Axis E450 Coolant temp concern....still

[Ubugarrity]

The coolant gauge on the dash (chassis) seems completely normal. I've added a Scangauge that plugs into the ODB2 port for more monitoring. That gauge reads from 200-214 during regular driving and I've seen it as high as 230. That doesn't seem normal. I've tried a different brand ODB2 gauge and get the same results. Both of those gauges in other vehicles indicate normal coolant temps. Again, no indication of overheating and using a laser thermometer on all components after stopping seems normal.
Anyone else ever notice this or can explain why? I can't imagine that it's normal for the computer to think the temps are so high.




I had posted this concern in the past under a different topic (https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...f53-31837.html)
and it's still driving me crazy when driving.

[ducksface]

Do you have a temp related problem?

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Ubugarrity

The coolant gauge on the dash (chassis) seems completely normal. I've added a Scangauge that plugs into the ODB2 port for more monitoring. That gauge reads from 200-214 during regular driving and I've seen it as high as 230. That doesn't seem normal. I've tried a different brand ODB2 gauge and get the same results. Both of those gauges in other vehicles indicate normal coolant temps. Again, no indication of overheating and using a laser thermometer on all components after stopping seems normal.
Anyone else ever notice this or can explain why? I can't imagine that it's normal for the computer to think the temps are so high.

I had posted this concern in the past under a different topic (https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...f53-31837.html)
and it's still driving me crazy when driving.

A standard coolant mixture of 50 percent water and 50 percent ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 223 degrees. A cooling system using a 15 psi radiator cap will add 45 degrees to the boiling point for a final boiling point of 268 degrees.


The higher the cooling fluid temperature the more efficient an ICE engine is. (better fuel mileage). In the 1960s, a 180 F degree thermostat was common. In the 1990s 210 F degree thermostats became the standard. Newer gas engine have 220 F thermostats.


You could switch to the Evans cooling system. Its boiling point is 375 F degrees.

[Ubugarrity]

Originally Posted by Beau388

A standard coolant mixture of 50 percent water and 50 percent ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 223 degrees. A cooling system using a 15 psi radiator cap will add 45 degrees to the boiling point for a final boiling point of 268 degrees.


The higher the cooling fluid temperature the more efficient an ICE engine is. (better fuel mileage). In the 1960s, a 180 F degree thermostat was common. In the 1990s 210 F degree thermostats became the standard. Newer gas engine have 220 F thermostats.


You could switch to the Evans cooling system. Its boiling point is 375 F degrees.

Thanks. Can you confirm that this engine has a 210 tstat? If that's the case, all is well and I'd feel a lot better. I've spent hours googling this but can't find specific information.
Thanks again

[Ubugarrity]

Originally Posted by ducksface

Do you have a temp related problem?

Other than readings that seem too high to what I'm used to in a vehicle, no. I really don't want to post here that my engine failed and I was getting those high temps for thousands of miles, Id be scalded for ignoring it. It shouldn't be this difficult to figure out. Either it's completely normal and I have an understanding of what temperature I should be concerned, maybe a faulty sensor, maybe a cooling issue somewhere, clogged radiator, etc. Either way, I just want to know now for piece of mind on the road.
Two trips ago the amp gauge on the dash was steady and normal. The volts on the Scangauge were usually steady at 13.9-14.2 volts. Then the voltage started fluctuating from 13.4-14.6 constantly. We stopped at next Walmart and sure enough the chassis battery was completely shot. As soon as we shut the engine and tried to start it, it was completely dead. Swapped out the battery and all was well.

[ducksface]

Maybe, and only maybe, the guage does not read off of the samr sensor the obd does.

I've noticed a difference in the readings but not to the extent you have. Maybe 10° for,me, but I wasn't being particularly aware.

I'll check the next time I fire up the RV.

I think, and this is from memory, my 8.1L GM reads about 20° different trans temp, obd vs guage

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Ubugarrity

Thanks. Can you confirm that this engine has a 210 tstat? If that's the case, all is well and I'd feel a lot better. I've spent hours googling this but can't find specific information.
Thanks again

The stock 2016 V-10 Motorcraft thermostat in my F-53 chassis is a 192 F degree thermostat. That the start opening temperature. I would guess the full open temperature is around 20 degrees higher. I assume the the guys and gals in Windsor, ON that built the V-10s used the same thermostat on all V10 truck engines.


