Low Voltage to levelers and Slides have no power

[Ericd417]

I have a 2007 Four Winns Hurrican. My levelers are not working and say low voltage, and my slide-outs won't work either.

I have replaced my central brain to the engine with all the fuses, reset fuses, but still nothing.

Help?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Ericd417

I have a 2007 Four Winns Hurrican. My levelers are not working and say low voltage, and my slide-outs won't work either.

I have replaced my central brain to the engine with all the fuses, reset fuses, but still nothing.

Help?

WTHeck is that?

Levelers and slides work with power from HOUSE batteries. What's the status of your house batteries and your battery disconnect (USE/STORE) switch?

[Bob Denman]

I agree with Ted: it seems that your house batteries are low on power.
hook up to shore power (Or a 12 volt charger), and give them a nice long drink of the good stuff!

[lwmcguire]

What is the voltage before and after at the hydraulic pump?

[Judge]

This sounds like the classic 100A Bussman breaker near the house battery compartment being tripped, which usually provides power to the Levelers and Slides.

[Bob Denman]

But he's getting a "low voltage" message...
So at least some power is there.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

But he's getting a "low voltage" message...
So at least some power is there.

Actually..... when I had a bad pressure sensor for my levelers on my Outlaw, it tripped the breaker from the motor running too long once the jacks were reteacted and the display said Low Voltage as soon as it tripped the breaker.

The display gets it power from a separate circuit than the leveler motor.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for that clarification: I stand corrected...

[Lt Keefer]

If the levelers work off the house battery, why does the engine have to be running for them to work?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

If the levelers work off the house battery, why does the engine have to be running for them to work?

It doesn't. But the levelers have to see at least 13.7 VDC or you get the "low voltage" warning. Running the engine gets them at least that much voltage.

For example: My MH is in the driveway getting readu for a 2 week trip next week. It's level in the driveway so the levelers aren't deployed.

I decided to install a Volt/Ammeter for the chassis battery using an induction pickup on the battery's ground cable. Of course the pickup won't fit over the battery end so I had to get under the MH to get to the engine ground terminal.

So with the MH plugged into SP, I turned the ignition key to the accessory position and ran the levelers to lift the front end so I could slide under there on my creeper. I didn't start the engine and I had no "low voltage" warning as the converter was supplying the required voltage to both battery banks.

[Ericd417]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

WTHeck is that?

Levelers and slides work with power from HOUSE batteries. What's the status of your house batteries and your battery disconnect (USE/STORE) switch?

House batteries are new.

[Bob Denman]

If those are new batteries: are you sure that the connections are tight?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Ericd417

House batteries are new.

One more time, slooower:

You said "I have replaced my central brain to the engine"

I asked: "WTHeck is that?" In other words; what the heck are you calling the central brain to the engine and what does it have to do with batteries? Also, how do you "reset" fuses?

[TurnerFam]

- leveling controllers and slides controllers get their POWER from the chassis, which is why you are either locked-out from using them while the engine key is 'on', or why you may actually HAVE to have the key 'on'... different strokes for different manufacturers.
The controllers only require a small amount of 12v power, to simply provide the 12v 'signal' to the actual MOTORS for the Hydraulics and Slides.

The Hydraulics and Slides themselves, though, draw a LOT of 12v power from the batteries, and therefore is why they typically get power from the HOUSE batteries - which are better designed to provide power for a consistent power draw while these motors are working. Otherwise you might easily sap your chassis battery(s) if it was the other way around. Then you'd be up the creek.

Since these motors draw a lot of 'amperage', they also have bus breakers/fuse breakers between them and the house batteries. When this breaker trips, you may lose power to the motors themselves, but your controllers would STILL have power from the chassis - which causes the confusion.

It's similar to your 12v lights and fans and thermostat, etc., as they draw power from the batteries and can work even when you don't have 120v shore power, yet the air conditioner that the thermostat controls will still have NOT power when you are not plugged in, even if you turn the thermostat on.

Our motorhomes are made for us to be mobile, and therefore there are a lot of 'power' options at work, for various and important reasons.


As for the slides and hydraulics, the main reason the controllers are not powered by the same HOUSE batteries is due to safety measures - keeping us from running out the slides by accidentally pushing a slide button while traveling, or running down the levelers while moving. The IGNITION and TRANSMISSION switch are the safety measures, only providing those 12v controllers with power either while the ignition is 'on', or only when it's 'off', but never when it's actually IN GEAR.

My Palazzo has a safety lock-out for the slides - neither will work at all if the key is in the 'on' position. Makes sense, though there are aggravating times when I've cranked the engine to let it warm up, only to remember that now I have to cut it back off to run in the slides, OR the awning.
My Palazzo also have a safety lock-out EMERGENCY 'retract' of the hydraulics IF you put the running engine into GEAR. ALARMS and BELLS go OFF! And, conveniently, the hydraulics RETRACT themselves! Now, it's alarming the first time it happens to you, as we can all remember a time we've decided to leave only to find out that we forgot to bring up the levelers. All is well, as the manufacturers know our forgetfulness and build in these automated safety measures.
Interestingly, as many say that you 'must' have the engine RUNNING in order to either retract or extend the hydraulics, I find that this is not necessarily true for all motorhomes, but really serves as the factory's way of helping to make sure you have enough 12v 'power' to extend or retract the legs without worry. But, if you simply turn the ignition 'on', you can still use the controller, although you may have to use the 'MANUAL mode' to bypass the 'low voltage' alert. It's never been an issue for me, I do it this way all the time, especially when you simply need to 'tweek' one pair of legs to better level the coach once you've deployed the slides.

