Class A Leveling

[Richard]

Have a Class A with Liebert Hydraulic automatic leveling system. Need to level at uneven spot. Rear is about 4” lower than front. Left side is about 3” lower than right side.
Questions:
1. As the jacks are lowered prior to start of leveling, does the system compensate for the uneven terrain? I know that the jacks move in tandem when leveling starts. But is there a compensation for differences until jacks reach start of leveling point? Note: Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point. There is a difference between front to back and side to side. It is note the same on the front and back. Front jacks would need to compensate about 2” left to right. Rear would be about 3” left to right plus the 4” front to back. Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point.
2. If the system does not compensate, then do I need to block under the jack pads, the wheels or both?

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Richard

Have a Class A with Liebert Hydraulic automatic leveling system. Need to level at uneven spot. Rear is about 4” lower than front. Left side is about 3” lower than right side.
Questions:
1. As the jacks are lowered prior to start of leveling, does the system compensate for the uneven terrain? I know that the jacks move in tandem when leveling starts. But is there a compensation for differences until jacks reach start of leveling point? Note: Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point. There is a difference between front to back and side to side. It is note the same on the front and back. Front jacks would need to compensate about 2” left to right. Rear would be about 3” left to right plus the 4” front to back. Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point.
2. If the system does not compensate, then do I need to block under the jack pads, the wheels or both?

I use “manual mod”. I do have to use blocks sometimes when the site is really uneven. It takes a little time but when I am done all the jacks are extended about the same.

[EA37TS]

Wether you Auto level or manual level is a matter of personal preference and nothing more. There are no studies that I am aware of that say one is better than the other so it is all personal opinion. I will say that with the Lippert system that was on the Challenger Auto level was very jerky during the leveling process. The Equalizer Smart EQ system that is on my current rig is so smooth that at times you don't know it is doing anything.

The system will compensate if the coach is lower front to back or side to side. If the slope is too great the system will give an error message and tell you the coach cannot be levelled. In the two instances I have had this happen I moved the coach a foot or two and the system then leveled. In the second case moving the coach did not work so I asked for and got a site that wasn't as uneven.

[Bob Denman]

If the front to rear, or side to side differences are large enough: it doesn't hurt to "level the playing field" with some blocks.
And I agree: the Equalizer system is as smooth as melted butter!

[Richard]

Do I need to block the wheels, the jacks or both?

[Bob Denman]

Well... never block the jacks.
And I'll admit that I don't block the wheels either.

[EA37TS]

Disclaimer: This my opinion only and I am not an expert.

If you have to use blocks to correct an out of level situation you should probably block both the wheels and jacks. If you block the wheels without the jacks you could run into a situation where the jack shafts are too short to level the coach. If you block jacks only you could cause the jacks to lift the wheels off the ground and that is a problem if the rear wheels are lifted off the ground negating the parking brake.

Your Venetian is a heavy rig so if you are going to block one you should consider blocking both.

Again, the opinion of a non-expert.

[Bob Denman]

I took "block", and thought "chock".
Forget what I said...

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Richard

Have a Class A with Liebert Hydraulic automatic leveling system. Need to level at uneven spot. Rear is about 4” lower than front. Left side is about 3” lower than right side.
Questions:
1. As the jacks are lowered prior to start of leveling, does the system compensate for the uneven terrain? I know that the jacks move in tandem when leveling starts. But is there a compensation for differences until jacks reach start of leveling point? Note: Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point. There is a difference between front to back and side to side. It is note the same on the front and back. Front jacks would need to compensate about 2” left to right. Rear would be about 3” left to right plus the 4” front to back. Right front is highest point and left rear is lowest point.
2. If the system does not compensate, then do I need to block under the jack pads, the wheels or both?