Now note the V-10 thermostat is a two stage design. The engine was made for truck that can carry a heavy load. When the truck is heavenly loaded on a hot day, it uses all the radiators cooling capacity. On a cool day with no load, As the top stage probably stays closed. The second lower stage takes the hot coolant from the cylinder heads and routes it back down to the bottom of the block to aid engine warmup. Once the top thermostat starts to open the bottom thermostat starts to close. This system regulates the temperature withing a 20 degree range whether the truck is empty of carrying 30,000 lbs and it a 100 degree day.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Ubugarrity

The coolant gauge on the dash (chassis) seems completely normal. I've added a Scangauge that plugs into the ODB2 port for more monitoring. That gauge reads from 200-214 during regular driving and I've seen it as high as 230. That doesn't seem normal. I've tried a different brand ODB2 gauge and get the same results. Both of those gauges in other vehicles indicate normal coolant temps. Again, no indication of overheating and using a laser thermometer on all components after stopping seems normal.
Anyone else ever notice this or can explain why? I can't imagine that it's normal for the computer to think the temps are so high.




I had posted this concern in the past under a different topic (https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...f53-31837.html)
and it's still driving me crazy when driving.

Engines running at 220 degrees have been normal for decades.

[Ubugarrity]

As you can read above, I was very concerned about coolant temps above 200. Thanks for all the info and sorry I'm finally getting around to posting an update. So last August, we were staying at Camp Margaritaville in Florida. When it's time to leave a site, I usually start the engine while I make final preparations. (locking compartments, outside inspection, everything stowed, etc) Probably about ten minutes or less. The temperature outside was about 100 and very humid. I did all my checks and got in the driver seat to go,put it in drive and started rolling and I noticed the Red overheat light was on, the dash cluster coolant temp gauge was pinned and the temp on the scangauge was 250. I didn't panic, continued to roll, turned off AC, turned Heat on full blast, downshifted to low and just continued down the road slow. I figured if the temp didn't start dropping immediately, I was in trouble and would see what was going on by the time I got to the exit gate. Not even a couple sites down and the temp started dropping quickly. Seemed like the red warning light went off around 240 and the Cluster gauge was already returning to normal. So we continued through the gate and out on to a road with very little traffic. I upshifted but continued to keep the engine revving higher than normal and the temperature continues to drop about a degree every 2 seconds till it returned to normal. We switched heat back to AC, Shifted to Drive and went on our way. Everything was normal. So I've learned that temps over 200 are normal, the warning light comes on about 240ish, the engine cooling system can't keep up while idling in the heat, the heater and blower in the cab can remove an incredible about of engine heat (miserable for occupants) and all my gauges are working properly.
We continued on a 30 day trip around the country, through temps close to and above 100, with no othere issues. Just figured I'd update in case anyone else had concerns.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Ubugarrity

As you can read above, I was very concerned about coolant temps above 200. Thanks for all the info and sorry I'm finally getting around to posting an update. So last August, we were staying at Camp Margaritaville in Florida. When it's time to leave a site, I usually start the engine while I make final preparations. (locking compartments, outside inspection, everything stowed, etc) Probably about ten minutes or less. The temperature outside was about 100 and very humid. I did all my checks and got in the driver seat to go,put it in drive and started rolling and I noticed the Red overheat light was on, the dash cluster coolant temp gauge was pinned and the temp on the scangauge was 250. I didn't panic, continued to roll, turned off AC, turned Heat on full blast, downshifted to low and just continued down the road slow. I figured if the temp didn't start dropping immediately, I was in trouble and would see what was going on by the time I got to the exit gate. Not even a couple sites down and the temp started dropping quickly. Seemed like the red warning light went off around 240 and the Cluster gauge was already returning to normal. So we continued through the gate and out on to a road with very little traffic. I upshifted but continued to keep the engine revving higher than normal and the temperature continues to drop about a degree every 2 seconds till it returned to normal. We switched heat back to AC, Shifted to Drive and went on our way. Everything was normal. So I've learned that temps over 200 are normal, the warning light comes on about 240ish, the engine cooling system can't keep up while idling in the heat, the heater and blower in the cab can remove an incredible about of engine heat (miserable for occupants) and all my gauges are working properly.
We continued on a 30 day trip around the country, through temps close to and above 100, with no othere issues. Just figured I'd update in case anyone else had concerns.

Thanks for the update.