Generator or propane

[Chance]

3-way Norcold are still listed, but don’t seem as common to me as they were. When supplying heat at 12 Volts it takes a lot of current; in the order of 15 Amps or so.

They are more expensive, so it’s possible Laco’s upscale motorhome may very well have one.

[Laco]

Originally Posted by Thehobe1

WOW! Be careful of what you say. I just purchased a 2017 Thor Vegas 25.2 and found out that the refrigerator is only 2-Way, 110 VAC or Propane. I was very surprised to see this but you will need to look up the refrigerator's model number and then look it up on the internet.
Norcold For N61X/N81X models: 6/8 cu.ft., 2-way, R.V. refrigerators. If you do not believe me, look it up!

I did say most, meaning not all. I certainly believe you. The only real consistency in RV's, is the inconsistency. Even though mine is three way, I never use the 12 volt option, since its wired to the inverter, so it just stays on 120 volts, unless I change it.

[Laco]

Chance, I hadn't ever thought of my Gemini as upscale, seems fairly basic, which led me to believe most of the newer Norcolds were three way. The fact is they consume a very small amount of propane when run that way, and for years in our former DP that's the way we ran it while underway. Since this one is wired to the inverter (added on) I just let it run on 120 Volts while underway, and let the alternator replace the battery current that it consumes. I like easy!!!!

[Chance]

Laco, I like easy also. In your case you “may” be able to save a little 12-Volt power by eliminating the inverter inefficiency since it’s fed from 12-Volts, but since inverters are so efficient, it won’t make much difference anyway — maybe a few Amps which your alternator should handle easily. I say “may” because specs show a different amount of power on 110 AC versus 12 VDC. It’s so small that’s it’s not worth worrying about.

In any case I agree with most of you and wouldn’t run a generator just to power the fridge. If the generator was being run anyway, that’s different.

Personally, for smaller rigs, I like the newer 12-Volt compressor refrigerators that use very little power. Many Class Bs have gone that route and eliminated propane for compact fridge.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Another trick if you have room is to put "blue ice" packs in freezer when plugged in. Move them to fridge, packed around sensitive items (beer and milk). they will extend the life of your cool as long as you don't open it. Keep in mind, it takes 10 times longer for that fridge to cool down once plugged back in than a residential model. You can also move a few things into coolers during the non-powered leg of the trip.

[DonKarstedt]

For me, it depends on the weather. In the summer, I use the generator because I'm likely to need that running for the AC to cool the house anyway. In the winter, propane, because I'd probably have the gas furnace going.

[gmc]

'2 way' fridge - 110/propane with 12v control board.
Coach battery switch in USE... Fridge on AUTO.
Runs on propane when no 110v present.
If I happen to start the genny for other reasons it will detect the 110 and switch... then switch back when genny goes off...
If I can plug in it will detect the 110 and switch... then switch back when unplugged...
OFF at gas stations or other restricted areas.

Pretty simple I think...

[Bob Denman]

Yup...
Keep it simple! !

[Travelin' Texans]

Turn fridge to "auto" make sure propane supply opened & forget it.
Of all the rvs on the road with rv absorption fridges (those with residential fridges don't count) I'd bet there's maybe 1 in a 100 that aren't running the fridge on propane while traveling, which is exactly what it was designed to do.

[Thehobe1]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

Turn fridge to "auto" make sure propane supply opened & forget it.
Of all the rvs on the road with rv absorption fridges (those with residential fridges don't count) I'd bet there's maybe 1 in a 100 that aren't running the fridge on propane while traveling, which is exactly what it was designed to do.

I AGREE. The little flame from Propane on my 2017 Vegas is TOTALLY enclosed unlike my previous RV that was a little less than fully closed. It must be getting oxygen from somewhere however. I am not concerned, even at gas stations, unless I can smell gasoline fumes in the air.

Also, I see no reason to ever run the absorption fridge on anything but gas because the usage is so low. The flame is about the same as the older home hot water heaters that were typically placed commonly in the garage!

