Tall Leveling Blocks

[Zapnod]

I have a Thor Omni. I use leveling blocks to level the RV then I use the leveling system to stabilize the rv. I have been in situations where I needed 7 inches of rise in the front or back to be level. This calls for a lot of blocks. Is there a better way to get 5+ inches of rise on an rv?

[Chateau_Nomad]

I bought a rubber stall mat (for horse barns, etc.) at Tractor Supply. Then cut it into one foot squares. If memory serves, they are 3/4" thick and pretty indestructible, AND don't slide around like boards or plastic leveling blocks.

I used a Skil saw, but a Sawzall would probably work too. They're messy to cut, but not that difficult. You could cut any size or shape you need. If you're driving up on them, I'd suggest at least a few two foot pieces for a base, then a bunch of one foot squares to stack as needed.

Since I can't use Snap Pads due to clearance, I lay at least one under each jack foot... or as many as needed. I found I rarely need more than four under one end of the rig.

I believe I have about a dozen one foot squares.

[16ACE27]

You have a leveling system: Use it to level the RV, stabilization is a side effect.
If the site is too far out of level for your leveling system, find a different site.

[jabrabu]

The rubber stall mat is a great idea, but I wish I could find some thicker ones.


My driveway has enough slope that I need to use some blocks in order for the leveler to get it fully level. I've been using pressure treated 2x12 boards cut into 1 ft. squares, but they end up breaking after a year or two of use.


I'm thinking that I could get the rubber mat and glue pieces together to make ramps and various thickness support blocks.

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

You have a leveling system: Use it to level the RV, stabilization is a side effect.
If the site is too far out of level for your leveling system, find a different site.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1661949703

[RVwife]

Originally Posted by jabrabu

The rubber stall mat is a great idea, but I wish I could find some thicker ones.


My driveway has enough slope that I need to use some blocks in order for the leveler to get it fully level. I've been using pressure treated 2x12 boards cut into 1 ft. squares, but they end up breaking after a year or two of use.


I'm thinking that I could get the rubber mat and glue pieces together to make ramps and various thickness support blocks.

My husband made several sets of leveling blocks using some left over, 2X12 much like you did. However, rather than 1 ft squares, he made graduated lengths. He cut the ends on (I think) a 45 degree angle so the would create a ramp when stacked on top of each other. Then he drilled a series of holes in them so that a carriage bolt can be dropped (and counter sunk) in the holes to hold the stack together. That helps a lot if you are trying to get onto 3 blocks on a sandy site or one with lots of loose gravel.

They have worked very well for us for 4+ years with none breaking.

I have to admit that by the time we are using a stack of 3, which is rare, that height makes me a little nervous, but DH thinks it is fine. So far it has been.

As to the rubber horse stall mats... they are great and we did think about going that route. Most you will find is indeed 3/4 inch thick. They are VERY heavy in their original 4 ft x 6 ft size. (I used them as the surface in my horse barn and they have held up fabulously for 15 years. It basically takes 2 people to move them though, unless you want to do some serious injury to your back.) Much as they might be great, it was the weight that deterred us from going that route, even when cut to smaller strips. Go to TSC and give them a look. Maybe you have more muscle than I.

To cut those mats, DON'T use a saw. It will gum up horridly. Instead, lay the mat over a 2x4 where you want to make your cut line and use a utility knife along a metal straight edge. You may have to make several cuts to get thru the thickness, but each time you cut, the line opens up a bit since the 2x4 is under it. Doesn't really take a lot of force after the first cut.

Good luck to all.

[Mousemate]

i have used azek or home depot tuff board... ...i cut it to size and pvc glue it together .. put some stainless screws in the corners...i just add pieces to the desire height... lighter than wood and it does not smell when it gets wet.... Been using them for years...

hope this helps

[Chateau_Nomad]

If cut into 1 foot squares, a ramp can be made with the stall mat by laying pieces in a row and stacking as needed, which I've done several times. Also, 1 foot square pieces are MUCH easier to fit into storage bins, and individual squares are relatively light.

The problem I had with 2x6 boards was they slid on blacktop or concrete too easily. The "bolts through" is an excellent idea... but again by the time I calculated all the combinations of boards I needed, it took up far more space than the 1x rubber squares.

Caveat... With now having hydraulic leveling, I ONLY need 1 foot squares... no "ramps" needed. But the rubber mat idea was to solve the constant sliding problem I had trying to drive a class C onto board ramps... and the storage.

