In the process of installing a Renogy system. Finding the wires in the vent tube in the roof was interesting. I went with three 175 watt flexible panels and a 40 amp charge controller with Bluetooth.
The prewired for solar Axis for example comes with a solar controller, wired to the roof to a MC4 junction box and the controller is wired to the batteries. All you have to do more or less is to install the solar panel on the roof and plug them into the MC4 junction box, but more specifics below.
To install your own solar panel(s) you just have to wire the panel output to the MC4 junction box. If you have more than one, then if two wire them in series and then to the junction box. If three then they will all have to be wired in parallel. If four then you can wire them in series/parallel. This can be done with MC4 connectors and parallel MC4 Ys or you can wire them in series/parallel with butt/tee crimps.
Wiring four in series/parallel as described above is best because it doubles the voltage and thereby cuts the voltage drop in half compared to four in parallel. But wiring all in parallel will work.
The solar controller is probably a Go Power10A PWM model. If you are installing more than 190 watts of panels you will need to upgrade it. I would go with a 30A Victron MPPT unit. You absolutely need an MPPT controller if you wire the panels in series.
The wire from the controller to the batteries will be a little small for four panels. I would upgrade it to #8 if it is near the batteries as on the Axis, #6 if further.
Which brand on Amazon? looks like you have 2 100watt panels and I see a 200watt panel on Amazon too. We have the same controller on our Vegas and guess I'm wondering if there was a reason for installing 2?
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdaddy1111
I had service shop put on 2 panels I bought off Amazon. 200 watts
Love it, chassis and 4 house batteries always topped off.
Will run the frig 24/7 and lights.
200 watts was max for the pre installed system that came with rig.
We did not do a permanent install on our pre-wired '19 Vegas. Wanted a solar option but 95% of the time we are hooked up to power, running on board generator, or a Honda 2000.
Folds up and stores in drawer or outside bin. 100w isn't great but super simple to connect and get some juice in the batteries. Pretty nice quality and can be used as a standalone charging station. Pretty versatile and like I said, just another option.
I’m convinced that the only time solar makes sense for most people is to keep the batteries topped up if/when the coach is stored outside for weeks at a time. To do that you only need about 80-100W. Simple and cheap (under $100) if you already have the wiring and controller. Not much more even if you don’t. DIY.
Which brand on Amazon? looks like you have 2 100watt panels and I see a 200watt panel on Amazon too. We have the same controller on our Vegas and guess I'm wondering if there was a reason for installing 2?
Installed year ago, DIY Will tested ton, went with his recommendation.
Has anyone installed a solar panel on their pre wired coach.
Any thoughts are much appreciated
What DavidEM said. I installed a single GoPower Overlander 190W panel, Tracer BN 40A MPPT charge controller. I was 22' from my battery bank so I upgraded to #6 wire in case I add another 190w panel.
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Jeff & Naomi & Ryu
2019 Thor Chateau V25
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk
Yup ! I installed a 160 Watt Renogy panel to my 10 amp existing controller. The pre-wired feature made it very easy : purchased a 6 bracket drill-less kit and the panel : just $250 CDN and all good : batteries stay topped in summer and charged during winter storage.
What DavidEM said. I installed a single GoPower Overlander 190W panel, Tracer BN 40A MPPT charge controller. I was 22' from my battery bank so I upgraded to #6 wire in case I add another 190w panel.
while we had 2 100w panels for our trip to Alaska, and I'm sure they added some 'off grid' time that we might have otherwise needed to run the generator longer for, the reality is that the price/cost of solar compared to the relative economic payback is very low.... and very is probably not the best adjective to use, since most RVrs don't even every use their RVs enough to ever see any economic payback, or even a break even over what they would have 'spent' otherwise ....
the real appreciation is 'quiet' power, even if it's not much time of that quiet power, as compared to other sources, especially a generator, that may already be built-in to the RV and part of the cost already paid. Yes, generators take fuel, but fuel cost for the efficient generators that most of us already have installed in our rigs is relatively low - probably much lower cost than we assume, for the little time we use them.
Solar is a compromise between quiet power and fuel-based power - but since it's current price for the equipment is extremely high, it's not a win-win just because you have the money to buy and install it. It makes you feel good, but the economics rarely work for RVing. Your rig, especially Class A and C's, are typically already charging the House batteries while traveling. The batteries are already being charged and power being used when plugged into Shore Power. The ONLY time solar actually comes into play is when you are parked, with no engine power, with no shore power, AND the sun is out. Since most RVrs are going to need a generator or shore power for either heat, or most commonly, AIR CONDITIONING in the summer months, when most RV travel is made, the generator is STILL going to be in play - anytime it is running, the solar is no longer needed.
I'm not stating anything to dissuade those who just have the money to add solar to their rigs, but typically it is never going to be any payback to your pocketbook, and although it 'may' be able to shorten your generator run times or shore power needs, those electrical power options are still going to be the primary players. If you have enough money to fill your roof, and even more, with solar, and your basement or storage with a huge battery bank, then you are not doing it for 'casual' RVing, but probably more for 'full time' usage - which is not the average RVing use, and is a scenario for other 'solar' discussions.
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the Turners...
two Campers, two Electric cars
former diesel pusher traveler
I couldn't disagree more with what you say, Turnerfam.
400 watts of panels, a controller and the wiring can be installed by a competent DIYer for about $500. It should keep up with most dry campers power needs, ex air conditioning of course as long as you have an absorption fridge and with a small efficient DC compressor fridge, it can also keep up with that.
I have never run my A/C except when it was brand new to see if it works and I rarely plug in to shore power. Solar provides all of the power I need for less than a thousand bucks.
If my MH hadn't come with a generator I would just buy a $600 Champion inverter generator to use occasionally when the sun don't shine. Lots cheaper and more efficient than the built in Onan.
DavidEM: I agree with you on solar. I like to boondock as much as possible, keep my inverter turned on for hours at a time which powers my Sat Dish & TVs, all while being “generator off” quiet and without pollution.
I use just two 12volt FLA’s & 200 watts of solar. Spent about $325 + DIY.
I live and camp mostly in sunny CA & AZ.
That said...the on-board generator is very convenient, uses very little fuel (.5 or less gal/hr), and can power the air conditioning unit & convection/microwave when needed.
So, bottomline, I love having both options.
Several on this Forum have even opted for 600-800 watts of solar, a 4000 watt inverter, and large lithium battery bank...even though their on-board generator can power all their needs.
Not sure what your needs are, but this is what I use (see attached). You will need to know#1 Wire gauge size on your rig #2 the capacity of your controller. I know my 160w, 12 volt panel is good - close to max limit - for my 10 amp Controler. (200 watt panel is too high for a 10 amp controller)
For example : When I will upgrade to another 160w panel (total 320w), I will change the controller to 30 amps.
A Thor Service agent has confirmed the pre-wiring from Roof to Controller is 10 gauge, so this will hold my total 320 watts (12volt) to 30 amp controler since there is almost never 100% perfect charging from the Sun because of the angle, shade, quality of materials, pollution, etc... to be effective at the max rate of tested charge in a Lab.
So, the total Watts you will add should not surpass the limit of the wiring and controller. You will need confirmation on the build for your rig. (wire & controller)
I have found 10g wire where the controller was supposed to be installed. I will install 40 amp MTTB controller. When I find the roof connectors I want to install 400w of panels. I will use 2 gauge wire from controller to my 4 12v AGM batteries and 3000k GO-POWER inverter
Pre-Installed wiring for Solar
Linear Mode