[bglanning85]

What about a residential sized fridge? I have a Four Winds and it has a full size fridge. Will the Inverter keep it on while driving - or do you have to run the generator. Pretty much the only thing I still have to figure out! :-D

[petefoss]

It will run off the inverter which will be powered by the chassis alternator via 12V system

[TurnerFam]

when not on generator or shore power, sure, your fridge will work just fine off the Inverter, which is exactly what the inverter is designed for - to use the battery power when you have no external incoming power.

The inverter simply provides regular 120v power to some/all outlets within your coach, nothing that doesn't 'plug in' to an outlet receives power from the inverter, those other items like air conditioners and electric water heater get their power only when you have generator or shore power.

While driving, the vehicle's Alternator provides some charging to the batteries...
When parked, the generator or shore power provides charging to the batteries...
otherwise, the Inverter does it's job and sends battery power to your 120v outlets, for the fridge and anything else that the Inverter is wired to power. Some coaches have only the fridge on the inverter, some have additional outlets, and some have ALL outlets, like ours.

[The Gritz Carlton]

That's an interesting point. During my walk through, the tech said the only thing working from the inverter is the fridge. I beg to differ but he may be right. I will get my tester and check every receptacle to see. Some have said one or all of the TV's might be in the inverter loop. If he is correct, I may consider my first mod. Running another 110 outlet from inverter to the overhead entertainment center so that TV will work while driving and not have to run generator just for TV or while watching TV at quick lunch stops, etc.

[Thehobe1]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

when not on generator or shore power, sure, your fridge will work just fine off the Inverter, which is exactly what the inverter is designed for - to use the battery power when you have no external incoming power.

The inverter simply provides regular 120v power to some/all outlets within your coach, nothing that doesn't 'plug in' to an outlet receives power from the inverter, those other items like air conditioners and electric water heater get their power only when you have generator or shore power.

While driving, the vehicle's Alternator provides some charging to the batteries...
When parked, the generator or shore power provides charging to the batteries...
otherwise, the Inverter does it's job and sends battery power to your 120v outlets, for the fridge and anything else that the Inverter is wired to power. Some coaches have only the fridge on the inverter, some have additional outlets, and some have ALL outlets, like ours.

You bring up a very good point: Why don't the RV manuals for each particular RV setup, tell you if the fridge is powered by the inverter circuit or where to install an added inverter (like I did) so that it can be used to power the refrigerator circuit. I added a true sine wave inverter to my Vegas 25.2 so that I could watch TV without shore power and have a couple of outlets available for misc needs.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Hobe...exactly my plan. I have an 1800W true sin I haven't used for years since I sold truck camper. I think I will install it for TV's and not tap into coach system at all. Would work for a quick pot of coffee in a rest area as well.

[nmlferreira]

Hi All,

I'm a late comer to this discussion, but it appears this helped clarify my question: How do I keep my fridge running while driving?
I have a Norcold N61X and after reading the manual it looks clear to me that this fridge only works with propane OR 120 VAC.
The only use of 12 VDC is for the control functions.
My only worry is driving with the propane on. Some mention that in tunnels you "shouldn't" do it and someone also mentioned gas stations because of the flame. But if I understand correctly the risk is minimum and one should turn the fridge on with propane and not worry about it.
I just want to finish by saying it is interesting that the manual refers to "Operation during travel" in relation to performance in unleveled roads, but I didn't find anything about use of propane while driving or use of alternative power supplies (generator, battery).

[Muggs]

We routinely run fridge in Auto and haVA not had any issues. The temp setting on is 5 and 4 when parked. I turn it off on gas stops. We also keep 6 frozen water bottles in freezer as insurance.

I added an inverter 650 watt for tv/video/bluray and charging stuff. We use it when dash a/c can keep coach cool.

[Bob Denman]

On our trip over Memorial Day weekend: we had the rig plugged in at home for a couple of days, with the Fridge set to run on electricity.
Before leaving for the trip: we manually switched it over to propane for the drive up there (about three and a half hours...).
Once there: we switched it back over to electricity, once we plugged into shore power...
Everything stayed nice and cold, and it gave me a chance to push some buttons!

[Beau388]

I might mention that on my coach the frig control board is on the same circuit (fuse) at the propane leak detector. The frig light still comes on even if the store/use switch is in the store position and auto is selected on the frig. Seems like a good idea to me.