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Old 07-19-2019, 05:18 AM   #21
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Thanks a bunch for the posts and APR67 and Sweetbriar thank you for the dialog. That is what I wanted to hear. Something that makes sense. I made no claim to fame on any of this other than that I have an engineering background and I have a brain too. You can probably prove statistically both of your theories about cold pressures and just let it be. I will do that and get some data versus chasing the perfect pressure.

Thanks a bunch gentleman.

@16ACE27
Way to encourage people to ask questions here. What a "insert blank" comment. Trolling.. seriously?

Cheers and thanks

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Old 07-19-2019, 03:39 PM   #22
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Interesting how there is at least one if not several tire pressure threads going all the time.

Low pressures and heavy loads heat up the tires and lower fuel economy. The latter is just more fuel at the pump and the former leaves tire fragments on the road for me to dodge.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:05 PM   #23
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Sweetbriar,
Thank you for a voice of reason in this post...
PS Cruisign,
How do you account for wind speed/direction in mpg calculations? Which one--tire pressure or wind makes the bigger difference?
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:05 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
Sweetbriar,
Thank you for a voice of reason in this post...
PS Cruisign,
How do you account for wind speed/direction in mpg calculations? Which one--tire pressure or wind makes the bigger difference?
Wingnut
"Thats funny, dont care who you are" Wind speed...right...
Will try to never have an independent thought here again... a voice..

Lets just say, what if I was on to something.... probably not but if you just walk in the herd behind the other elephants...

Cheers
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:18 PM   #25
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tire pressure

The only genuine way to check tire pressure is a 4 point weigh. You have to know the weight on each wheel. Then check the tables for the correct model of rv. Altitude p lo says a lot art in the computation as well as ambient temperature. Do 't rely on what what tire manufacturer says, it is better to go on rv mb manufacturer if you don't get 4 point weigh.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:36 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by PS Cruisign View Post
I sat the other day with a "sundowner" and a couple of friends and we started talking tire pressures. I know what I have read, I have heard from the usual "experts" about inflation.

My situation, I have the monitoring system. I have got the proper weight of my typical load out. Right now in Arizona, it is bloody hot.

So... cold door pressures? Someone chime in who is not shooting from the hip.

Thanks
Rick
In FL.....I keep pressures at 82# as per the driver side placard. I have to check before the sun comes up because once the sun heats things up, and I have tire covers on....the pressures can go up by 3 or 4# on the "sunny side"...without moving it. So in the summer, I set my pressures about 6 am.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:42 PM   #27
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You're traveling north on I15 thru southern Utah. Hot July day and the driver's side tires are at 10 psi high then the passenger side because of the afternoon sun on that side. Do you reduce the driver's side or increase the passenger side and adjust everything again at 3 AM?

You boondocked for a couple of days at Horseshoe Meadow Equestrian Camp Lone Pine, CA (10,000+ feet). Had a great time. Next stop in 305 miles is Pismo Beach at sea level. When do you adjust pressure for the altitude change and if so what do you adjust the pressure too? And do you adjust again at 3AM once everything cools down?

Spent a couple of day outside of Cleveland Ohio but now you're making a speed run to Charleston SC. A cold front moved in off the Lake overnight and it's 50 degrees. 6 hours later you hit the Shenandoah Valley and it's 70 degrees. What do you adjust the pressure too? 5 more hours down the road and Charleston SC is 90. What should the new pressure be? 3 AM it's below 60. Strange weather day. Do you adjust again?

There is such a thing as over-thinking a problem...assuming it is a problem. Logically, you set em without sun on them and let them go. The pressure ratings are for safe pressures that allow for pressure flux without damaging the tires....we hope.
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:56 AM   #28
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See the labels inside the driver's door frame for tire pressure recommended by the manufacture.
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:01 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by PS Cruisign View Post
I sat the other day with a "sundowner" and a couple of friends and we started talking tire pressures. I know what I have read, I have heard from the usual "experts" about inflation.

