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Old 07-12-2020, 07:38 PM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 35m
State: North Carolina
Posts: 861
THOR #13505
We are driving to SC to hang out on lake. It is 95 degrees outside and stupid high humify. we have engine ac running, generator running and both ac units running. barely keeping us cool!

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Old 07-14-2020, 11:31 AM   #22
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State: Missouri
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THOR #6903
All the newer larger coaches and campers require a minimum of 2 AC units during hot weather if no shade is available

40 or more feet 3 is nice
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Old 07-14-2020, 01:51 PM   #23
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Model: Forest River Forester 235
State: Indiana
Posts: 4,883
THOR #6826
If you have a regular roof vent in the bedroom you can replace it with a second rooftop AC. Choose a “non-ducted” model and figure out how to route the wire through the ceiling and down a wall to the basement where you need to add a 20A circuit breaker and a power inlet (the opposite of an outlet so you can plug in the female end of an extension cord). Then you connect to the 20A outlet on the park pedestal. You also can use Wiremold surface wiring if you are not able to fish wires. If you can do the work yourself it should cost about $800. Twice that if you hire it done. In the meantime a portable AC from a big box store will do the job for about $300. That’s what we use and we only bring it along when we know temps will be above 95. It’s a bit clunky looking but it covers the heat in the day and the single rooftop unit is entirely adequate when the sun goes down. Other thing that helps is to bring in the slides during the day as there is less volume to cool and less surface area exposed to the sun. And then just be glad you aren’t tent camping!
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Old 07-18-2020, 05:17 AM   #24
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Model: Thor Magnitude XG32 4x4,
State: Utah
Posts: 192
THOR #19682
I live in the desert and we get 110 often. I bought a portable ac unit 10,000 btu 110v and chose a window to make the heat vent to. That $400 option works if you have room in your unit. The most RV AC’s seem to do is about 20 degrees cooler than outside. Also if the unit is heat soaked from not being in use start the ac when it is cool in the am and leave it on so all the walls and such stay morning cool. It is hard to cool off when even the couch radiates heat.
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Old 07-18-2020, 08:59 AM   #25
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Brand: Keystone
Model: Sprinter
State: Florida
Posts: 1,422
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Originally Posted by Jaydiddy View Post
I asked the dealer about this and they said it couldn’t be done. So, you just run and extension cord off of the roof or is it a window unit?
No window unit. You buy a second roof top unit with the controls mounted right on the bottom of the unit. The controls on the unit model (Like a window unit) keeps you from having to run wire down to a t-stat you would have to by also. You replace a roof vent with the new unit. You get creative at this point. You run wiremold across the ceiling to a closet location so you can run 12 ga. Romex wire across the ceiling and down thru the closet and thru base cabinets if need be to a location where you can drill a hole in the floor and poke the wire out under the unit. Put a male 120 volt 20 amp male plug on the end if it. Now you buy a 50' 12 GA extension cord and plug it in at the ped. After you have done all that you hang a curtain behind the driver and passenger seat. You buy a outside shade for the front windshield. You then have the RV windows tinted.
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Old 07-18-2020, 09:03 AM   #26
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Brand: Keystone
Model: Sprinter
State: Florida
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
If you have a regular roof vent in the bedroom you can replace it with a second rooftop AC. Choose a “non-ducted” model and figure out how to route the wire through the ceiling and down a wall to the basement where you need to add a 20A circuit breaker and a power inlet (the opposite of an outlet so you can plug in the female end of an extension cord). Then you connect to the 20A outlet on the park pedestal. You also can use Wiremold surface wiring if you are not able to fish wires. If you can do the work yourself it should cost about $800. Twice that if you hire it done. In the meantime a portable AC from a big box store will do the job for about $300. That’s what we use and we only bring it along when we know temps will be above 95. It’s a bit clunky looking but it covers the heat in the day and the single rooftop unit is entirely adequate when the sun goes down. Other thing that helps is to bring in the slides during the day as there is less volume to cool and less surface area exposed to the sun. And then just be glad you aren’t tent camping!
No need for a circuit breaker in the RV. The new circuit is protected by the 20 amp breaker in the PED. No need for redundant breakers.
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Old 08-03-2020, 05:47 PM   #27
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Model: Thor Magnitude XG32 4x4,
State: Utah
Posts: 192
THOR #19682
I should have cleared up what i meant, I bought a rolling portable unit, with a tube that vents the hot air out through a window. it was easy to make the window adapter for the window. I can move it to the bedroom or use it in the living area, same size windows.
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Old 08-03-2020, 06:22 PM   #28
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Model: Gemini 24TX (Formerly)
State: California
Posts: 1,459
THOR #5821
Problem with virtually all RV's, the walls are about an inch thick, and you can only get so much insulation in. When the RV is parked in direct sun, it heats like a car parked in the sun, so typically the AC's supplied can't cope. I had a 41 foot Tiffin, with two AC's, it was marginal in very hot weather. The Gemini, I added a second AC, matched the one that it had, connected it to the existing ductwork, and powered it via a second 30 amp circuit with the plug right next to the existing 30 amp plug. Then bought Y connector cable, that connected to a 50 amp cable, so I could plug into 50 amp service and powered it all. Significantly better in hot weather, but they can be noisey.
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Old 08-03-2020, 07:41 PM   #29
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
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Problem with virtually all RV's, the walls are about an inch thick, and you can only get so much insulation in. .....cut.....
Not only the thin walls, but the aluminum framing sandwiched between inner and outer wall surfaces also transfer a lot of heat. You can often see this when condensation forms on outer skin on warm and humid mornings.