I originally had the stall mat cut in varying lengths for ramping. But after getting the hydraulic leveling, I just cut them all down to 1x1 foot squares.

Also... I tried the utility knife method for cutting. That didn't work for me... was taking FAR too long.

The Skil Saw method was most efficient. I didn't get any gumming up of the blade... BUT, it's VERY MESSY with burning rubber smell and lots of "rubber saw dust". Care must be taken to not bind the blade. Do this outside and WEAR A MASK! I would have used my Sawzall, but the battery is old and short lived. I would recommend a Sawzall over the Skil saw method.

Like anything RV related, this project and result is personal preference from experience. You need to use what works for YOU!!

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by jabrabu

The rubber stall mat is a great idea, but I wish I could find some thicker ones.


My driveway has enough slope that I need to use some blocks in order for the leveler to get it fully level. I've been using pressure treated 2x12 boards cut into 1 ft. squares, but they end up breaking after a year or two of use.


I'm thinking that I could get the rubber mat and glue pieces together to make ramps and various thickness support blocks.

If your that out of level block your other wheels and lift the front off the ground and put boards or blocks under them. Then if it still won't level put blocks under the jacks and if the wheels come off the ground, put more blocks under the wheels and then lift the motorhome with the jacks and if the wheels (well you get the idea, instead of driving up on them) The safest is move to a level spot

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

If your that out of level block your other wheels and lift the front off the ground and put boards or blocks under them. Then if it still won't level put blocks under the jacks and if the wheels come off the ground, put more blocks under the wheels and then lift the motorhome with the jacks and if the wheels (well you get the idea, instead of driving up on them) The safest is move to a level spot

If it takes that many blocks find another campground

Are you leaving Mama at home so you can carry enough blocks?

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

If it takes that many blocks find another campground

Are you leaving Mama at home so you can carry enough blocks?

I went to visit my son and his driveway was so bad I would have need to lift the back off the ground about 2 feet. We went to the back of his home and parked in the grass and plugged into 120 good for one AC

[williamprunty]

Are your tires off the ground? That is bad juju.

[TL1961]

Like the rubber stall mat idea! I went with 2x10s cut into 10 inch squares. I crisscrossed each with a few strips of duct tape, so if/when they crack or split they stay together (already proved that theory). The tape is also tacky enough on the outside to keep them together and prevent them from sliding apart when stacked. I’ve stacked up to four high several times without any issues.

[JamesLewis]

I built mine from clear tight grain 2X4s and hardwood. They stack into
11"X9"X6" compact cubes for easy stowage. 2 sets will raise a wheel 6" or duals 4".

[JamesLewis]

Continued: The blocks lock together and have a little play so the ground does not have to be perfectly flat. and is a very stable platform. A 2" wide nylon strap that is 12" long and can be wedged between the upper and lower cross pieces of the leading edge of the block. The 12" strap is pulled through the 2 cross pieces and placed on the ground facing the tire to be raised. The tire rolls toward the raising block and onto the strap thus preventing the raising block from sliding back.

[MJC62]

I used to haul around 2x12 scaffold plank cut to various sizes to drive up and 18''squares of marine plywood for the jacks to land on. Now as I am a few years older and don't want to crawl around anymore than I have to, we have installed a set of Snap Pads on the jack feet. If the site isn't level enough for me to get the rig level with the jacks, it ain't level enough to stay at.

[Chateau_Nomad]

I would love to have the Snap Pads. While they're great for a class A, there's not enough clearance for them on my class C.

If anything, this thread shows how creative RVers are at solving an age-old problem!

[Avi8rMD]

Originally Posted by Zapnod

I have a Thor Omni. I use leveling blocks to level the RV then I use the leveling system to stabilize the rv. I have been in situations where I needed 7 inches of rise in the front or back to be level. This calls for a lot of blocks. Is there a better way to get 5+ inches of rise on an rv?

I got tired of them and bought 2x12’s and cut them 1 and 2 ft long. So much easier to stack so they’re easier drive up on since they’re longer.

[Avi8rMD]

Originally Posted by Avi8rMD

I got tired of them and bought 2x12’s and cut them 1 and 2 ft long. So much easier to stack so they’re easier drive up on since they’re longer.

I’m in a motor home. Not familiar with your Omni.