Automatic levelers "low voltage" error

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by Beau388

Did you read post #31 on this thread?

Yup...read it twice and that's why my question reads like it does...."you mean that...etc etc." But it completely contradicts what Thor told me yesterday....just checking and trying to decide which info is on the money. In other words, if the house batts need to be part of the circuitry for the panel and pump to work and not just the chassis batt (engine batt) by itself . So the generator or the shore power has an effect on the house batts therefore with a full charge on house batts should help eliminate any low voltage error on the panel?

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Golfbum18

Yup...read it twice and that's why my question reads like it does...."you mean that...etc etc." But it completely contradicts what Thor told me yesterday....just checking and trying to decide which info is on the money. In other words, if the house batts need to be part of the circuitry for the panel and pump to work and not just the chassis batt (engine batt) by itself . So the generator or the shore power has an effect on the house batts therefore with a full charge on house batts should help eliminate any low voltage error on the panel?

You can look for the complete wiring diagram showing power from the ignition switch to the electric motor solenoid and operation panel as well as the large cable from the house battery to the electric motor on the LCI site showing "Power Gear Hydraulic Leveling Installation and Service manual 3010001466"

[lwmcguire]

Well you have my curiosity up about where my Jack power comes from

Battery banks are on opposite sides in dedicated compartments with numerous cables going to each

You do have to have the engine running for the Jack's enabled light to come on and the engine chassis battery voltage must be above alarm point

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

Well you have my curiosity up about where my Jack power comes from

Battery banks are on opposite sides in dedicated compartments with numerous cables going to each

You do have to have the engine running for the Jack's enabled light to come on and the engine chassis battery voltage must be above alarm point

You're right...engine must run and brake on for anything to happen in leveling. Where the power comes from still remains confusing. THor tells me it's all up to the chassis batt while other info says house batts play a role. I don't care who is right or wrong, I just want the right info for me.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Golfbum18

You're right...engine must run and brake on for anything to happen in leveling. Where the power comes from still remains confusing. THor tells me it's all up to the chassis batt while other info says house batts play a role. I don't care who is right or wrong, I just want the right info for me.

You've been given the correct info in this forum. For any further proof get in/under the coach and trace the cables back from your hydraulic pump motor.

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

You've been given the correct info in this forum. For any further proof get in/under the coach and trace the cables back from your hydraulic pump motor.

Thanks. I have the bus on shore power right now hoping to get a full charge to get the auto-levelers to stop giving me the low voltage error.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

Well you have my curiosity up about where my Jack power comes from

Battery banks are on opposite sides in dedicated compartments with numerous cables going to each

You do have to have the engine running for the Jack's enabled light to come on and the engine chassis battery voltage must be above alarm point

Power for the jack controller comes from the run side of the ignition switch through a 7 amp inline fuse. There is also an interlock that requires the parking brake set and the transmission in park or neutral (the same logic is used for the engine's starter relay). Yes the jack controller needs to see a minimum of 12.7 to 12.9 volts, otherwise it sets a low voltage flag. There are also two wires the go to the jack's electric motor solenoid. One monitors battery voltage and the other energizes the solenoid. Remember the jacks will still work in the manual mode if the voltage is above about 11.0 volts. If it is below that the panel will not turn on.

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by Beau388

Power for the jack controller comes from the run side of the ignition switch through a 7 amp inline fuse. There is also an interlock that requires the parking brake set and the transmission in park or neutral (the same logic is used for the engine's starter relay). Yes the jack controller needs to see a minimum of 12.7 to 12.9 volts, otherwise it sets a low voltage flag. There are also two wires the go to the jack's electric motor solenoid. One monitors battery voltage and the other energizes the solenoid. Remember the jacks will still work in the manual mode if the voltage is above about 11.0 volts. If it is below that the panel will not turn on.

Thanks for that. I got a copy of the lippert manual and they talk about voltages.....basically, what was said here. They claim a voltage of <9.5 will cease all operations. Anything that low certainly seems it would. This all started when I wanted to run the jacks up and down to release any air in the lines when the fluid was a little low. Never had the low voltage flag before since usually, we had driven for some hours before activating the jacks and had it on shore power the entire day before getting the refrigerators cold. Hopefully, this will work and if a charge isn't up, maybe it's a chassis batt in need of replacement. Can't see the date on it...probably on the backside somewhere. Thanks again.

