Front Axle Hub Cap Removal

[Papabill01!]

Any one have an idea on how to remove the front hubcaps on a Thor Windsport Class A?
Dropped a TPMS sensor behind the Hubcap and need to know which lug nuts are real or fake.

Didn't think to have the service tech tell me last year when I had a blow out how to tell the difference.






2020 Thor Windsport 29M
Retired

[ducksface]

I don't know about the hubcap, but tell us about the blow out.
Some here are scared stiff of one and maybe a first-person story would get them at ease or justify their driving habits...either one or the other.

[Sappy2]

If those are simulators, tap on each fake lug with the wrench. The ones that sound solid are the ones to remove (should only be two - opposite each other).

[16ACE27]

The real ones turn, the fake ones do not.

I think the real ones have dimples on the side but just look where the lug nut contacts the wheel simulator. The fake ones will NOT have an interface separation, the fake ones are continuous with no visible interface.

[Papabill01!]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I don't know about the hubcap, but tell us about the blow out.
Some here are scared stiff of one and maybe a first-person story would get them at ease or justify their driving habits...either one or the other.

The blowout occurred at the ford dealer while I was having an oil change done. Cant prove it but I suspect the technician caused it. ie adding air to tires. Just had my second oil change done; took the wife with and she wanton to the service desk while i watched the coach. Told the ervicetech to skip airing the tires because I had a TPMS system on them...

Papabill01!

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Papabill01!

The blowout occurred at the ford dealer while I was having an oil change done. Cant prove it but I suspect the technician caused it. ie adding air to tires. Just had my second oil change done; took the wife with and she wanton to the service desk while i watched the coach. Told the ervicetech to skip airing the tires because I had a TPMS system on them...

Papabill01!

LOL 😂
A blow out while standing still
I guess no need for Safe T Plus steering stabilizer in your case

[Papabill01!]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

LOL 😂
A blow out while standing still
I guess no need for Safe T Plus steering stabilizer in your case

True but one is getting installed May 2 along with several other suspension upgrades.

[CactusJuice]

You need a socket wrench. I forget the size. The simulators with the "dimple" cover bolts that are on the lug nuts and hold the cover on. Put the socket over the simulator and crank. They may be tighter than you expect them to be (mine were).

[Papabill01!]

Originally Posted by CactusJuice

You need a socket wrench. I forget the size. The simulators with the "dimple" cover bolts that are on the lug nuts and hold the cover on. Put the socket over the simulator and crank. They may be tighter than you expect them to be (mine were).

thanks for the info; the calipers will give me the socket size.... appears to be 19 0r 18 mm.

[knucklehead]

Originally Posted by Papabill01!

Any one have an idea on how to remove the front hubcaps on a Thor Windsport Class A?
Dropped a TPMS sensor behind the Hubcap and need to know which lug nuts are real or fake.

Didn't think to have the service tech tell me last year when I had a blow out how to tell the difference.






2020 Thor Windsport 29M
Retired

If you got it new there should be a little wrench in your warranty bag. It's to remove the 3 lug nuts that a fake. Like to others have told you, they have dimples and that's all that holds on the chrome wheel cover. If you don't have the wrench just use the right size socket; Bob Trice

[Byron12]

Just have someone be next to the tire while someone else moves slightly forward or backwards until the sensor comes to an opening. I did the same exact thing and cussed a lot.

[lspotho]

I realize this is not what the issue was, but - I got RID of my simulators after too many problems and lesser annoyances.

One came loose twice just before entering Canada from Washington state (we were headed for Alaska). The braided metallic air hoses were the only thing holding the simulator on! Found a tire shop where they used some plastic ties to strap the air hoses to the wheel to keep from them flopping on that side.

Had another problem like Papabill01 a few years later - I dropped a front tire's ordinary valve cap that proceeded to disappear inside the simulator.

