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Old 03-07-2020, 05:25 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by lspotho View Post
Thanks - I was thinking it might be somewhere else in the electrical system - but your message reminds me to consider the obvious answer first!


Dan
I don't know if you ever got your answer, but another thing to try...

I assume that you have something that is in fact causing the breaker to trip inside the RV. Easy fix is as others have suggested as to avoid a GFCI circuit. I have not encountered that, but next time i have RV I will purposely plug into GFCI breaker just to see what happens.

Given it is happening and you just wish to know why, you may try to plug one of the AC testers into every electrical socket in the coach to see if you see a wiring issue?

If your coach is under warranty a dealer may look at? In my GFCI tripping case it was wired properly, but nicks on wiring insulation along with some obvious moisture corrosion (it wasn't wet though). I put a new cover with new sealing insulation on the receptacle that I found to be culprit.
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Old 03-07-2020, 07:33 PM   #42
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Used to have a motor-home that I plugged in at storage, which worked well unless the refrigerator was on, then it would consistently trip the GFI. It never caused a problem when we were out, and plugged into park shore power, just on that fifteen amp circuit with the GFI on it. Never did figure that one out, but that motor-home is long gone, now.
Home was a gfi circuit. Park was not. Problem was with the fridge. If residential it was a bad compressor motor. If non-resi it was a neutral to ground bond that should not have been there.
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Old 03-07-2020, 07:42 PM   #43
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My issue with GFCI was due to old wires that were either nicked, exposed wiring due to insulation raveling, or simply just showing some corrosion from the moisture over a 15 year span.

I replaced the last 8 inches or so of the old wiring with this new 12-15 inch strip and everything is now grounded properly per code and NOT tripping the new GFCI.

You can see where I used a Marine grade heat adhesive shrink tubing.

Note: This problem should have been noted a long time ago had the original electrician installed a GFCI as he should have. That old receptacle box is only 5 feet from a pool !!! I never would have known until I just happened to want to add a new box in another area on the other side of the yard. This was necessitated after the Gate Installers accidentally cut a buried wire going to old receptacle. I kept thinking it was me or an issue with brand new GFCI, but the GFCI did what it is supposed to do, help save lives by telling you something is wrong.

Incidentally the new GFCI box is inside the fence, and on the opposite side of fence is RV. It has 20 amp receptacle on it's 100 amp subpanel, but it is nice to have extra power outlets when you are outside.

Thanks all for the help.
That is not to code GFI'ed or not. Too close to the pool.
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Old 03-07-2020, 10:41 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
...

Given it is happening and you just wish to know why, you may try to plug one of the AC testers into every electrical socket in the coach to see if you see a wiring issue?

If your coach is under warranty a dealer may look at?
No warranty at this point, and I doubt my dealer has an experienced electrician - but I will ask.

I will check all the outlets in the RV...

I want a little more than to know why - I want to be able to charge at home!

One question that will prove my ignorance: I thought one GFCI on a circuit would protect ALL the sockets on that circuit. Not true?

Thanks to everyone for their info!

Dan
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Old 03-07-2020, 10:54 PM   #45
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No warranty at this point, and I doubt my dealer has an experienced electrician - but I will ask.

I will check all the outlets in the RV...

I want a little more than to know why - I want to be able to charge at home!

One question that will prove my ignorance: I thought one GFCI on a circuit would protect ALL the sockets on that circuit. Not true?

Thanks to everyone for their info!

Dan
Yes, the GFI outlet is the first outlet and any hooked downstream are protected. Usually 4 or 5 on a circuit in an RV. You my have 2 GFI circuits.
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Old 03-10-2020, 12:08 AM   #46
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Home was a gfi circuit. Park was not. Problem was with the fridge. If residential it was a bad compressor motor. If non-resi it was a neutral to ground bond that should not have been there.
It was a Norcold absorption refrigerator. Ran ok on LP, but if on electric , tripped the GFI at storage. It would run about five to ten minutes before tripping, but as I said that motor-home is long gone now.
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Old 03-10-2020, 12:27 AM   #47
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lspotho, I think you are overconcerned and maybe overthinking your 'issue' with your home's outlet - simply plug your RV into the adapter and then into the home's outlet. No surge protector or anything else needed.

If your home outlet's breaker trips, then you have simply too much ON within your RV and it is exceeding the outlet circuit's breaker limit, usually 15amp, or maybe 20. Sometimes the RV's battery charger, whether thru the Converter, or an integrated Inverter, will be in 'Bulk Charge' mode, along with any other items that might be plugged in within the RV, drawing more than the breaker is designed to handle.
Turn OFF, or turn DOWN, the battery charger, to see if this helps to solve the issue.

If your home outlet is on a GFCI circuit, or is a GFCI outlet itself, they sometimes will not 'play' well along with your RV's own GFCI circuit. Simply do a test by tripping your RV's GFCI breaker, in your RV's main panel, and see if this 'solves' the issue. Since your battery charger in the RV is certainly NOT on a GFCI circuit, but is on it's own, it should then work, regardless.