Assuming you have Lippert Power Gear jack system and not air leveling - The jacks do extend singly until grounded (300 psi manifold pressure). After all jacks are grounded, the auto level sequence or manual is started, the jacks move in pairs with a common pressure. The common pressure to the jacks ensures the frame is not twisted during lift. The lifting prohibition is the wheels should always be in contact with the ground. Most of us take that to mean both rear tires should be in contact with the ground. The reason for that is with mechanical parking brake on some gas coaches is located on the differential housing. With air brakes, I suppose it would not matter if one rear wheel was off the ground. Generally (assuming the system is properly installed) if the jacks cannot extend sufficiently to level the coach, the auto function is disabled but the manual system will still work. If the jacks are over extended in manual, you risk over pressurizing the system and can burst a hose or damage a jack seal.

[abjbrtd]

Sounds like your automatic set point is OFF, recalibrate it and retest.

You can download the lippert manual at
https://support.lci1.com/motorized-standard-leveling


Here's the instructions for 2009 to present

Level Zero Point Calibration
Before auto leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the
system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be
fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the
desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1.
Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2.
Perform the following:
A. Press the Front switch 5 times.
B. Press the Rear switch 5 times.
3.
At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4.
You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5.
With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference
point for the Zero Point Configuration.
6.
When coach is completely leveled, manually press the Retract All switch 3 times to set the zero point.
For Diesel Units with Airbag Suspensions ONLY:
NOTE: You may also enter zero mode per above at anytime the system is in IDLE mode. The user then has
control to extend any pair of jacks while in zero mode in order to position the vehicle properly prior
to programming.

[challenger37]

Are there any particular blocks for motorhomes? We have 2 sets we used for a 5th wheel and a trailer. The motorhome is so much heavier that I wondered if the orange blocks could take the weight. I didn't think I needed them until I talked to Thor customer service and they were adamant that all wheels stay on the ground. Now I wonder what the levelers do, but then I'm new to the motorhome scene. I will probably find all this stuff out, I hope with forum knowledge and not the hard way.

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by challenger37

Are there any particular blocks for motorhomes? We have 2 sets we used for a 5th wheel and a trailer. The motorhome is so much heavier that I wondered if the orange blocks could take the weight. I didn't think I needed them until I talked to Thor customer service and they were adamant that all wheels stay on the ground. Now I wonder what the levelers do, but then I'm new to the motorhome scene. I will probably find all this stuff out, I hope with forum knowledge and not the hard way.

I always used the orange LEGO blocks or 2 x 8 blocks that I cut from scrap lumber.

[Richard]

Thanks Beau. Very good reply. Answered my question on what happens when jacks are lowered. And appreciate reminder on rear wheel breaks

[Richard]

I use 2 x 10’s cut to 2’ length. Motorhome will crush most of the plastic block pads.

[Richard]

To abjbtrd. Thanks for info. Auto set point is fine. Works like a champ every time on reasonably level surface. It’s 4” front to rear with side tilt being the issue.

[Richard]

Dave... thanks. And the all important reminder of the old safety brakes on rear wheels.

[brucev]

I quit using the auto level some time ago. Seems it would try and try and most of the time either have a couple wheels off the ground and others it would give up. I use the manual system with Level Mate pro and it is so simple and even adjusts for the weight of the slide.



There are some good videos about manual leveling. Try both and see which one you prefer.



Good luck and safe travels.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by brucev

I quit using the auto level some time ago. Seems it would try and try and most of the time either have a couple wheels off the ground and others it would give up. I use the manual system with Level Mate pro and it is so simple and even adjusts for the weight of the slide.



There are some good videos about manual leveling. Try both and see which one you prefer.



Good luck and safe travels.

Seasoned RV owners can manual level closer to the ground and faster than auto level any day

[EVMIII]

I believe I can consistently level lower to the ground manually. Auto level works and will level the rig, but if it requires significant leveling I think it starts too high. Auto level takes a dozen adjustments for every one I make manually.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by EVMIII

I believe I can consistently level lower to the ground manually. Auto level works and will level the rig, but if it requires significant leveling I think it starts too high. Auto level takes a dozen adjustments for every one I make manually.

I agree. It took me some time to learn how but now I never use auto.