Also, single pane windows don’t help, particularly when designers keep making them larger or more numerous to improve natural light and feeling of openness.

And slides require more cooling also. They add more surface area and probably contribute to air leaks.

A single 13,500 to 15,000 BTUH RV A/C doesn’t go very far on a hot day on larger RVs. The numbers don’t support it, and experience confirms it’s not enough on hot and humid days.
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Old 08-03-2020, 09:39 PM   #30
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Model: Forest River Forester 235
State: Indiana
Posts: 4,883
THOR #6826
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
No need for a circuit breaker in the RV. The new circuit is protected by the 20 amp breaker in the PED. No need for redundant breakers.


Unless you’re using an adapter on the 30 or 50 amp connection because the 20amp breaker on the pedestal is broken. The pedestal breaker is there to protect the campground wiring. If you care about your coach you’ll put a breaker in your new service. Costs about $25
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Old 08-03-2020, 11:56 PM   #31
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 29M
State: Texas
Posts: 2,672
THOR #11781
I almost bought a 30 amp version of my coach with 1 A/C. My old coach was a 30 foot class c with one 15,000 btu rooftop. It did okay on hot summer days in Texas. When we looked at our current coach it had one 13,500 btu rooftop and it was hot as Hades in early May. The salesmen said he had a 50 amp version with 2 units and it was comfortable. We went with that one and once summer came wished we had 3 units. We added those camco vent pillows and a layer of insulation in the skylight. The wife made new black out curtains for the cab area and curtains for all the other windows. Now we can park in sunny campsites and as long as we have 50 amp service and short pants, we are okay. But I don't think modern coaches are as well insulated as some older ones.
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:45 AM   #32
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 25.2
State: Colorado
Posts: 217
THOR #15515
My 25.2 Axis came with 1-15,000 BTU AC and I added a 13,500 BTU in the vent hole in the rear of the RV and am glad I did. We have been in high 90's to 100 with high humidity and have been just fine. I start the generator and the main AC about an hour before we get the CG. Let it run while hooking up and then turn on the second AC. Usually only have to run the second AC for an hour or two and then all is cooled down and the main one does the job after that. I installed it myself. Found AC on sale IIRC for around $650.00. I had about $700.00 in it when done and took me maybe 4 or 5 hours. Just my experience.
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Old 08-15-2020, 01:47 AM   #33
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Four Winds 31W
State: Illinois
Posts: 95
THOR #7230
I want to add the second roof ac unit in the rear bedroom vent opening. Our Class C only has one 13.5 unit for a 32’ rv... what brand of ac unit have you guys added. What brand is the most quiet.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:45 AM   #34
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Model: Axis 25.2
State: Colorado
Posts: 217
THOR #15515
I installed a Coleman. I had a Dometic in my previous RV and both made about the same amount of noise.
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:38 PM   #35
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Missouri
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THOR #6903
On my former 5th wheel I installed a Dometic which worked well

If height is important then go with a low profile unit
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:51 PM   #36
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Elite
State: Florida
Posts: 44
THOR #18888
No Joke

I want a tent/shelter to park mine under. Has anyone done that? Serious question.
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