In your experience, has pulling from a 15/20 amp circuit been enough to handle essentials; such as water pump, coach lights and maybe TV and/or radio? Hosting grandkids, so yeah - TV is "essential". (30 amp Windsport rig btw).

I could do the math with the listed amperage requirements of each device; but I've found those to be best-guess numbers at best.

You should be fine even when running the frig. The short burst of microwave or coffee pot should not even be an issue. However It really depends on what else is on the same circuit in the house.


First have a "Good" extension cord 12 gauge is best but no less than 14 gauge to minimize voltage drop in the cord to your trailer. The 10 gauge 30 amp cord that comes with the coach with an adapter is the best if it will reach. Second I always use a plugin voltage meter to monitor the circuit voltage. The circuit should read around 120 to 125 Volts under no load. If the circuit drops more than 10 volts when loads are applied you need to back off something.


Here is a very handy device that lets you monitor voltage and current for example:

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Energ...SIN=B06XH73LJB

(i am not recommending this specific device, many brands are available)


I keep both of these plugged into my camper permanently to monitor the quality of any hookup I'm connected to anywhere to check for improper wiring.


https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-80-3...SIN=B015H0A3FO

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instru...89D2Z5B6FHPCX8
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:50 PM   #38
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Much better to use a 10 gauge extension if you need one
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:13 PM   #39
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I agree: find yourself a good 10-gauge extension cord...
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
... So the Missus and I killing time by walking around in the local Walmart, and I come across this item in their meager RV Section, that has me curious...
It's a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter plug. Not the typical 18" or so long cord, that has one style plug (30 amp) at one end: and the other style (20 amp) at the other. This little ditty has you plug your 30 amp cord into it, and then you can plug it into a 20 amp outlet...

Is there anything to be concerned about; if someone decides to give one of them a try?
I had one for years that worked fine when just maintaining batteries, but when family was visiting and staying in the trailer, with extra load of fridge, water heater and TVs, it melted even though it wasn't enough load to pop the 20 amp breaker. I replaced it with a heavy duty dog bone type and it's been good every since (doesn't even get warm)
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