My situation, I have the monitoring system. I have got the proper weight of my typical load out. Right now in Arizona, it is bloody hot.

So... cold door pressures? Someone chime in who is not shooting from the hip.

Thanks
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junodtim View Post
See the labels inside the driver's door frame for tire pressure recommended by the manufacture.
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by PS Cruisign View Post
I sat the other day with a "sundowner" and a couple of friends and we started talking tire pressures. I know what I have read, I have heard from the usual "experts" about inflation.

My situation, I have the monitoring system. I have got the proper weight of my typical load out. Right now in Arizona, it is bloody hot.

So... cold door pressures? Someone chime in who is not shooting from the hip.

Thanks
Rick
I have bought literally millions of dollars worth of tires in my life. It has been a business necessity to get maximum wear per 32nd from a tire for the last 45 years...it's an ongoing battle.

An RV is loaded all the time, keep that in mind. On the sidewall of every tire is a "Loaded max psi cold" number. Better wear and less blow outs if you follow the tire sidewall number and air them to max psi cold. 'Cold' basically mean sitting and not rolling for several hours.

The sidewall of the tire is where you need to get your information.
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:12 PM   #31
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I have bought literally millions of dollars worth of tires in my life. It has been a business necessity to get maximum wear per 32nd from a tire for the last 45 years...it's an ongoing battle.

An RV is loaded all the time, keep that in mind. On the sidewall of every tire is a "Loaded max psi cold" number. Better wear and less blow outs if you follow the tire sidewall number and air them to max psi cold. 'Cold' basically mean sitting and not rolling for several hours.

The sidewall of the tire is where you need to get your information.
Yeaaaaaaaaah, NO. We are not driving trucks here for hundreds of thousands of miles and rarely need to worry about wearing out MH tires before they age out. You COULD air your tires up to max cold pressure if you wanted your MH to ride like a Flintstonemobile on rock tires.

There's a reason the vehicle manufacturer has to put the tire inflation values on all motor vehicles and a reason tire manufacturers have inflation vs load charts for their tires.

What may have worked for you in your occupation doesn't really apply to motorhomes.
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:39 PM   #32
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Yeaaaaaaaaah, NO. We are not driving trucks here for hundreds of thousands of miles and rarely need to worry about wearing out MH tires before they age out. You COULD air your tires up to max cold pressure if you wanted your MH to ride like a Flintstonemobile on rock tires.

There's a reason the vehicle manufacturer has to put the tire inflation values on all motor vehicles and a reason tire manufacturers have inflation vs load charts for their tires.

What may have worked for you in your occupation doesn't really apply to motorhomes.
The man ask for data...I just gave him what the data renders not my opinion. [collecting and analyzing for years, a luxury most consumers never get.] I bought my first motor home in 1979 and owned one ever since. My experience is all I can give, and sidewall max cold psi, brews up the best wear, heat dissipation and ride.

Proper suspension parts will do more for a smooth ride than lower psi, which can very dangerous.

I know this is a tough tough topic and along the same lines of synthetic vs. dino oil, Koni vs. Bilstein etc, etc.....data however shows the tire manufacturer to have the edge here.
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:09 PM   #33
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The man ask for data...I just gave him what the data renders not my opinion. [collecting and analyzing for years, a luxury most consumers never get.] I bought my first motor home in 1979 and owned one ever since. My experience is all I can give, and sidewall max cold psi, brews up the best wear, heat dissipation and ride.

Proper suspension parts will do more for a smooth ride than lower psi, which can very dangerous.