[TurnerFam]

the confusion usually surround the misunderstanding that the 'leveling' system doesn't just use one battery system, but generally two... the 'panel'/controller is generally powered by the CHASSIS batteries, since it shares a relationship with the ignition/interlock, but the legs themselves are powered by the HOUSE batteries... they demand more power and therefore batteries for the House are generally better to power them, and also because the House batteries are chargeable by the generator and shore power, whereas the Chassis batteries may not be, unless by the alternator while driving.

Chassis batteries are also 'cold cranking' batteries, designed for sudden and quick burst of power, whereas the 'deep discharge' House batteries are better designed for prolonged high draws.

When you see a 'low voltage' alert on the Leveling system, it is typically pointing to the HOUSE battery bank, not the Chassis batteries, even though most leveling systems will still work, even with that 'low voltage' alert, though in Manual mode only, at least until the House battery levels again reach a certain point. This is why many believe that running the generator, or being plugged into shore power, is the best time to level you coach, but that is simply due to the House batteries now receiving a 'charge', and the voltage 'issue' no longer gets in the way.

I use my LCI LEvel UP system all the time, even though it many times says 'Low Voltage'.... I pay little attention to it since I go into Manual mode anyway, which bypasses the alert.
I've even leveled my coach many times without the engine running, or alternator, or shore power, or generator... if the House batteries have enough juice, they have enough juice!

[TurnerFam]

I can also imagine that Thor's new 'Lithium' powered coaches of the future, as in the latest TUSCANY prototype, will do away will all of this 'which battery bank' powers what... the Lithium power plant will be doing it all!

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

the confusion usually surround the misunderstanding that the 'leveling' system doesn't just use one battery system, but generally two... the 'panel'/controller is generally powered by the CHASSIS batteries, since it shares a relationship with the ignition/interlock, but the legs themselves are powered by the HOUSE batteries... they demand more power and therefore batteries for the House are generally better to power them, and also because the House batteries are chargeable by the generator and shore power, whereas the Chassis batteries may not be, unless by the alternator while driving.

Chassis batteries are also 'cold cranking' batteries, designed for sudden and quick burst of power, whereas the 'deep discharge' House batteries are better designed for prolonged high draws.

When you see a 'low voltage' alert on the Leveling system, it is typically pointing to the HOUSE battery bank, not the Chassis batteries, even though most leveling systems will still work, even with that 'low voltage' alert, though in Manual mode only, at least until the House battery levels again reach a certain point. This is why many believe that running the generator, or being plugged into shore power, is the best time to level you coach, but that is simply due to the House batteries now receiving a 'charge', and the voltage 'issue' no longer gets in the way.

I use my LCI LEvel UP system all the time, even though it many times says 'Low Voltage'.... I pay little attention to it since I go into Manual mode anyway, which bypasses the alert.
I've even leveled my coach many times without the engine running, or alternator, or shore power, or generator... if the House batteries have enough juice, they have enough juice!

Thanks for this excellent description and further clarification. Well said and understood. As I said, I never used the jacks for leveling until I wanted to push some air from the lines after some low fluid that I didn't catch in time. I have it on shore power. I did use the manual levelers to do what I intended to run them a few cycles. That brought me to this issue which now seems clearer. My other concern was that the chassis batt was needing replacement, and will at some point. My house batts are 1/18 so should be good for the future but as stated, I cant' see a date on the chassis batt.
So the panel etc is usually run from the chassis while the work of actual up and down is the job of the house batts. I will be bookmarking this thread in that there seems to be a lot of confusion, among those parties, Thor, on just what goes on. Again thanks to all for the comments adn responses and the forum comes through again.

[TurnerFam]

true, when you call into Thor, or any manufacturer for that matter, even a RV dealer or shop, they may misinterpret your original concern as one of the PANEL, itself, which, yes, is powered by the Chassis batteries, ignition, etc. You may be meaning one thing, but they are thinking another. While they are 'correct' for part of it, they may not understand that you are questioning the 'legs' part of the equation.

I would suspect that many who answer the phones and emails there are fantastic, and knowledgeable, but it's easy in the RV world to 'mis hear' or 'mis interpret' someone's concerns...though I think most of the time they get it right on.

RVs are amazing 'machines', but are also laden with many different systems and many different products and pieces from differing manufacturers, that all have to come together to create the RV... it's a wonder sometimes that they actually DO work!


also, don't assume your Chassis batteries have any issues - it may have just been a one-time occurrence ... our's have been in our coach for over 5 1/2 years, and it cranks everytime, even for a diesel!

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

true, when you call into Thor, or any manufacturer for that matter, even a RV dealer or shop, they may misinterpret your original concern as one of the PANEL, itself, which, yes, is powered by the Chassis batteries, ignition, etc. You may be meaning one thing, but they are thinking another. While they are 'correct' for part of it, they may not understand that you are questioning the 'legs' part of the equation.