You 'concern' of 'plugging into a household outlet', whether at your home, or at a Campground, or RV park, is unfounded. You have little to concern yourself with. Try testing without any surge protector or other inline device and you may see yourself with fewer 'issues'.
We've traveled well over 100,000 miles across this country, even Alaska, and most provinces in Canada, and have 'plugged in' to many, many different and various and interesting and even unconventional electrical outlets and have YET to ever have any issue - and we have NEVER used any surge protector or any other type of supposed 'protective' device - it's just not that needed, though some will anyway because they are the type to worry about it, but it can complicate the 'issues' when electrical questions arise.
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Old 03-12-2020, 05:37 PM   #48
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... I told him I was a 30+ year aircraft electrician and electricity is electricity....

Ahhh.... that's the problem. RV electricity is different that aircraft electricity. You should have known that......I am surprised he didn't explain it to you
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Old 05-21-2020, 06:35 PM   #49
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RV Power source at home

Hey guys, this is on the same topic of powering the RV at home. Have any of you had a breaker installed at home to power your RV? We are having a friend who is an electrician coming over today to give us an estimate. We are wondering, If so, did you get 120 or 210V installed?
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Old 05-21-2020, 06:58 PM   #50
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Hey guys, this is on the same topic of powering the RV at home. Have any of you had a breaker installed at home to power your RV? We are having a friend who is an electrician coming over today to give us an estimate. We are wondering, If so, did you get 120 or 210V installed?
The choices are 120 or 240 volts. And 30 or 50 amps. It depends of what service your RV has. 30 amp 3 wire or 50 amp 4 wire.
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:21 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by RAWeems View Post
Hey guys, this is on the same topic of powering the RV at home. Have any of you had a breaker installed at home to power your RV? We are having a friend who is an electrician coming over today to give us an estimate. We are wondering, If so, did you get 120 or 210V installed?
Recommend you go 50amp and dog bone down to 30 if needed. The way youíll be ready if to upgrade later. I paid 350 for 30 amp and the paid 500 to upgrade to 50 amp. Everything had to change for the upgrade.
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:47 PM   #52
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The choices are 120 or 240 volts. And 30 or 50 amps. It depends of what service your RV has. 30 amp 3 wire or 50 amp 4 wire.
Ok, we have a 30 amp. Thor 2020 Vegas so I would ask for a 30/3 wires?? Would that be 120V?
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:49 PM   #53
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Recommend you go 50amp and dog bone down to 30 if needed. The way youíll be ready if to upgrade later. I paid 350 for 30 amp and the paid 500 to upgrade to 50 amp. Everything had to change for the upgrade.
Now I'll respectfully disagree with you...
ONLY because if you will never buy an RV that requires a 50 amp service (like us!): there's really no need for anything more than 30 amps at the box...
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:56 PM   #54
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Now I'll respectfully disagree with you...
ONLY because if you will never buy an RV that requires a 50 amp service (like us!): there's really no need for anything more than 30 amps at the box...
Ok thanks. We don't plan on buying anything bigger as it is just us 2 and we aren't fulltime so we feel what we have is enough. I appreciate all of your answers. It's a big help. We plan on taking it out just for the weekend to a quiet campground in NC away from the beach areas and craziness just to get acquainted with her and learn more about hooking her up and so forth. Hoping I don't forget to pack anything that is really needed
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:01 PM   #55
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Now I'll respectfully disagree with you...
ONLY because if you will never buy an RV that requires a 50 amp service (like us!): there's really no need for anything more than 30 amps at the box...
Do it now, do it later, itís only money. Like I said it is a recommendation based on experience. A 30 amp rig can run everything off 50 amp but that is not true when you buy a 50 amp rig and run it off 30 amp.

Again, a recommendation. The poster can do what their wallet can afford.
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:10 PM   #56
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Absolutely!
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:17 PM   #57
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Ok, we have a 30 amp. Thor 2020 Vegas so I would ask for a 30/3 wires?? Would that be 120V?
YES. AND you need a 30 a RV receptical to match your trailer plug. If you think you may need 50 amp in the future for a bigger rig, put in the 50 amp and hook up with a 50/30 dog bone adapter.
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:29 PM   #58
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Or you could get the extra-fancy 50/30/20 amp box...

No dogbone necessary!
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Old 05-21-2020, 11:15 PM   #59
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Or you could get the extra-fancy 50/30/20 amp box...

No dogbone necessary!
That is what I did. Could not have been too much more than $150 of extra cost and all in materials. I would go with the 50/30/20 every time.

I use the 20 amp 110 a lot more than I though I would (convenience) and on a few occasion my brother came by and he hooks up to the 30amp. Even though I have 50amp, I have learned that I can get by with 30amp. In fact; I am out now and hooked up to 20 am service and it runs both AC no problem.

I have dogbones for every situation. I love ANY kind of shorepower. Electricity is good if you stay out of lightening, despite those old cartoons where they expose all of your bones
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