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Old 03-29-2020, 02:31 PM   #21
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Thanks a lot
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Old 04-01-2020, 07:03 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bevedfelker View Post
For batteries to charge -- the USE/STOE switch MUST be in the USE position. When it is in STORE no charging current from the converter is being sent to the batteries.

So, when you are connected to shore power, when the generator is running, or when you are driving down the road be sure the USE/STORE switch is in USE.
When I'm plugged into shore power the light on the MAIN POWER switch is on/lit, how do I know if it's in the USE position?
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Old 04-01-2020, 07:17 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by largejoe13 View Post
When I'm plugged into shore power the light on the MAIN POWER switch is on/lit, how do I know if it's in the USE position?
You can use a volt meter to check the voltage at the house batteries to check the position of the relay. If the voltage is above 13.0 volts, your house batteries are charging. If no volt meter then you have to disconnect shore power to check the position of the latching relay. With the shore power removed, if the interior lights in the coach will come on, then you have battery power. The light in the master power switch will be on also be on. Notice: if the light in the master power is on and you depress the master power switch, the light will go off indicating the latching relay and the master power switch are working as installed.
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:50 PM   #24
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Batt

I am far from being an expert on batteries but it sure is good to see someone on here that knows about ,electrolyte vs acid and specific gravity and charging temperature.
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
If the battery is about 80% charged (by electrolyte's specific gravity) a three stage converter will automatically switch to a float charge (maintenance). The actual voltage is tally dependent on the temperature of the charger (or batteries if a battery temperature monitor is installed). The float voltage can vary from 13.1 volts @ 30 F degrees to 13.6 @ 80 F degrees for 12 volt flooded batteries. The minimum voltage needed to charge a battery is dependent on the batteries temperature. A fully charged 12 volt battery will show about 12.8 volts resting (sitting for 30 minutes with neither being charged or discharged). Because of the batteries internal resistance it takes about 0.50 volts to move current into a charged battery. Equalization is overcharging a battery to stir-up the electrolyte by boiling out the water in the battery. This is never necessary unless the battery sits for a long time. De-sulfation is a contentious subject at best; whether it works or not seem to be dependent on the charge's manufacturer. Sulfation only occurs when a battery is not fully charged. If it is discharged slowly and recharged the next day little sulfation will occur.
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Old 04-01-2020, 11:34 PM   #25
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Thor batt

I two am having problems with the House Batt . I figured out how to overcome it . I haved burned up 2 batteries so far , they over charge and boil the water out . I have replaced the charger and it does no good .
Leaving the shore line plugged in and disconnecting the house battery but other than the battery not charging is there other problems that might occur? I need to keep the refrigerator on.

It was refreshing to read that someone knows about electrolyte VS acid and specific gravity and charging temperature
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Old 04-01-2020, 11:53 PM   #26
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2016 Axis 24... on board charger performs fine for the coach batteries however, the BIN /bird will not charge the chassis battery even when the coach batteries are at 13 plus volts. So....I use my Sears auto shutoff portable charger on the chassis battery 24/7, otherwise it will discharge in 4 days, this procedure does the trick as we can be ready to head out in a jiffy.
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:45 PM   #27
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My rv when plugged into shore power it automatically turns on the "main power". I don't want the main power relay on all winter. I use an extension cord and 2 battery tenders for the house and coach batteries also I check water levels in the house batteries before we start traveling.
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:54 PM   #28
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My rv when plugged into shore power it automatically turns on the "main power". I don't want the main power relay on all winter. I use an extension cord and 2 battery tenders for the house and coach batteries also I check water levels in the house batteries before we start traveling.
I tried a 1000 miliamp tender on just the chassis battery and it wouldn't maintain, it has since been used on the mower & side by side batteries and does fine. Curious about your choice thanks
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:57 PM   #29
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My rv when plugged into shore power it automatically turns on the "main power". I don't want the main power relay on all winter. I use an extension cord and 2 battery tenders for the house and coach batteries also I check water levels in the house batteries before we start traveling.
No, it doesn't. When plugged in the converter supplies power to the DC buss which lights the "indicating" light on your USE/STORE (Main Disconnect) switch. It does not change the position of the latching relay. The light is NOT an indication of the position of your USE/STORE (Battery disconnect) relay.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Bill Barber View Post
2016 Axis 24... on board charger performs fine for the coach batteries however, the BIN /bird will not charge the chassis battery even when the coach batteries are at 13 plus volts. So....I use my Sears auto shutoff portable charger on the chassis battery 24/7, otherwise it will discharge in 4 days, this procedure does the trick as we can be ready to head out in a jiffy.
My 2016 Axis did not charge the chassis battery under generator or shore power either. It turned out that the BIRD was wired incorrectly at the factory. It was a simple fix of cutting and moving one wire. I posted my fix in 2016 and it should still be back there, if you are handy with a volt meter and understand basic wiring.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:12 PM   #31
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Our Axis doesn't go into maintain mode. Our previous 5th wheel Dutchman Voltage did not either. From what I have read most don't.
Thanks a lot
That's because you only read when people have problems. So "most" work correctly, but people don't post about their converter working correctly.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:35 PM   #32
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I'm researching Oneilky posts this evening ( spell?) Thanks for your help
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:11 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
That's because you only read when people have problems. So "most" work correctly, but people don't post about their converter working correctly.
You are absolutely right.