I would suspect that many who answer the phones and emails there are fantastic, and knowledgeable, but it's easy in the RV world to 'mis hear' or 'mis interpret' someone's concerns...though I think most of the time they get it right on.

RVs are amazing 'machines', but are also laden with many different systems and many different products and pieces from differing manufacturers, that all have to come together to create the RV... it's a wonder sometimes that they actually DO work!


also, don't assume your Chassis batteries have any issues - it may have just been a one-time occurrence ... our's have been in our coach for over 5 1/2 years, and it cranks everytime, even for a diesel!

Thanks again Mr. Turner. I think Thor does a pretty good job with the Q & A they deal with. And you're right about the interpretation of a question. RVs are, as you say, very complicated pieces of machinery. Everyone deals with problems of the family vehicle, car, truck whatever and of course, everyone deals with problems as home owners or whatever type of dwelling you reside in but....here we have a house and a vehicle and ALL the problems that go with each or either. And our homes are not being constantly dragged over some of the worst roads and interstates in the country. Our chassis batt is a Motorcraft which is the standard Ford product for a V10. Even when sitting for a few weeks, it has no trouble turning over, which isn't always an indicator of vitality but usually a fairly good one. I try to start it up at least weekly when not in use so again, thanks for the comments....well taken. Seems like the learning curve never ends on these critters.

[Beau388]

The best indication of the chassis power is when the coach sits for a couple days without power dose the step work correctly? Of course a voltmeter attached to the accessory circuit of the ignition is the best indication of the chassis battery.

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by Beau388

The best indication of the chassis power is when the coach sits for a couple days without power dose the step work correctly? Of course a voltmeter attached to the accessory circuit of the ignition is the best indication of the chassis battery.

I have a voltmeter and might do some checking in a week or so. The good news, after a few hours on shore, the panel read 13.5 volts and the auto level and retract worked fine. Thanks for all the help to you and everyone in straightening out this issue of what batts do what.
Have a good week...safe travels,

[Wolf8U]

We had the same issue the day we brought home our 2016 Hurricane 34F, It took me two weeks of researching the issue. Nothing would cycle through, even resetting the system did not help. So I did the jacks manually outside with a drill and a wrench. First extended all jacks to the ground with a little lift of the coach. second I retracted all jacks to full retract position. Went inside the coach, the error was gone and has not returned since. unless you just start the coach and turn the jacks on, all you do then is turn off and back on, jacks ready always shows now.

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by Wolf8U

We had the same issue the day we brought home our 2016 Hurricane 34F, It took me two weeks of researching the issue. Nothing would cycle through, even resetting the system did not help. So I did the jacks manually outside with a drill and a wrench. First extended all jacks to the ground with a little lift of the coach. second I retracted all jacks to full retract position. Went inside the coach, the error was gone and has not returned since. unless you just start the coach and turn the jacks on, all you do then is turn off and back on, jacks ready always shows now.

Sometimes you need a BFH.....in this case, it was a drill. LOL Hopefully, we both got rid of our problems.

[Wrpt58]

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002366.pdf

LCI manual for 4-jack, 3-valve hydraulic leveling system link.
I had trouble with the low voltage error, called LCI tech line, and got a good primer on theses and the side slide system.

Just trying to help,
Recie

[Golfbum18]

Originally Posted by Wrpt58

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002366.pdf

LCI manual for 4-jack, 3-valve hydraulic leveling system link.
I had trouble with the low voltage error, called LCI tech line, and got a good primer on theses and the side slide system.

Just trying to help,
Recie

The last email I got from Lippert told me that the chassis batt is the only one that affects the leveling system. I think we have found on this thread that that's not the fact and the house batts, when charged, will give you over 13 volts...more than enough to run the system in auto. With the chassis batt alone, you seldom get above 12.7 (during storage) and that's borderline. I didn't bother to argue with the guy since I found the LV prob and played with it for a week and finally, plugged into shore power, left all batts charge and it worked fine. One member said all you have to do is follow the power cables from the house batts to the leveling control panel to know they are part of the system. Some confusion over at Lippert I suspect.

[TurnerFam]

sometimes it's just semantics, as yes, the leveling system is CONTROLLED by the controller, which gets IT'S power from the Chassis battery, due to it's ignition interlock/override, but the POWER to the levelers, themselves, are from the House batteries.

somewhat akin to your STARTER being powered by your vehicle's Battery, yet the ENGINE it started is powered by FUEL.