Popping/creaking when on extended jacks

[VilleDeal]

On my 2017 Hurricane 34J, as did my previous 2018 Ace 29.4, when u walk around inside the unit it sounds like metal to metal popping coming from the suspension. Very annoying. It seems to get better if you re-level, but gradually gets worse and worse. Anyone had the same problem? Anyone found the root cause?

[Travelin' Texans]

Most likely the same leveling system as my last 5th wheel. The techs at the factory recommended using an anti stiction oil in the reservoir. With all jacks up/slides in, if hydraulic, remove 1 quart of the fluid in the reservoir, I used a turkey baster & replace that quart with 15w motorcycle fork oil found at most any cycle shop or Caterpillar hydraulic fluid (cost about 3 times the fork oil) topping off the reservoir to within 1/4-1/2" from the fill opening, then operate the slides/jacks a few times to mix the oil, this will greatly improve or stop the popping/creaking of your jacks. From then on I topped of the reservoir with the fork oil as needed. Be sure all jacks/slides are retracted before topping off the reservoir or be prepared for an oily mess.

[Chateau_Nomad]

The entire motorhome "box" and frame are twisted to some degree when the jacks are lifting a corner. If the auto-leveling feature doesn't take this into account, it can be quite a lot of twisting/torqueing.

I always manually level, and use the following procedure which seems to minimize the twisting/torqueing/creaking of the motorhome structure.

BEFORE extending the slide...

Stabilizing:
Starting with the FRONT, I drop each jack JUST to solid ground contact, but NOT LIFTING the coach. If the coach is unlevel side-to-side, the low-side jack is obviously extended more than the other. Then I repeat the same scenario with the rear jacks. At this point, the coach is STABILIZED, but not level.

Technically, I don't think it matters what jacks you start with; you are NOT trying to lift the frame here... just transferring support of the coach from the suspension to the jacks.

Leveling side-to-side:
For the leveling process, I simultaneously press the FRONT AND REAR buttons on the low-side jacks... raising ONLY the SIDE which is lowest until close to level side-to-side.

Leveling front-to-rear:
For the front-to-rear leveling, depending on which END is LOW, I simultaneously press either both FRONT or both REAR jack buttons until close to level.

Adjustments:
At this point it's close... but almost always needs "fine tuned". From experience, I know about how much to compensate for when the slide is extended... we like our heads a little higher than feet, so technically we're just slightly off level side-to-side, but nearly perfect front-to-rear.

Note that I try to avoid moving the jacks after the slide is extended... although I initially had to do this a few times until I figured out my reference point.

Hope that helps!!

[VilleDeal]

Yes, I only use the manual mode and do it pretty much as you described.
I quit doing the auto level after it sounded as if the dash screws were being pulled/stripped by the twisting of the unit back when I had a FR3. ..The stress on the structure had to be very bad on the components. I was an auto service manager and fully understand twisting and torqueing of the frame & suspension.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

Most likely the same leveling system as my last 5th wheel. The techs at the factory recommended using an anti stiction oil in the reservoir. With all jacks up/slides in, if hydraulic, remove 1 quart of the fluid in the reservoir, I used a turkey baster & replace that quart with 15w motorcycle fork oil found at most any cycle shop or Caterpillar hydraulic fluid (cost about 3 times the fork oil) topping off the reservoir to within 1/4-1/2" from the fill opening, then operate the slides/jacks a few times to mix the oil, this will greatly improve or stop the popping/creaking of your jacks. From then on I topped of the reservoir with the fork oil as needed. Be sure all jacks/slides are retracted before topping off the reservoir or be prepared for an oily mess.

The only time when the frame is wracked (twisted) is when it is totally on the tires. The jacks lift the coach in pairs to remove the wracking moment. When the coach is level, by definitional, there is no wracking of the coach if it is resting on the jacks.
In manual mode the jacks will only lift the coach. In the auto mode, the jacks can be lowered in-order to level the coach a a lower total height.
If it is jacks themselves making the noise, bike fork oil added to the transmission fluid that is normally used will aid in the smoother jack operation as you said.

[Mousemate]

See below from Lippert

[knucklehead]

Originally Posted by Beau388

The only time when the frame is wracked (twisted) is when it is totally on the tires. The jacks lift the coach in pairs to remove the wracking moment. When the coach is level, by definitional, there is no wracking of the coach if it is resting on the jacks.
In manual mode the jacks will only lift the coach. In the auto mode, the jacks can be lowered in-order to level the coach a a lower total height.
If it is jacks themselves making the noise, bike fork oil added to the transmission fluid that is normally used will aid in the smoother jack operation as you said.

I just had my LCI leveling jack pump replaced on my 2018 Thor Windsport 29m after years of beeping, failing, calls to Thor after hours and cussing like HELL!!! It seems now to be working properly so I am very interested in the fork oil additive!!! I was told at Camping World to spray silicone on the exposed jack cylinders before lowering them cause they dry off if they are down for long periods of time to prevent damage to the O-seals. Is this also a good idea??? Bob

[Jimbo56]

I use a pre Teflon based lube on mine when extended for long periods. I level manually and have never heard a popping or cracking sound.

[Vibeman]

Originally Posted by VilleDeal

On my 2017 Hurricane 34J, as did my previous 2018 Ace 29.4, when u walk around inside the unit it sounds like metal to metal popping coming from the suspension. Very annoying. It seems to get better if you re-level, but gradually gets worse and worse. Anyone had the same problem? Anyone found the root cause?

What you describe sounds like movement of the floor caused by the the varying load of your body as you move over it. If it is happening after all jacks are extended and the chassis is level then it probably has no direct connection to your chassis suspension or your hydraulic leveling jacks. Rather it is caused by loose, broken, missing or incorrectly installed fasteners and/or adhesive somewhere, allowing stick/slip motion between the flooring and whatever it is supposed to be attached to. This could be very difficult to identify and even more difficult to correct because the flooring is installed first then the rest of the coach is put on top, hiding many areas. Get someone to closely look/listen/feel, above the floor and below the floor for the sound and slight movement as you move around. Once you have located the area where the sound originates you can assess what might be done to stabilize it.

[Snowbirdbyhart]

What you have described is what I'm also experiencing (creaking noise while jacks are extended). What I've been able to determine is it is a result of a leaky hydraulic system (internally or externally). If the system is sealed properly (100%) with no leakage, the hydraulic cylinders should never leak down (retract) which causes the creaking or popping sounds your hearing. It is inevitable that leaks will occur and the only fix is to find the source of the leak and fix it. You need to inspect the ram seals, connectors, hoses.... For signs of leakage. Mine are leaking at the hose connector fittings at the pump. The fluid shows up between the hose swivel connector nut of three hoses. I tried tightening them to no avail. I even tried transmission sealer in hopes of not having to replace the fittings/hoses. The only fix is to identify the fittings and replace them. My hoses are stretched to there max either requiring an entire hose replacement which will be a PITA to do. The other option is the cut the hose and extend it with new hose and fitting. This would also require the addition of a union fitting and induce another possible place to leak. Unfortunately, I'm just dealing with the noise and placing paper towels at the leaks to catch the fluid. The other source of leak may be internally through the solenoid valve which is a bit harder to determine. First thing to do is to start by looking for signs of leakage. Best of luck!