Kantleak and the WH bypass setting

[WearyTraveler]

A couple of questions that I’m hoping you more experienced RVers can help me with.
I just bought a new brass Kantleak from ABCORP. I’ve seen a video and the sales person told me that the HW bypass connections have to be swapped. Well, there are 3 connections. Which 2 need to be swapped? I’m ASSuming that it’s the WH in and WH out connections that have to be swapped, but I don’t want to do it wrong.

So - question 1 - what is the WH bypass connectivity on the back of my new Kantleak?

My WH has the 3 bypass valves on it. That’s what I use to winterize. The Kantleak has a bypass setting.

Question 2 - What does this do? What affect does putting the Kantleak into bypass have on the overall RV? I’d still have to blow out the lines / put antifreeze in the pipes. Can someone explain the purpose?

[EA37TS]

On my Challenger if I used the bypass function on the Kantleak it did the same thing as if I used the bypass valves at the water heater. If the Kantleak is in bypass you will not be able to fill the hot water tank. One thing to keep in mind is when using the Kantleak bypass there will still be water left in the lines going from the Kantleak to the WH. I always used the valves at the WH for that reason.

I never tore mine about so I can't tell you about the connections and I no longer have the Challenger to look. My current coach uses the Nautilus P3 system.

[WearyTraveler]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

On my Challenger if I used the bypass function on the Kantleak it did the same thing as if I used the bypass valves at the water heater. If the Kantleak is in bypass you will not be able to fill the hot water tank. One thing to keep in mind is when using the Kantleak bypass there will still be water left in the lines going from the Kantleak to the WH. I always used the valves at the WH for that reason.

I never tore mine about so I can't tell you about the connections and I no longer have the Challenger to look. My current coach uses the Nautilus P3 system.

Thank you for the response! That’s what I thought as well. Putting the Kantleak in bypass still left water in the to and from WH lines. That would need to be drained as well. Why not just put the WH in bypass since it has the valves already.