I know this is a tough tough topic and along the same lines of synthetic vs. dino oil, Koni vs. Bilstein etc, etc.....data however shows the tire manufacturer to have the edge here.
For trailer tires I would agree with you, for motorhomes it has long been established that you need to weigh the coach for travel and pressurize the tires for the weight they are carrying per the tire manufacturer's load vs inflation chart, which, as you say, "data however shows the tire manufacturer to have the edge here".
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:16 PM   #34
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My 2017 Hurricane 34f has both the front and rear pressure at 95psi. I run about 10psi lower for handling. Does anybody else run the recommended tire pressure of 95psi for there unit?
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:09 PM   #35
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Hey thanks Dcowley.

You did read the post right. Was just seeing if someone had a better mousetrap.

And I dont subscribe to the people who say "my way or the highway" here. I choose the highway and engineering to try to prove the great ideas in this thread.

@ACE.. remind me to never choose the spot next to you in the RV park.
Sheesh

Cheers and have a great day
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:55 PM   #36
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If I aired my coach up to max sidewall pressure the ride would be unbearable. I'll stick to the tire manufacturer's chart for pressures in relation to weight.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:58 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Dcowley View Post
...data however shows the tire manufacturer to have the edge here.
Of course the tire manufacturer both marks the max cold pressure on the sidewalls - AND - publishes the load vs inflation charts...
The nice thing is you can of course follow whichever you want - or neither.

My 'mousetrap' preference:
I am not concerned about tire wear as I never expect to wear out MH tires (unlike my passenger vehicle). I expect the vast majority of us are in same position... Date expiration and dry rot happen long before tread wear.
- If I don't know the weight of rig - or am at/near max GVWR - I set to the placard weight provided by RV manufacturer.
- If I know the axle weights, I use the tire manufacturers load vs inflation chart.

For several years our travel pattern was long (snowbird) trips and I was at/near max - so ran the placarded weight.
Now with trip durations typically measured in days/weeks and not months, I carry less, and have been able to reduce pressures to match load.

Do what works for you and gives you the ride vs. tire life you want. I would only caution against running a lower pressure than the weight you are carrying requires (based on tire manufacturer data)... but above that choose what you want up to sidewall max.
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:18 PM   #38
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@ACE.. remind me to never choose the spot next to you in the RV park.
Sheesh

Cheers and have a great day
What's that supposed to mean. My crystal ball is cloudy.
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:34 PM   #39
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ACE you have 2500 posts here and obviously a great amount of knowledge. I am a member of other forums, I have been boating for 20 years. OK, Maybe I read it wrong, but I do get an opinion and yeah it might not be yours. You basically shut me down on my experiment with data that is not supported by anything but your experience. And yes I get the tire walls.. but that is crap.. I am an engineer and I know when you are getting a limit. That is why I made this post. You just follow the trail. I was looking for some other data to support NOT following the trail. Got a couple of hits. If in the end your conclusion is accurate I will totally go with that.. but as Dcowley said... GIVE ME SOME DATA>>> Im talking stopping every hour and doing pressures... is it worth noting.. Maybe too much work.. I get it.

Thats all... and yeah.. I dont like bossy peeps. Thats why I RV... relax..

Have a great day
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:20 PM   #40
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ACE you have 2500 posts here and obviously a great amount of knowledge. I am a member of other forums, I have been boating for 20 years. OK, Maybe I read it wrong, but I do get an opinion and yeah it might not be yours. You basically shut me down on my experiment with data that is not supported by anything but your experience. And yes I get the tire walls.. but that is crap.. I am an engineer and I know when you are getting a limit. That is why I made this post. You just follow the trail. I was looking for some other data to support NOT following the trail. Got a couple of hits. If in the end your conclusion is accurate I will totally go with that.. but as Dcowley said... GIVE ME SOME DATA>>> Im talking stopping every hour and doing pressures... is it worth noting.. Maybe too much work.. I get it.

Thats all... and yeah.. I dont like bossy peeps. Thats why I RV... relax..

Have a great day
Sorry, I guess I took your post (#14 in this thread) out of context because I was pretty sure you knew the purpose of a TPMS system so I thought your were trying to be funny. I didn't mean to "shut you down".
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