One thing I'd like the factories to consider is the ability to add a simply 'second' button to override the ignition lockout feature(where you much press BOTH at the same time!) - giving the owner the option to operate these items even if the engine is running, or is not running, etc. such as when you forgot to bring in the awning before you cranked up, or maybe if you realize that you've already left the campground with your slide still out!
These 'second buttons' are designed and used in industry all the time, to keep a large machinery operator from accidentally taking off a finger or hand while operating a machine that otherwise is made to bend or brake or cut metal, etc. Two buttons mean that it's hard to 'accidentally' push a button at the wrong time, and certainly cuts down on the 'hazards' that it might otherwise allow!

[Lt Keefer]

My jacks will not operate without the engine running and the parking brake set.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

- leveling controllers and slides controllers get their POWER from the chassis,

That is not the case on every coach. I have a 100A Bussman Breaker off my house batteries that connects to and powers the levelers. If I trip the 100A Bussman (which sis connected directly to the house batteries), I will get a Low Voltage Error on the Leveler Display.

However, my coach also has to be running to use the levelers. It has a BIM so when the engine is running, the BIM attaches the chassis batteries to the house batteries so the alternator can charge / boost them since the levelers draw a significant amount of power.

[MJC62]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

My jacks will not operate without the engine running and the parking brake set.

Ours operate the same. Though I have never just kicked the key to on and tried to operate the jacks. I will have to try for shots and giggles next time.

We now return to our regular program. How is the OP doing with his problem?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Ericd417

House batteries are new.

doesn't matter. new batteries can go dead or low.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by MJC62

Ours operate the same. Though I have never just kicked the key to on and tried to operate the jacks. I will have to try for shots and giggles next time.

We now return to our regular program. How is the OP doing with his problem?

The levelers will work with the key in the "Run" position (and parking brake set) and the engine not running. However, you could end up with the Low Voltage alarm if the house batteries are too low and the chassis battery can't provide enough boost without the alternator providing additional power.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

- leveling controllers and slides controllers get their POWER from the chassis, which is why you are either locked-out from using them while the engine key is 'on', or why you may actually HAVE to have the key 'on'... different strokes for different manufacturers.
The controllers only require a small amount of 12v power, to simply provide the 12v 'signal' to the actual MOTORS for the Hydraulics and Slides.

The Hydraulics and Slides themselves, though, draw a LOT of 12v power from the batteries, and therefore is why they typically get power from the HOUSE batteries - which are better designed to provide power for a consistent power draw while these motors are working. Otherwise you might easily sap your chassis battery(s) if it was the other way around. Then you'd be up the creek.

Since these motors draw a lot of 'amperage', they also have bus breakers/fuse breakers between them and the house batteries. When this breaker trips, you may lose power to the motors themselves, but your controllers would STILL have power from the chassis - which causes the confusion.

It's similar to your 12v lights and fans and thermostat, etc., as they draw power from the batteries and can work even when you don't have 120v shore power, yet the air conditioner that the thermostat controls will still have NOT power when you are not plugged in, even if you turn the thermostat on.

Our motorhomes are made for us to be mobile, and therefore there are a lot of 'power' options at work, for various and important reasons.


As for the slides and hydraulics, the main reason the controllers are not powered by the same HOUSE batteries is due to safety measures - keeping us from running out the slides by accidentally pushing a slide button while traveling, or running down the levelers while moving. The IGNITION and TRANSMISSION switch are the safety measures, only providing those 12v controllers with power either while the ignition is 'on', or only when it's 'off', but never when it's actually IN GEAR.

My Palazzo has a safety lock-out for the slides - neither will work at all if the key is in the 'on' position. Makes sense, though there are aggravating times when I've cranked the engine to let it warm up, only to remember that now I have to cut it back off to run in the slides, OR the awning.
My Palazzo also have a safety lock-out EMERGENCY 'retract' of the hydraulics IF you put the running engine into GEAR. ALARMS and BELLS go OFF! And, conveniently, the hydraulics RETRACT themselves! Now, it's alarming the first time it happens to you, as we can all remember a time we've decided to leave only to find out that we forgot to bring up the levelers. All is well, as the manufacturers know our forgetfulness and build in these automated safety measures.
Interestingly, as many say that you 'must' have the engine RUNNING in order to either retract or extend the hydraulics, I find that this is not necessarily true for all motorhomes, but really serves as the factory's way of helping to make sure you have enough 12v 'power' to extend or retract the legs without worry. But, if you simply turn the ignition 'on', you can still use the controller, although you may have to use the 'MANUAL mode' to bypass the 'low voltage' alert. It's never been an issue for me, I do it this way all the time, especially when you simply need to 'tweek' one pair of legs to better level the coach once you've deployed the slides.

One thing I'd like the factories to consider is the ability to add a simply 'second' button to override the ignition lockout feature(where you much press BOTH at the same time!) - giving the owner the option to operate these items even if the engine is running, or is not running, etc. such as when you forgot to bring in the awning before you cranked up, or maybe if you realize that you've already left the campground with your slide still out!
These 'second buttons' are designed and used in industry all the time, to keep a large machinery operator from accidentally taking off a finger or hand while operating a machine that otherwise is made to bend or brake or cut metal, etc. Two buttons mean that it's hard to 'accidentally' push a button at the wrong time, and certainly cuts down on the 'hazards' that it might otherwise allow!

Great Summary!