When my batteries are fully charged the onboard charger still charges at 13.6. Both house and chassis batteries.

Thanks
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:14 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Oneilkeys View Post
My 2016 Axis did not charge the chassis battery under generator or shore power either. It turned out that the BIRD was wired incorrectly at the factory. It was a simple fix of cutting and moving one wire. I posted my fix in 2016 and it should still be back there, if you are handy with a volt meter and understand basic wiring.
I could only get back to 2018 posts...rats wish you had videoed cutting and moving one wire !
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:30 PM   #35
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I tried a 1000 miliamp tender on just the chassis battery and it wouldn't maintain, it has since been used on the mower & side by side batteries and does fine. Curious about your choice thanks
I am using a Schumacher 1.5a maintainer on the house and a cheapo on the coach
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:32 PM   #36
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I am using a Schumacher 1.5a maintainer on the house and a cheapo on the coach
Thank you very much
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:25 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Bill Barber View Post
I could only get back to 2018 posts...rats wish you had videoed cutting and moving one wire !
If you have a BIRD/Trombetta in your 2016 like I did.

In the picture, the BIRD is to the right of the Trombetta (I will send a picture separately ( along with a troubleshooting page). On the Trombetta the left big red wire was to the coach batteries
And the right to the chassis battery. You can check that by checking the voltage on either the chassis or coach batteries and match that to either Trombetta post. (
(See next post)
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:33 PM   #38
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In my system, the BIRD was miswired at the factory. And shore power/generator did not charge the chassis battery because the correct voltage from the coach batteries did not get to the BIRD so it never told the Trombetta to open.

As you can see in the picture of the BIRD, it lists the color of the wires that go to the different locations. My simple solution was to cut the red wire coming out of the BIRD and connect it directly to the left (as you are looking at it from the front) post of the Trombetta. The system worked perfectly after that.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:39 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by sandrooney View Post
Thanks petefoss. The onboard charger doesn't cut off when the battery is charged and that just doesn't seem right and I don't believe a tender will boil the water out.
It is designed to provide 12 volt power AND charge the battery when plug in to shore power. Don't try to reinvent the wheel.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:40 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Oneilkeys View Post
In my system, the BIRD was miswired at the factory. And the engine did not charge the house batteries because the correct voltage from the coach batteries did not get to the BIRD so it never told the Trombetta to open.

As you can see in the picture of the BIRD, it lists the color of the wires that go to the different locations. My simple solution was to cut the red wire coming out of the BIRD and connect it directly to the left (as you are looking at it from the front) post of the Trombetta. The system worked perfectly after that.
SHUT, In electrical terminology when a breaker/switch/relay etc is SHUT it allows current flow. When it is OPEN (as in Open Circuit) no current flows.
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