Down with simulators! Inside under the front simulator was a good-looking Mercedes Benz logo. And it doesn't fall off.

Dan

[lmichel]

Originally Posted by CactusJuice

You need a socket wrench. I forget the size. The simulators with the "dimple" cover bolts that are on the lug nuts and hold the cover on. Put the socket over the simulator and crank. They may be tighter than you expect them to be (mine were).

Well, actually, I can get them to turn about a 16th.
Is there a secret to getting the simulator nuts off?
I know that the ones with the little dimples are the real ones.
There are two per rear wheel (235/80R22.5). I've really jammed one of them up TIGHT! Doing the other three carefully, I can get them to move just a crack and no more. I can then go back the other way and get them to crack back. Repeating this process at least a dozen times (with PB Blaster) doesn't seem to gain me any ground. I forced the first one and now it won't move either way. I'm using the special tool and a 16" pipe and I really think if I put anymore on it, something will break - maybe even the weld on the special "T" tool!
Do they really thread off? Counterclockwise?

I believe those nuts are the originals that were on it when I bought the Thor Class-A new in 2016.

Hints?

[knucklehead]

Originally Posted by lmichel

Well, actually, I can get them to turn about a 16th.
Is there a secret to getting the simulator nuts off?
I know that the ones with the little dimples are the real ones.
There are two per rear wheel (235/80R22.5). I've really jammed one of them up TIGHT! Doing the other three carefully, I can get them to move just a crack and no more. I can then go back the other way and get them to crack back. Repeating this process at least a dozen times (with PB Blaster) doesn't seem to gain me any ground. I forced the first one and now it won't move either way. I'm using the special tool and a 16" pipe and I really think if I put anymore on it, something will break - maybe even the weld on the special "T" tool!
Do they really thread off? Counterclockwise?

I believe those nuts are the originals that were on it when I bought the Thor Class-A new in 2016.

Hints?

Not sure about yours but I have a 2018 Thor Windsport 29m with 19.5" wheels and my hubcaps have 3 lugs with dimples and if you have to use a 1/2" socket wrench; it will come off one way or another. It must if you ever want to service that wheel so GO FOR IT!!!! Bob Trice

[lmichel]

Originally Posted by knucklehead

Not sure about yours but I have a 2018 Thor Windsport 29m with 19.5" wheels and my hubcaps have 3 lugs with dimples and if you have to use a 1/2" socket wrench; it will come off one way or another. It must if you ever want to service that wheel so GO FOR IT!!!! Bob Trice

Oh I have a 1/2" drive breaker bar, but not a socket big enough for the simulator cover. I guess what you're saying is that they are threaded and standard counterclockwise to back 'em off. I just didn't want to go for it and end up stripping the lug or something.. I'll have to caliper the size and order the socket for them I guess..

Thanks!

[lmichel]

Originally Posted by lmichel

Oh I have a 1/2" drive breaker bar, but not a socket big enough for the simulator cover. I guess what you're saying is that they are threaded and standard counterclockwise to back 'em off. I just didn't want to go for it and end up stripping the lug or something.. I'll have to caliper the size and order the socket for them I guess..
Thanks!

Well, I went for it. And as expected, the force of the impact wrench split all the thin aluminum covers off the nut insert. But they're off and I can get on with installing the rear sumo springs.

[macdaddy1111]

Originally Posted by lmichel

Well, I went for it. And as expected, the force of the impact wrench split all the thin aluminum covers off the nut insert. But they're off and I can get on with installing the rear sumo springs.

Messing in around in the RV and found the hub nut T wrench in draw, figure I would test out what I read on this form.

Popped lug off with the slits in it, nice an rusty in there! Wonder if yours were rusted shut.

Project this week to take them off and wire brush and lube them all!

[Hooligan2]

They left out the part about using these pliers to pull (not Screw) the dimpled caps off the hubcap nuts. The non-dimpled caps are part of the hubcap... and cover the lug nuts.